TOURS

You'll save money, your experience will be less structured, and your mobility increased if you take on the island independently. An organized tour, however, enables you to quickly see what Bali has to offer. Then you may decide to go back and experience in depth what you enjoyed most. In nearly every case, it's possible to do some independent touring before and after your tour.
     Contact the Indonesian embassy or consulate in your home country for tour companies specializing in Bali. In Indonesia, any of the regional tourist offices can help you select the right tour company (see "Information and Services," later in this chapter).
     There's a wide range of guided tour activities to choose from: volcano-climbing, bicycling, skin diving, snorkeling, sunbathing, hiking, shopping, attending festivals, visiting temples, exploring the island's archaeological remains, or systematically visiting Bali's arts and crafts centers. On cultural tours, if silverware, woodcarving, and souvenir shops aren't your interest, don't let the guide stop in too many. These stops serve only to fatten the pockets of the guides and drivers.
     Tour agencies lining the streets and lanes of Kuta, Legian, Candidasa, Ubud, and Lovina offer fixed-departure tours for a set price, usually for six to 12 people. The Denpasar and each regency government tourist office, as well as the tour desks at larger hotels, are always ready to advise you about specialized tours.
     The success of a tour depends largely on the experience and knowledge of the guide leading it. Tours are conducted by English-speaking guides unless tour participants request guides speaking other foreign languages (French, German, Japanese, Chinese). Tours often start from the agency's head office, though many also pick up participants at their hotels, homestays, or in front of well-known landmarks.
     The price depends primarily on the type of transport used, the number of people in your group, and the length of your tour. Most only run if there are at least four people, so if one operator can't run the tour you want when you want it, just check out the next place. Most take in sights along the way and the tour lasts all day. Tour participants may alter/modify the tour by pitching in and paying extra. For example, from Penelokan down to the crater floor costs an extra Rp5000 per person on the Kintamani Volcano Tour.

TOUR GUIDES

Independent Tour Guides
There are two kinds of guides. Freelance, unofficial guides or touts, pushing tourist-oriented businesses and hanging around Bali's airport, the bus/bemo stations, and ferry terminals. Though they can be quite forward and persistent at times, you don't necessarily have to be paranoid about these men or boys who volunteer their services. They could actually save you a lot of trouble, footwork, and even money if you learn how to work with them and if you are able to sense the good ones from the bad.
     Be open. Guides could lead you to a new accommodation that's really eager to please, may offer discounts to a hotel that wants to attract new clientele, or could help you get transport or performance tickets. Their fee, tacked to the base price—if not ridiculously high—might be worth it.
     The same thing goes for self-appointed, multilingual guides who attach themselves to you at the base of volcanoes and at entrances to temples and museums. These contacts could lead to fresh insights and even exciting experiences. Local guides are a part of the color of a new place. These characters seem to have friends everywhere, might work for a tour company on the side, and have an uncle who will sell you wayang puppets for a special price.
     Then there are the officially sanctioned guides who supposedly have been professionally trained. These 300 "registered" guides, belonging to the Bali Guide Association, speak either English, Japanese, German, French, or Mandarin in addition to Indonesian and their own regional tongue. Their services cost more than volunteer guides. You'll meet one of these certified guides if you join a local tour. The most talented know the best stopovers for snacks or modern amenities, can take you to places seldom visited, explain landmarks, put you in touch with the local people.
     But the government regulation as to who can qualify as a registered guide is highly restrictive. Only people with money can afford to register, and thus they jack up the prices to cover their official fees. Moreover, not all these registered guides get high marks. Some demand fees from art shops and restaurants for delivering tourists; others pocket expenses that were promised as part of your tour price.
     Sometimes it's better to employ a nonprofessional, family-style guide, particularly if you're coming for only 10 days or so, don't want to be in a group tour cocoon, and would like to expedite matters so as not to have to find out everything on your own without getting ripped off. The price freelancers charge often winds up being cheaper than most tour agencies. A good place to start inquiring about a personalized guide is with your homestay or hotel owner.
     One of Bali's best known guides is also one of its best dancers. Cokorda Istri Ratih Iryani (Jl. Nangka 93, Denpasar, tel. 0361-91245) exemplifies a grassroots guide service. After getting input from you, she'll give you an overview of what you might like to do and how you might like to go about doing it. She'll tell you which performances to avoid and which to see; she'll arrange for a car and, if necessary, a driver who speaks Japanese. Ratih can get you discounts at hotels, arrange overnight trips, introduce you to highly regarded dancers, healers, and sculptors.

