CONDUCT AND SAFETY

If traveling in Bali for the first time, spend some extra money and begin your stay in a nice, comfortable hotel to lessen the initial impact. Once you meet other Western travelers, you'll become part of the traveling community and won't feel so alone. Traveling in the out-areas, you need to get accustomed to the lack of privacy. If staying in a budget hotel, you immediately have to adjust to the noise level. The kampung of Bali are noisy-dogs howl, roosters crow, cassettes blare, women quarrel, horns blow, and motorbikes whine. Your only defense is to rise when the cocks crow and get into the daily rhythm of the island. Use your imagaination, energy, daring, and style to avoid following well-worn tourist ruts. Staying a week in accommodations in or near a kampung will give you a faint glimpse of what it's like to be Balinese.
     Travelers should also be prepared to forego an occasional night's sleep. Make of the night, the day. Many forms of entertainment, wayang, prayers, and religious festivals run all night long. The Balinese often stay up the whole night of a full moon simply for the cool temperatures and the magic still to be found on Bali.
     When trying to get someone's attention, use common "call names." For someone older or of higher social standing than you, Pak is short for the Indonesia word bapak or father. When calling an older woman, Bu is short for the Indonesian word ibu or mother. When addressing a young woman, Geg is short for the Balinese word egeg, or "pretty," and when addressing a young man, Gus is short for bagus, "good."
     Don't say thank you for everything that's done for you. It sounds ridiculous because Indonesians seldom say thank you. Don't show any sentimental attachment to animals; this is Asia. Balinese treatment of their fellow creatures reflects the revulsion they have for all forms of animality. Balinese children jump with glee while dogs die horribly from a rifle shot or drowning.
     Polite conversation will be initiated by the usual exchange of greetings. When meeting strangers it's polite to introduce yourself without waiting for someone else to do the introductions. Shake hands when greeting people; both men and women will offer their hands. The inevitable questions will follow about what country you're from, whether you are married, how many children you have, and where you bought the sarung you're wearing. If you take a business card, spell out the person's name phonetically on the back, being sure to divide their name into syllables and put in the correct accent. An especially gracious gesture on Bali is to give the Hindu greeting "Om swasti astu" while holding your hands together in the traditional Hindu blessing. After a conversation with a Balinese, it's polite to ask permission to leave.
     Remote villagers have not become used to the presence of Westerners (orang asing) and can stare unmercifully for long periods of time. If this occurs, it may help to say "Jangan melihat saya." ("Don't stare or look at me.") This usually is enough to make them too embarrassed to continue. Children will yell out "Hello Mister!" and "Hello Miss!" and other calls from the lexicon of tourist greetings. You can answer "Pergi ke mana?" ("Where are you going?") or "Dimana jalan kaki?" ("Where is the footpath?") and watch their surprise. Pass your cigarettes around, and if you've been into town bring back biscuits for the kids.