Local Tour Operators
There are pages of travel/tour operators listed in the most current Bali phone book under Travel Bureaus. The most ubiquitous agency—the traveler's agency—is Perama Tourist Service, Jl. Legian Kuta (tel. 0361-751551, 751875, or 751170, fax 751170) with offices in Ubud, Candidasa, Padangbai, Lovina, Kintamani, Bedugul, and Sanur. Get ahold of their latest brochure listing all their addresses and phone numbers. Perama now have large, new coaches heading for all parts of Bali. In Ubud, pick-up is at major hotels and locations, especially along Monkey Forest Road. Perama also offers land-sea adventures and cultural tours to Lombok and beyond using modified Bugis pinisi schooners.
     Established in 1988 by an experienced Balinese group, Nagasari Tours and Travel (102 Jl. Danau Tamblingan, Sanur, Bali 80227, tel. 0361-288096, fax 289285, e-mail nagasari@dps.mega.net.id) provides services, in Bali and throughout Indonesia, ranging from economy itineraries to deluxe packages, but always with the same emphasis on originality and efficiency. For special-interest groups of for individual travelers, Nagasari can arrange for natural history, cultural, spiritual, or just plain relaxing vacations. Rates are competitive and service is excellent.
     Established in 1984, experienced and professional Nusa Dua Bali Tours and Travel, Jl. Bypass, 300 B, Box 3419, Denpasar 80034, tel. (0361) 51-223, fax 52-779, organizes both packaged programs and first-class tours. The company features competitive rates, excellent service, and a consistently high standard of accommodations and guides. Nusa Dua has cut its teeth in the business by catering to demanding and discriminating European clients.
     Natrabu has more than 34 years of experience in leading tours. Its U.S. headquarters can be reached at (800) 628-7228 (U.S. and Canada), fax (415) 362-0531. Award-winning Vayatours Inc., tel. (800) 999-8292 (U.S. and Canada), fax (213) 487-0838, one of Indonesia's largest tour companies, staffs a sales office in North America at 6420 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 420, Los Angeles, CA 90048, tel. (213) 655-3851.
     A reliable operator is PT Bali Avia Ltd., P.O. Box 1094, Ngurah Rai Airport, Tuban 80361 (tel. 0361-751257, 755840, or 752282, fax 752282 or 75333. They offer the "Sasak Traditional Tour," which takes in the sights and culture of the Sasaks of Lombok, as well as tours to Borobudur, Yogya, Torajaland, and Mt. Bromo in East Java.
     Tunas Indonesia Tours & Travel, Jl. D. Tamblingan 107, Sanur (tel. 0361-288450 or 288581) and in the Hotel Bali Beach in Sanur (tel. 0361-288056), specialize in wildlife and adventure tours to Komodo, Baluran (East Java), Kalimantan. They also do daily air-conditioned coach tours of Bali.
     Grand Komodo, Jl. Bypass, Sanur, Bali (tel. 0361-287166, fax 287165), sells three and four-day packages to Sumbawa and Komodo with scheduled departures. Also ask them about other adventure packages to Irian Jaya (Baliem Valley), Flores (Gunung Kelimutu), and Lombok (climbing Gunung Rinjani). Tours start at about US$275, including accommodations with all meals, transfers, and English-speaking guide. Price doesn't include airfare and laundry.
     Other reputable, locally based companies: PT Motive Bali Tours & Travel, Jl. Bypass 21, Sanur (tel. 0361-289018 or 286248, fax 289018); PT Gloria Bali Jaya Tours, Jl. Raya Krobokan (tel. 0361-730272 or 730273, fax 730273); Nagasari Tours & Travel, Jl. D. Tamblingan 102, Sanur (tel. 0361-288096, fax 289285); Media Tour, Jl. Kartika, P.O. Box 1008, Tuban (tel. 0361-753556, fax 753555). Catering to demanding Europeans, the most efficient Bali-based operator I ever worked with is PT Nusa Dua Bali Tours & Travel, Jl. Bypass 300 B, P.O. Box 419, Denpasar 80001, tel. (0361) 751223, fax 752779.
     Elderhostel Indonesia is an organization serving the travel needs of mature adults. It leads various three-week study tours in Java, Bali, and Sulawesi. The emphasis varies depending on the location, but academics are always stressed. Contact address in Bali is Agung Dewaputra, Elderhostel Indonesia, Puri Kapal, Peliatan, Ubud (tel. 0361-975180, fax 975162).
     Another educational outing is the "Bali Archaeological Tour" offered by Santa Bali Tours & Travel, Grand Bali Beach Hotel, Sanur (tel. 0361-287628 or 288057, fax 236508), which takes in sites including Pura Durga Kutri, the Royal Temple of Bedulu Kingdom, Gunung Kawi, and Pejeng, which departs at 0830 and returns at 1630, for US$37.50 (lunch included).
     The art lover, dancer, and spirit quester should get in touch with Bali Living Arts, 8600 East Alameda No. 17106, Denver, CO 80231, which caters to such specialized clientele that the result is a smaller, more focused, and more spontaneous group experience. You get 18 days of yoga on secluded atoll beaches, study of Balinese culture and language, participation in a full moon ceremony, an inner-island cruise, snorkeling, hiking, relaxation. Trip leader is Marya Mann, gypsy yogini, Ph.D. artist, dreamweaver, and world dancer. Call (303) 355-3278 or (800) 641-Bali, or fax (303) 757-8287.