The Balinese Character
The Balinese are easygoing, courteous, gentle, and kind if you are kind. But don't think that because the Balinese smile a lot and are friendly they make good, long-lasting friends. The villages are tight-knit, almost impossible for non-Balinese to penetrate, and are very business and family oriented. Westerners dislike hierarchy, are suspicious of authorities, and believe in egalitarianism. Balinese, on the other hand, are submissive to authority. Loyalty to family, clan, village, and friends is most important.
     Balinese are more direct than the Javanese who are taught as little children to lie, as in "If you stop crying, there's an ice cream man in front of the house." They want to tell you only what they think you want to hear. The Balinese though are more straightforward. In business dealings they come more quickly to the point. On Bali, every driver uses the horn; on Java, no one does. The Balinese also work harder than the Javanese, are easier to train, and complete their jobs. They make better houseboys, waiters, porters, and drivers. After all, they've been dealing with Westerners and their myriad idiosyncrasies since the 1930s.
     The Balinese have a strong propensity for jealousy (irihati) or envy of other Balinese and Indonesians, especially in the upper classes. They gossip, slander, and make snide remarks behind the backs of other people in their compound or village. A banjar can be a veritable hotbed of gossip-some mischievous, some vicious.
     But the Balinese are very adept at hiding jealousy, envy, and anger. When Balinese men drink, they might lose their temper and become excitable over perceived insults or discourtesies, particularly if they lose face. Otherwise, they're passive. Anger is not shown openly. Loud voices are considered vulgar, and the more vehement the discussion, the quieter a Balinese is likely to become. In a quarrel with a Balinese, Westerners are assertive, confrontational, and openly angry. Westerners think they are being frank and down-to-earth, but Balinese find them rude and offensive. Watch what happens at Denpasar airport when 17 pushy real estates agents from Los Angeles learn that Garuda has overbooked and their seats given away. The angrier they become, the more withdrawn and soft-spoken the Balinese become. He will continue to smile, maintain a calm appearance, and withdraw from the quarrel, choosing to deal with the issue later through a third person. Under intolerable stress, the normal Balinese reaction is retreat deeper into one's self, seeming no longer to inhabit their bodies and cutting themselves off from the outside world.
     After a fatal car accident, relatives of the deceased can be seen sleeping at the accident site. Or as a village court decides what to do with a thief, he'll nod off. If you've been away and come back to find your ibu or houseboy asleep in the afternoon, you know that something has been lost, broken, or stolen. When pushed beyond this temporary catatonic state, a Balinese may "run amok," an extreme cultural reaction to overpowering stress. Balinese rarely show anger but when they do, they erupt without warning like a volcano. An estimated 50,000 people died on Bali in 1966-67 during an orgy of killing which followed an alleged communist coup. Essential reading on the subject is The Balinese People: A Reinvestigation of the Balinese Character (Jensen and Suryani: 1993). Co-authored by a Balinese, this insightful book takes a refreshing look at the Balinese character from their perspective.

Individual versus the Group
There's no place for the individual in this society like in the West. Bali is a crowded island, and its people live in very close proximity. As exemplified in the Balinese banjar and subak organizations, it's the individual's duty to obey the will of the group and the group leader. Loyalty to family, banjar, and village are more important than self-advancement.
     Emphasis is placed on mutual togetherness, and on physical and emotional closeness to others of the same sex. The Balinese seek the security and support of others. Individuals aren't admired and may eventually be ostracized from the banjar if they don't fulfill their community obligations. Community members feel at one with the group, self-identity deriving from group identity. Balinese consider the man or woman who stands alone as unnatural and a little absurd.
     Many Balinese are accustomed to sharing their beds with family members and may feel lonely or frightened when sleeping alone. A family member who brings disgrace to the family, even through no fault of their own, will be cast out in order to maintain family dignity.

Sex and Intimacy
Balinese of the opposite sex are not openly affectionate to one another. At public gatherings men always sit to one side of the courtyard and women on the other-gossiping, praying, smoking, gambling, or whatever. Though considered homosexual behavior in Western societies, Balinese males and females frequently touch, link arms, or hold hands with their peers in a social setting. The whole island seems to share this quite unaffected and casual intimacy, considered a mark of friendship and sociability, not sexuality.
     On Bali it's okay for men to touch other men in public. Balinese sometimes perceive Western men as unfriendly when they don't allow themselves to be touched, while Westerners perceive Balinese men as effeminate when they do. Touching very seldom occurs between people of the opposite sex, especially lovers. To do so would bring shame and embarrasment to the families of those involved. Out of respect, Westerners should never kiss or show affection in public. All this doesn't mean that the Balinese are puritans. They love to tell bawdy off-color jokes, children are adept at making ribald puns, and the men aren't a bit shy about courting Western women.

Hygiene
Inside mandi (bathroom) consist of just a cement tub for bathing, or a bath and toilet combination. Don't jump into the bath water; it's for throwing over you. The floor gets wet, but that's okay. Balinese are surprised and amused when they see Westerners trying to keep their bathroom floors dry. Most outdoor bathing places have concealing walls and separate areas for men and women. The Balinese bathe at least twice daily-early in the morning, and after school or work.
     It's okay to bathe with your respective gender. They'll probably laugh. Bring your own towel, soap, and shampoo. Both sexes are very discreet about showing their private parts and it's extremely bad manners to stare at bathers even if the bathing place is open. It is grossly impolite to take photos of bathers, covered or not. Bathing places should be avoided from around 1700 on to let Balinese bath in peace. In many locales, the Balinese wait until the last tourist bus has gone because they don't like being photographed while bathing.
     The left hand is used in the toilet and the right is kept clean for eating, shaking hands, and sprinkling holy water or wafting incense. Men needing to urinate in a crowded place just squat down in a ditch with knees spread for cover. Avoid blowing your nose into a handkerchief in front of others.
     Anything low to the ground or touching it is considered soiled, including babies until they are six months old. Clothing is looked upon as unclean, particularly the clothes of women who have recently given birth or clothing which might have been tainted with menstrual blood. It's inconceivable for a Balinese to walk under a line hung with drying clothes.

Dress and Grooming
Be neat, clean, and fairly careful about what you wear. Shorts, tank tops, braless jerseys, or strapless tops in small villages could be insulting, something only fieldworkers and laborers do. This clothing can be worn in the beach resorts of southern Bali, but upland towns such as Ubud and Bangli are not surfing beaches and conservative dress is in order. Old, faded, or torn clothes, bare shoulders and knees, or excessively native dress is also considered bad form. Wear a collared shirt, skirt, or trousers, and shoes when a visiting a government office such as kantor imigrasi (immigration office), applying for a driver's license, visiting a sacred area, or attending a ceremony. Take your shoes off before entering a private residence.
     A sarung tied above the breasts is only acceptable on the way to the beach or on the way to bathe. The Balinese are not bothered by nude or semi-nude bathing, but the ruling Javanese are-it's illegal on Bali's beaches. However, it's impossible to arrest scores of barebreasted Italian and French women.

Religion
Ninety percent of Balinese are Hindu; their temples are roofless, open to the air, and very informal. Guests (tamu) may enter a temple any time as long as they are properly dressed and follow some simple but strict rules meant to preserve the temple's sanctity. Since the early 1970s signs in English have been posted in front of temples and government offices showing graphic examples of appropriate and inappropriate dress.
     When entering temples, traditional adat dress is required: the legs must be covered; if you don't have a sarung then you may rent one to wrap around shorts or short dresses; if wearing long pants, sashes should be worn around the waist. Smile when you pay the token fee (Rp550) which goes to the upkeep of the temple. Except when praying or attending a ceremony, temple courtyards are not for sitting in, and don't use your flash during ceremonies or praying.
     Menstruating women are believed to be "impure" (sebel) and may not enter temples or participate in any religious activity. If a Balinese woman enters a temple during her period and makes an offering, she could be severely fined. This does not reflect a sexist attitude but is based on the prohibition of unsanctified blood on sacred ground.
     When ceremonies involving revered objects are underway, sit on the ground or move to the back of the temple. Keep out of the way and don't move in front of worshippers. It's forbidden to climb up on temple walls (to take a better photograph, for example) or to put oneself on a higher level than that of a priest. It's also considered sacreligious to step over or stand with one's head above a revered barong mask or other sacred object in a temple. Clothes should never be hung to dry on temple walls including those surrounding domestic shrines.
     The Balinese aren't offended easily, but they do have their own opinions on religion. If you're an atheist, don't tell everybody-the Balinese will react with confusion, disbelief, even scorn, thinking you're a godless communist. For them, it would be like discovering that a person was alive without a heartbeat.

Table Manners
A Balinese will always offer to share his meal when a visitor arrives at his house, office, or park bench, and he will usually excuse himself for eating in front of you at a warung. If you're offered food or drink in someone's home it is polite to accept or at least ask for a glass of hot tea. A guest may not start to eat or drink until invited to do so by the host with "Silakan" ("Please begin to eat") or "Minimlah" ("Please drink"), sometimes 20 minutes later! Take a small helping the first time because your host will be offended if you don't eat a second. It's polite to keep pace with your host. If you empty your plate, it means you want more. If you are the host, ask your Indonesian guest to eat or drink when food is served since he will wait until you offer it. Many Balinese don't use utensils at home but eat the traditional way with the fingers of the right hand. Never eat with the left hand-it's used instead of toilet paper. When you're done eating ask the host or hostess for permission (permisi) to leave.
     Indonesians are not accustomed to eating uncooked food such as salads, cold meats, and dairy products, but fruit is often served after a meal. Westerners rarely eat the insides of cattle, pigs, or chickens, but on Bali every part of an animal is eaten except its eyes. Families don't usually talk during meals; conversation starts after. If you have to pick your teeth cover your mouth with your hands-only animals show their fangs.