Overseas-Based Tour Operators
The Big Three Indonesian companies represented in North America are: PT Garuda Orient Holidays (tel. 800-665-2254 in the U.S. and Canada, fax 604-736-7154), the tour arm of the Indonesian national carrier Garuda Indonesian Airlines; Natrabu (tel. 800-628-7228 in the U.S. and Canada, fax 415-362-0531), an Indonesian travel agency with more than 33 years experience; and Vayatour (tel. 800-999-8292 in the U.S. and Canada, fax 213-487-0838), one of Indonesia's largest tour companies. All sell tour and accommodation packages on Bali. Call the Indonesian Tourist Promotion Office (tel. 213-387-2078, fax 380-4876) in Los Angeles for a complete list.
     Since they believe that Bali is too commercialized, Danu Enterprises is taking their clients to more and more out of the way places. The founders, American Judy Slattum and Balinese I Made Surya, have conducted high quality, personalized tours since 1980. The instructor of their Yoga tour to Bali, Ann Barros, teaches the lyengar tradition. Their new "Healing Arts" tour to Bali has been especially popular, and their "Discover the Back Roads" of Bali is designed for trekkers and water-sport enthusiasts. This trip includes in-depth seminars in Balinese history, language, culture, and religion with Made, the founder of Bali's mountain climbing club. The price US$2850 includes the 14-day tour, roundtrip air on Singapore Airlines, two meals a day, accommodations in small, locally owned bungalows, and five days in Bali's only Hindu ashram. For more details, contact Danu at P.O. Box 156, Capitola, CA 95010 or call/fax (408) 476-0543. A first-class outfit. Their office in Bali is at Jl. Kepundung, Gang XII No. 1, Denpasar 80231.
     Backroads (1516 5th St., Suite PR, Berkeley, CA 94710-1740, tel. 800-462-2848 in the U.S. or 510-527-1555) sells a nine-day walking vacation that takes in Lake Bratan, the lower flanks of Gunung Agung, a rafting expedition on the Ayung River, performances, open-air markets, local arts and craft shops, swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, first-class meals and accommodations, and the services of highly trained professional guides. Backroads also offers cyclists two to 17 day excursions with daily mileage options, maps, catered meals, directions, and van support (see "Bicycling," under "Getting Around").
     Naropa Institute (2130 Arapahoe Ave., Boulder, CO 80302, tel. 303-444-0202), America's only Buddhist university, sponsors a Study Abroad program in Bali which runs from mid-January to mid-March, combining classes in meditation, Balinese gamelan and the Indonesian language, discussion groups on Bali's arts and culture, field trips, attendance at performances and ceremonies, and independent research projects. A 50-minute video on the US$3800 program is available.
     Passport to Indonesia Inc., 2731 Tucker Lane, Los Alamitos, CA 90720, tel. (800) 303-9646, offers personalized tours for independent travelers as well as walking and cultural tours of Bali. Archaeological Tours, 271 Madison Ave., Ste. 904, New York, NY 10016, tel. (212) 986-3054, specializes in high-end cultural and educational tours.
     In Britain, Bales, Bales House, Junction Rd., Dorking, Surrey RH4 3HB, tel. 01306-885991, sells tours to Bali from around £1000. Also check out Earthwatch Europe, Belsyre Ct., 57 Woodstock Rd., Oxford OX2 6Hu, tel. 01865-311600, which hosts ethnological tours of south-central Bali. Hayes & Jarvis, Hayes House, 152 King St., London W6 OQU, tel. 0181-746-5050, gives holiday tours to Bali. Thomas Cook Holidays, P.O. Box 36, Thorpe Wood, Peterborough PE3 6SB, tel. 01733-332255, offers hotel-based holiday tours to south Bali and the Ubud area.

Warning
Most operators are reliable, but watch the budget-priced, fly-by-night outfits. They will tell you anything: that you'll get all your cold drinks free, that all entrance fees are included, and even promise you lunch—but then you'll end up paying for everything! Exploiting your ignorance of the island's upcountry attractions, drivers or guides may try to pocket all these expenses and not report it to their superiors. For example, your tour leader might not offer to take you inside Klungkung's Kerta Gosa, telling you that the beautiful detailed paintings can be appreciated from the outside. Not so.
     These outfits could also keep you waiting until about 1500 or 1430 before they take time to stop for lunch; then they'll take you into a tourist restaurant where you have to pay Rp7500 for a simple nasi goreng. Just tell them that you want to go to a warung instead, and take all your friends with you! Don't forget that you are the clients; they should respond to what you want from your tour. You can bargain with the guide and driver to modify the tour, pay extra (which they can pocket) to take you way out of the way. Be creative.

SAMPLE LOCAL TOURS

Full-day excursions (seven to 10 hours) range from Rp25,000 to Rp55,000. The most expensive are offered by international starred hotel establishments which charge up to Rp200,000 per day, with prices always in U.S. dollars. Stick to tours recommended by your friends and people you trust.
     Look for the unusual. Trips to the south emphasize the shoreline and beachlife, trips to the center the historic classical monuments, trips to the north vault the volcanic mountain range to the coast of north Bali, and trips to the east and west tend to cover the more isolated parts of the island. Often a kris, fire, or tourist trance dance in Batubulan or Bona is thrown in, and the bus could stop at one too many temples on the way—unless you request otherwise. You can get templed-out real fast after your third or so temple, no matter how unique or beautiful it is.
     Here are some samples of typical day tours that can easily be arranged by most hotels and travel agents. The Volcano Tour, in one form or the other, passes through Batubulan, Celuk, Batuan, Mas, Ubud, Bedulu, Tampaksiring, and Penelokan to Kintamani. For those who are staying for just a short while, this one is a good introduction to the natural beauty of the island, and you'll be exposed to a wide range of arts and crafts. One-day tours out of Ubud, for example, run Rp15,000-25,000 per person.
     The Besakih Tour passes through Batubulan and Celuk, then usually continues east to Klungkung. From here the tour heads north through Bukit Jambul to Besakih. The Tanah Lot Tour follows the main road to the northwest from Denpasar, then branches off at Kediri through the rural countryside to reach the coast opposite the small islet on which the temple of Tanah Lot is situated. The Bedugul Tour heads northwest from Denpasar to the regional capital of Tabanan, then passes through rising rice country to the lakeside resort of Bedugul. The City Tour takes in the Art Centre, The Bali Museum, and Denpasar market.
     Also offered are two-night, three-day budget group tours in the Rp250,000 range. The first day you visit Celuk, Mas, Ubud, Bedulu, Klungkung, Kusamba, Tenganan, Bukit Jambul, Besakih, Bangli, Penelokan. The second day Kintamani, Penulisan, Kumbutambahan, Air Sanih, Singaraja, Lovina Beach. The third day Gitgit, Bedugal, Mengwi, Tanah Lot, Sangeh, then return to your hotel. Book three days in advance. Donations and accommodations not included in the price. A group can easily design other tours to anyplace in Bali.