Body Language
Aggressive gestures and postures such as crossing your arms or standing with your hands on hips while talking, particularly with older people, is regarded as insulting since this is the traditional posture of defiance and anger in wayang theater. In an exchange with someone older or in a high office, extend your right arm (but not too far) and bring your left arm across the front of your body touching your fingers to your right elbow. Also show respect by bowing from the waist when passing an older person, a priest or reverend, or a person of equal age whom you don't know-particularly if that person is sitting. Turn your body slightly sideways, extend your right hand, and walk by half bent over.
     Next to sex organs, feet are considered the lowliest and most profane body parts. It's a serious offense to sit with the soles of your feet pointing at people (such as propping them up on a table). It's also terribly impolite to use your toes for pointing as when indicating something displayed on the ground in the pasar. Also, to beckon anybody with the crooked index finger is rude. If you need to call to someone, extend your right hand and make a motion using the cupped fingers turned downward. Neither should you point with your forefinger, but use instead your right thumb. The left hand is considered unclean, never use it to touch someone or to exchange things. If you should use your left hand, say "Ma'af" ("Excuse me").
     Don't pat children on the head. In fact, never touch anybody's head as the Balinese see the head as sacred, the seat of the soul. Pillows shouldn't be used for sitting because they are meant for the head. A barber will ask permission before he cuts your hair, and a hotel receptionist will apologize before placing a flower behind your ear.

HASSLES

Even though Bali is one of the world's least policed territories, violent crimes are practically unheard of. Singapore, with about the same population, has five times the crime and five times the police. The secret to the low crime rate is the stabilizing influence of the banjar (village council). When crimes do take place the Balinese almost exclusively blame the Javanese or the Sasaks. As evidence, they point to the fact that after an arrest it turns out the criminals came from either Java or Lombok. Other oft-accused scapegoats are Bali Aga thieves from Kintamani in the mountains of Bali.
     Beware of over-friendly strangers speaking slick English peppered with American or Australian slang. They are usually trouble, so don't be decieved by their Western-style dress or manners. Never get pushed into paying for something without bargaining first, and don't make donations without verifying the existence of the object or the authenticity of the cause. The Balinese sometimes confuse generosity with abundance, taking advantage of your good nature and desire to be friendly. They borrow things-surfboards, sunglasses, cassettes, guitars, books, and "forget to return them" (pinjam lagi, terus hilang). With the disarming smile of a little girl, they are skilled at coaxing you into doing things you don't really want to. If you want someone to leave you alone, just say simply "Bukan adat kami." "It's not our custom."

Vendors
In the tourist locales street vendors can be unbelievably pushy. Be polite at first, expressing your disinterest while looking them in the eye. They're just trying to make a living like everyone else, and if you ask the price they'll think you're interested and hound you mercilessly until you buy. If the vendor persists, make a stand, stating firmly and unequivocally that you don't want the item. Repeat this in Indonesian or in English, and look them straight in the eye (don't look at the item they're selling) until they back off. This usually works. If it doesn't, say vehemently "Silahkan pergi!" ("Please go away!"). Another effective technique to use with a nagging crafts seller is to make an offer so ridiculously low he gives you up for a lost cause (but be careful, he could accept it!). Be wary of predatory guides who offer to show you around arts and crafts shops. They expect a commission from the owners.

Dealing with the Bureaucrats
Tourists who break the law make it hard for those who follow the rules, so give your fellow travelers a break. But don't always assume you need permission to do something or go somewhere. The more questions you ask, the more questions will be asked of you. Humility goes a long way when dealing with Indonesian bureaucrats. If you get into any hassles with annoying cops, customs agents, or imigrasi officials, just act meek, friendly, and innocent. In most cases, they just want you to show respect and acknowledge that they're real. If there's a problem, bypass petty officials if you can and go right to the top. Often, people in authority are more intelligent, reasonable, and understanding, and you'll eventually have to go to them anyway.