BALI BY AIR

Something different and extravagant, this tour offers stunning views over rice fields, rivers, seaweed farms, coastline, jungle, and volcanoes poking through halos of white clouds. Bali Avia uses a new Bell 206B Jet Ranger helicopter to take two to four passengers on an aerial tour of Ubud, Bangli, Gunung Agung, Bali's eastern coast, Lake Bratan, Bedugul, Tanah Lot, Kuta, Besakih Temple, and Gunung Batur. Departures are from the helipad of Hotel Bali Beach at 0930 and 1030 daily (minimum two passengers). Cost is US$174 or US$375 for a half-hour flight. Call Bali Avia (tel. 0361-751257 or 752282) or Motive Bali (tel. 0361-89435, fax 89435). Other helicoptors used are Bell 412, Bell 212, BO 105, Piper Navajo, and Skyvans. Great photo ops. Free pick up and drop off.
     Wakalouka Land Cruises, Jl. Imam Bonjol 335 X (tel. 0361-227085 or 227067, fax 227067 or 426972), offers an unusual "Journey to the Secret Soul of Bali" which takes participants by Land Rover through grassy tracks and terraced rice fields to see a traditional gubuk farmhouse made of mud bricks, learn about fragrant spices, visit a mineral hot springs and an ancient quarry, and relax with a delicious lunch at the Wakalouka Rainforest Camp deep in a forest of giant bamboos. You are picked up at 0800 by Land Rover and returned to your hotel in an a/c minibus at around 1600. The price of US$83 includes all transfers, lunch, soft drinks, wine, and beer.

BALI BY SEA

Cruises The trouble with cruises is that passengers are able to stop for only three or four hours at some ports. The luxury and service, however, are undeniable. Swan Hellenic, 77 New Oxford St., London WC1A 1PP, tel. 0171-800-2300, organizes upmarket cruises to Bali. Orient Lines 38 Park St., London W1Y 3PF, tel. 0171-409-2500, calls at eastern Bali's port of Padangbai.
      Royal Cruise Line offers the "Golden Odyssey," departing Bangkok for Semarang, Yogyakarta, and Bali on its way to Hong Kong. Pearl Cruises offers "Bangkok, Bali and Beyond," with an itinerary including Jakarta, Semarang, and Bali. Royal Viking offers the "Jewels of the Orient" cruise aboard the Royal Viking Star, which departs Singapore and Bangkok for Bali. The Sea Goddess also calls on several Indonesian ports.
     After the style of the defunct Lindblad Explorer, P & O's four luxury catamaran ships ply regularly between Lombok, Komodo, Sumba, and Flores. Their four-star Bali Sea Dancer boasts first-class facilities and eminently qualified lecturers. Based in Bali, she does a three-day cruise to Badas, Sumbawa, and then on to Komodo National Park before returning to Bali. Small by cruise ship standards, they carry only 150 passengers housed in compact, a/c cabins. Each stop includes day trips, cultural tours, shopping opportunities, and a chance to explore marinelife with a dive master. The night's five-course dinners, with an excellent and reasonably priced wine list, are accompanied by live music, dancing, and an occasional show. The ship has a well-stocked lounge bar, swimming pool, library, gym, and a hospital. For the three-day cruise, prices start at US$450 per person. For details, contact P & O Spice Island Cruises, Jl. Padang Galak 25, Sanur, Denpasar (tel. 0361-286283, fax 286284), or check with a travel agent.
     PT Wisata Tirta Baruna, Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 300 B, P.O. Box 419, Denpasar 80001, Bali (tel. 0361-53820 or 51223, fax 53809 or 52779), sails to Indonesia's eastern islands from the port of Benoa. The first port of call are the Gilis off western Lombok, then Sumbawa Besar, Bima, Sabolan Island (West Flores), Komodo, and Sumba from where passengers fly back to Bali. Passengers who want to participate in the westward cruise (same content as above, but in the opposite direction from Sumba to Bali) must fly from Bali to Sumba to join the cruise. Cost is US$1498 d on A deck, US$1348 d on C deck. Price includes all meals, shore excursions, ground transfers, and airfare, but excludes beverages, alcohol, laundry, telephone calls, tips, and 15% service and tax. They have sales counters in many of southern Bali's most exclusive hotels; their cruises are approximately one-third the price of P & O-owned Spice Island Cruises.
     A Dutch company outfits magnificent Indonesian pinisi, which have not changed designs since the 18th century to modern safety specifications. Their eight-day cruise takes in Flores, Sumbawa, Komodo, Lombok, and Bali. Longer tours of two and a half weeks to a month follow Russel's footsteps and sail the whole length of Sulawesi, all of Maluku, Irian Jaya—truly an oceangoing company. The scenery is excellent, and the traditional Indonesian food prepared by an Indonesian chef is better quality than at most Indonesian restaurants and warung. Contact Sea Trek, Keizersgracht 463, 1017 DK, Amsterdam (tel. 31-20-62-72078, fax 31-20-42-20153), or PT Oceana Tirta Wisata, Jl. Bypass 78 XX, Sanur 80228, Bali (tel. 0361-288892, fax 288652).