Drugs
The ultimate hassle in Bali is getting busted for selling or using drugs, an offense the Indonesians take very seriously. You'll be offered marijuana and hash along Jl. Legian in Kuta and Legian, but half the time you'll get ripped off and may risk being turned in by a police informer, hotel owner, or passerby. Indonesian authorities believe that foreign tourists have established a narcotic network on Bali. About the only "legal" drugs are the magic mushrooms (oong) served in omelettes and fruit juices in some of the restaurants of Kuta.
     It's no longer easy to bribe your way out of a drug bust. Nine year sentences for drug dealers is the norm, and there are always Westerners stranded in jail for drug convictions, abandoned by country and friends.

Beggars
In the sacred lontar it states that the Balinese must give to beggars. They are accepted members of society, but only if they are crippled, retarded, or have some other health problem. You're not obliged to give money to strong, healthy people.
     The beggars you see in Kuta and Legian are usually mountain people from the Kintamani area. Traditionally they grow corn, potatoes, and salak, which they sell or barter in the rice-growing towns. However, many have turned to begging because they make a better living off dumb tourists. They put on a sad face and dress themselves and their small children in rags. Don't fall for it. The more you give, the less motivation healthy individuals and their children will have to earn an honest living. Never give money to children as it creates an endless cycle of dependence and diminishes their self-worth. Encourage Balinese pride by saying "Tidak boleh!" ("You may not!") to begging children. Instead of money, offer a look through your binoculars, pens, notebooks, or color postcards (in Kuta or Legian or you'll be mobbed). If an adult Balinese does a favor, a little uang rokok (literally, "cigarette money" or pocket change) may be appropriate. A small child who hikes all the way up Mt. Batur before sunrise to sell cokes, or fetches coffee and a newspaper is not begging. A small gratuity is definitely in order.

A Note for Women Travelers
Though Bali is a much easier place than Islamic Indonesia for a solitary woman traveler, there are still difficulties. A young, statuesque woman with blonde hair and blue eyes could face even more problems. Balinese "Kuta Cowboys" (i.e. beach bums) flaunt their Western girlfriends or marry Western women and become prosperous. Others now see it as their hope for the future. A single woman will never receive so many marriage proposals in her life.
     Women are much more likely to get raped in the U.S., Europe, or Australia than on Bali, but you can expect men to pay you a lot of unwanted attention. To cut down on the attention, choose your clothes with care and do nothing to invite advances. Except when going to one of Bali's southern beaches, it's not a good idea to wear short shorts or skirts, braless tanktops, or strapless tops. Don't ask a man to accompany you to the beach at night for protection. He might misinterpret this as an invitation to have sex, because Balinese men don't realize American and Australian women fear they might be raped, robbed, or murdered if they go to the beach alone.
     It's almost incomprehensible to Balinese men that a woman can live and travel alone. Women in Bali are afraid of living alone. They need their families to perform religious rites for their ancestors. Strong obligation to care for family members also keeps them at home. Men feel a particularly strong obligation to care for their households and ancestors. So here comes an unmarried, unaccompanied woman-she must want to be cared for and protected. Balinese men have an innate charm and graciousness, and when you ask a question, you're likely to get a sensitive answer. They feel they are responding naturally and instinctively to what women really want.
     For years Australian men have gotten a big kick out of telling naive Balinese men that all Western women like dirty talk and sex, and if they say no they mean yes. They encourage the Balinese men to keep pushing because all Western women want it. Then they laugh about what fools they've made of the Balinese. As a result, men will ask if you're married, have a boyfriend, or if you've ever slept with a Balinese man. Answer very directly and even become rude to get rid of them-whatever it takes. The polite way is to say "Saya senang sendiri" ("I prefer to be alone") or "Saya mau lihat-lihat seorang saja" ("I'd like to look around by myself"). As a last resort, take off your sunglasses, turn your face away expressionless, and say emphatically "No!" If they ever acted this way to Balinese women, they'd be knifed.
     Some drivers say such filthy things that eventually women don't feel safe getting into taxis. If you want more comfort and convenience than a bemo provides, hire a car, but avoid situations where intimacy might develop with your driver. Never take one driver for long-terms or overnight, don't sit in the front seat with him, and don't eat meals with him. Give him money for his own food if necessary. Another way to discourage sexual harrasment is to say you're married and your husband is waiting in the next village. Wear a wedding ring to back it up. Confidence is important. Don't give out your room number to men, and don't hug a Balinese man as it will invariably be misunderstood. You can also join other travelers for out-of-town trips. It might be best for some single women to join a group tour. But try to avoid turning every comment made by a Balinese man into a sexual innuendo. Don't become livid at your roomboys when they always ask "Where are you going?" In Indonesian culture, this is a courteous inquiry along the lines of "How are you?" Politeness is not a sexual advance so keep an informed and balanced point of view.

THEFT

Although muggings and other violent crimes are rare on Bali, stealing is a problem, particularly in resort areas with lots of tourists. Budget travelers are more vulnerable to theft than affluent tourists who take planes, taxis, and rent cars. Since travelers carry their money and valuables on their persons, they are prime targets for thieves. Suspicion and wariness demand constant effort. Not agreeable states of mind, they do prevent thefts, which would be more unpleasant.
     The best measure against theft is to travel without jewelry, a watch, or camera. Balinese are proud and consider temptation an affront. The less you travel with, the less there is to steal, and less resentment is aroused. See what happens to your bargaining position if you flash money or jewelry. Lock up valuables or keep them out of sight. Travelers also rip off other travelers, so exercise caution around Westerners too. Never carry a lot of cash, perhaps only US$50 to see you through that day or week. Whether it's English pounds, U.S. dollars or Australian dollars, keep your money in small denomination traveler's cheques, cashable at banks, shops, and restaurants all over Bali. Even if you go to a moneychanger twice a week to cash traveler's cheques, it's better than losing all your cash.

Discouraging Theft
All imaginable precautions should quickly become second nature to you. Always lock your hotel room. If you're traveling in budget places it's even better to bring your own lock and key to prevent inside jobs by houseboys or maids. Quick and quiet, thieves will enter your room through a window while you sleep and steal the camera from the hook above your head or the backpack from underneath your bed. Some losmen owners practice extraordinary security, checking at night to see if your door is locked properly. It's an eerie sight to see your doorknob slowly turn, but it might just be your landlord.
     Ask to keep your valuables with the proprietor at a homestay, or at the front desk at small hotels for safekeeping. Many hotels now have safe deposit boxes (tempat simpan uang), the more expensive ones even have them inside the rooms. When you go inside supermarkets or department stores you can usually check your bag and your valuables in a storage bin (tempat pinitipan barang). If you have the slightest doubt about security, spend the extra money on a more expensive, safer hotel with bars on the windows, a penjaga (guard), constant supervision by family members or the manager, and a high fence or stone wall with barbed wire or broken glass on top. The general public must be prevented from entering the inner compound, and your window shouldn't face an alley or side street, but toward the interior of the hotel. Don't leave bags on floors where they can be hooked with a line or pole and pulled to the window, and don't set anything valuable near an open window or on a curbside table while dining al fresco. Also don't leave valuables in a vehicle-leave the glove compartment open to show you don't have anything of value-and never leave a camera bag unattended in the back, even if you're in the vehicle with the back doors locked. Bags can be stolen when you stop and talk to boys crowding around your vehicle trying to distract you.

Pickpockets
If your mind is not on your money, you'll be vulnerable to pickpockets. Don't put your wallet in your back pocket-instead keep money deep inside your front trouser pockets. Be wary of minor accidents-being shoved or bumped, or having your foot stepped on. Don't be taken in by distractions, and be very watchful while attending crowded festivals. One big advantage of traveling with someone is that you're less likely to get robbed; you can keep an eye on each other and your gear.
     As a general rule, don't let anyone touch you. On Kuta don't let the kids selling bracelets, wrist bands, or watches near you. They might try to pick your pocket, moneybelt, or fanny pack-working in tandem, one shows you the wares while the another shows you how a moneybelt "works" by putting it around you, holding the belt just above your wallet. No matter how cute or friendly they appear, just walk around them. If it's your first time in Asia, it's always better to buy in a shop and not from street peddlers.
     Be cautious on Bali's bemo where travelers get ripped off by young pickpockets dressed as schoolkids. Working in groups, one or two act as a diversion while an accomplice steals. A large package, basket, or painting serves as cover. On the bemo which ply the tourist corridor between the capital and the hinterland, don't freak out if a pickpocket probes your jeans or shoulder bag for money. Take the strange fingers out, point, and announce to everyone, "Pencopet!" ("Pickpocket!"). Probably no one will do anything, but the thief won't stick around after that. Sit in the "traveler's seat" in the back of the bemo with your right or left side next to the cab. This will make your pockets and bags more difficult to get into. Keep your backpack against the cab with your eye on it, pockets facing the wall. If you see a suspicious situation shaping up, just get out and flag down another bemo-why take chances?