Boat Tours
The oldest continually operating ship in the world—older than the Statue of Liberty—is the 115-year-old gaff-rigged ketch Golden Hawk which takes passengers daily to Nusa Lembongan. She carries eight sails and is 63 meters long. Hotel pickup, food and drink, snorkel gear, and glass-bottom boat trips are included for US$85 price. Children half-price. Reserve tickets by calling Tour Devco, tel. (0361) 231591 or 231592, book through your hotel, or direct to Golden Hawk Cruises, Jl. Danau Poso 20 A, Sanur, Bali (tel./fax 0361-287431).
     Another tall ship, the 115-meter-long 1902 Dutch clipper Adelaar, sleeps 18 passengers and a crew of five. When not away on charter, it operates day cruises to Nusa Lembongan for US$77 and US$55 (budget cruise, alcoholic drinks not included). For information, phone Enno Schulze at (0361) 261190.
     All the following boats can be arranged through Tour Devco (tel. 0361-231591 or 231592): Helsal III, a legendary racing yacht that at one time held every racing record on Australia's east coast, gives day tours for up to 15 guests. For US$66, your day includes a trip to Nusa Lembongan, pick up and return transport, fresh buffet lunch, boat transfers to island, complimentary teas, cocktails, and Aqua, snorkeling and sailing tuition, toilet and shower facilities. The 176-meter-long, powerful Island Explorer gives leisurely day tours. On the way, try your hand at game fishing. Famous for its flame-grilled barbecue with crisp salads and fresh tropical fruit. Ocean Lady II offers day (US$69) and overnight (US$165 per person) tours to Nusa Lembongan. This 47-foot sloop sails from Benoa Harbor at 0900, returns at 1700. Price includes all food and drink, coral viewing, and island exploring. Call (0361) 287739. The Anne Judith II, a 65-foot timber ketch, comfortable and roomy, offers two and three-day tours. The Kriez An Ael, a 20-meter French-built yacht, offers three- and five-day itinerary for six to seven guests in four cabins.
     The Simone III is a specialized Blackwatch game-fishing boat with state-of-the-art electronics and a speed of up to 25 knots. Range of heavy and light fishing tackle for fishing tuna, wahoo, mahi-mahi, mackerel, and marlin. Day cruises start at US$660, maximum six persons. Call Camar Yacht Charter, tel. (0361) 231591, 231592, or 287446, fax 231592 or 287446.

Catamaran Tours
Most cruises make the passage over to Nusa Lembongan, an island 24 km to the southeast of Bali, which takes two-and-a-half hours. The vessels anchor in a quiet bay. Explore inland, visit local villages and seaweed farms, swim and snorkel, sunbathe and beachcomb. The cruise almost always includes a hot buffet lunch and ice cold drinks. At around 1500, the boat sails back to Bali into a tropical sunset, arriving in Benoa at 1700 or 1730 for free transport back to your hotel.
     The Wakalouka is a 23-meter luxury catamaran which sails from Benoa Harbor every morning at 0900 for a two-hour cruise. At the exclusive Waka Nusa Resort, enjoy a sumptuous barbecue buffet lunch with many Balinese specialties, view the amazing coral formations offshore from the glass-bottomed boat or while snorkeling, swim in the floating pool, play volleyball and deck games, visit the aviary, or just laze and enjoy the sun and fresh air. Return at sunset (1800). Cost (including hotel transfers, unlimited soft drinks) US$70, children five to 15 half-price. Contact PT Tour Devco, tel. (0361) 231591 or 231592.
     Quicksilver, a modern, spacious catamaran with three air-conditioned decks for over 300 people, sails daily to Nusa Penida. Popular with Asian groups. International buffet lunch, ride on submersible coral viewer, and excursions to village, seaweed farm, etc. on Nusa Lembongan, 25 km from Benoa Harbor. All for US$85 per person. Reserve a place by calling (0361) 771997 or 771977.
     Moggy is a sailing catamaran with a relaxed atmosphere that sleeps eight. Day and extended charter. Call Surf Travel Company or B.B.S. at (0361) 261051 or 261052. Use the same number to charter the Mimpi Manis, a traditional Indonesian pinisi which cruises to Nusa Lembongan.
     Bali Hai II is a 34-meter luxury catamaran for 300 people, featuring several decks, air-conditioned interior, lavish international buffet luncheon, two bars. Day tours (starting at 0930) to Nusa Lembongan, rides in semi-submersible coral viewer, snorkeling instruction from a moored pontoon (all equipment provided), a ride on a glass-bottom boat, unlimited water sausage rides, and shore excursions—all for US$75. An introductory scuba diving course ($40) is optional. Returns at 1600. Children under 15 half-fare. The sunset dinner cruise, departing at 1800 (two and a half hours) with disco, laser disk karaoke, Batak singers, is US$35. Book through a travel agent or call (0361) 234331, fax 234334.

Hobie Cat Tours
Run by two Frenchmen, Aloha Sailing Tours (tel. 0361-701888, ext. 7605), offers a different kind of sailing experience for adventurers who enjoy sailing, surfing, and fishing from a small fleet of Hobie Cats. The seven-day tours take place off the coast of North Bali, an area of beautiful bays and reefs, untouched beaches, hot springs, temples, good fishing spots, consistent wind conditions. The price of US$600 includes sailing an average of six hours each day, a stop at a different losmen each night, food and refreshments, and an assistant boat to keep an eye on everyone.

Chartered Yachts from Bali
Indonesia maintains one of the largest fleets of schooners in the world. Itineraries in the archipelago are only limited by your time, imagination, and money. The charter companies on Bali will pick you up at your hotel for an early morning departure from Benoa Port. The crews prepare delicious meals of fresh seafood, and amenities include private cabins with a/c, stereo, snorkeling gear, fishing tackle, hot showers, and shaded decks. Yachts are fully equipped to meet international safety standards, and they employ fully licensed, usually Western-trained captains and Indonesian pilots.
     Australian-owned Rasa Yachts (tel. 0361-88756), the largest and longest established yacht charter business in Bali, operates three big, safe, luxury yachts on day trips or extended cruises. Maximum 12 passengers per yacht at US$79 per person per day, all inclusive.
     A sturdy, 24-ton, 14-meter-long steel-hulled sailing yacht, the Wyeema, can be chartered for safe and comfortable sailing adventures. Marvel at the unpeopled islands, deserted beaches, and magnificent diving on reefs discovered on previous sailing safaris by Captain Bruce Collins. Their specialty is a seven-day, six-night package to Komodo (Bali, Komodo, Sape, Bima, then a flight back to Bali). This package may be extended to 12 days and 11 nights. Book at Jl. Pemamoran 12, Taman Sari, Sanur (tel. 0361-287593).
     The Sirius, a 20-meter-long pleasure schooner built in 1935, fully restored and renovated with every modern convenience, is also available for extended charter throughout the Indonesian archipelago. Capacity is eight people. To reserve, call (0361) 262824.