Wallets, Shoulder Bags, Passports
The whole concept of the wallet-in-the-hip-pocket must be discarded while in Bali. Pickpockets know exactly how to get at them, and at purses and shoulderbags. Avoid zippered shoulder bags because the zipper doesn't always close all the way, leaving room for a hand to reach inside. Instead, use a latch or snap which fastens the bag and can be locked, or a bag with a small opening which you have to pry apart yourself. The less you open your bag in public, the better.
     Snatch thieves work in pairs on a motorbike. One sitting in back grabbing your shoulder bag or moneybelt, dragging you with it if you don't let go, and the other driving. Be wary of approaching motorbikes. Some travelers bear scratch marks from thieves who try to tear off necklaces and watches. Don't put valuables in a camera case; thieves have caught on to this practice. Cheap styrofoam coolers are better for storing valuables because they don't look like they contain valuables.
     When moving around the island, leave your address book, traveler's check serial numbers, passport number, photographs, heavy money, air tickets, and other hard-to-replace papers in the bottom of your backpack. You're less likely to lose your backpack, and valuables can be taken out in the privacy of your room as you need them. Your backpack offers the most security because it either remains in your room or on your back, making it difficult for a thief to get into it without being detected. Keep only those possessions you can live without in side pockets or on the top layer of unlocked rucksacks or daypacks.

Lost Air Tickets/Passports
Write down your airline ticket number, flight number, issuing agent, date of issue, and method of payment. This information will make your ticket easier to refund in case of loss, but you still have to pay US$10 or more to the airline to replace it. The airline wants to be sure tickets haven't been used, so they can only be refunded at least three months after their expiration date.
     Don't put your passport and money in the same place. If they're stolen, you've lost everything. Report passport loss immediately to the nearest police station and ask for a letter of reported theft/loss. Without this letter, a replacement passport to give you an extension from the imigrasi could be difficult. New passports or letters of travel can be obtained through consulates and embassies, most likely in Jakarta. Indonesia's major trading partners (Australia, Japan, U.S.A., the Netherlands) maintain consulates on Bali, many in Sanur (see "Information and Services," later in this chapter).

Moneybelts
An underpaid policeman can end up being your only friend in the case of a stolen or lost moneybelt. He might console you, feed you, then start up a collection to get you back safely to "your friends." This happened to me once in Padangpai after my moneybelt was stolen aboard the ferry from Lombok.
     Designed to go under your clothes, moneybelts are highly recommended for Indonesia. If you hang a compact pouch on a leather strap around your neck, dangling under your shirt, it can be yanked off in crowds. A tight moneybelt fastened around your waist next to your skin is better. Keep your traveler's cheques, passport, and other documents in plastic covers inside so they don't become soiled with sweat, thus illegible or troublesome to use. On extended trips around the island, wrap a cloth or handkerchief around your belt so your skin doesn't get irritated because of the wet canvas. Select a moneybelt with the buckle in front so it doesn't gouge into your back when you're carrying your backpack.
     Highly durable, water-repellent, cotton-blend, field-tested moneybelts with heavy-duty zippers are available for only $8.95 plus $1.25 shipping direct from Moon Publications, P.O. Box 3040, Chico, CA 95927, U.S.A. (tel. 800-345-5473). Another very secure and undetectable way to carry large-denomination bills is a thick leather belt with a zipper along the inside which opens to a long, narrow, interior compartment. These cost around US$15 in Europe (not easy to find in the U.S.A. or Australia).