SOUTHERN TABANAN REGENCY

TABANAN

The regency's capital as well as the commercial and arts center. Lying in the heart of Bali's thriving rice belt, Tabanan's town center is bustling with small industries and many Chinese-owned shops. East- and westbound traffic streams in and out of this medium-sized town on several one-way streets.
     Visit Puri Tabanan, the ornate traditional residence of the raja and the seat of a powerful kingdom from the 17th to 20th centuries. The Kingdom of Tabanan consisted of a large number of rich and powerful jero and puri—the most influential were the rival houses of Puri Anom and Puri Kaleran. During the 1945-48 period of violent political turmoil on Bali, Tabanan swarmed with anti-Dutch activities. On the edge of town is the Pancaka Tirta Cemetery, where Republicans killed in the conflict are buried.
     Prior to 1989 Tabanan was a dirty shophouse town, but when the new bupati was elected that year new buildings and a new market were built. There's now a supermarket, gardens and sidewalks beautify the roadways, and an efficient waste disposal system is in place. The town has even won prizes for cleanliness; some say it's the best-organized town on Bali. Today the place is booming, attracting even lawyers and a notary republic.
     Though seldom visited by tourists and not known as an art center, Tabanan is actually rich in dance and art traditions. There are classical poetry (kakawin) clubs, it's been a woodcarving center since the 19th century, and the town is home to a famous gamelan and the much acclaimed dance troupe Rama Dewa. Five km east of Tabanan in the village of Abiantuwung the dance masters (sarjana senitari) of the Sanggar Tari Warhatnala ("School of Dance") train Balinese and foreign dancers. If coming from Denpasar, the school is on the right (16 km from Denpasar). See the sign by a big pura and waringan tree. Contact director I Gusti Ngurah Supartha, a well-known choreographer and musician.

Gedung Marya
Named after I Ketut Mario, Bali's preeminent choreographer and dance master of the 1920s and '30s who singlehandedly created the kebyar and terompong, this building is in front of the Puri Tabanan. Dances are staged here only in June during the art fair (pesta seni) and for Independence Day celebrations on 17 August. During the fair you may see the kebyar, arja, wayang kulit, and lomba-lomba festival.

Accommodations
There are few hotels in Tabanan. Since the selection is limited and substandard, it's best to push through and stay outside the city in more agreeable seaside accommodations at Yeh Gangga, Tibubiyu, or Balian Beach. If you have to stay, on the east side of town is Hotel Sederhana, Jl. Saha Dewa, tel. (0361) 811708, right across from the police station; Rp8000 s, Rp12,000 d. Clean and quiet. Opposite the bupati office is the trader's hotel Taruna Jaya, Jl. Dharma Wanasa 1, about the same price as the Sederhana. If coming from Denpasar, turn left at the Rumah Sakit, east of the bupati office.

Food
Eat bargain meals in the pasar senggol (open 1700-2400) east of Gedung Marya. Also good, simple food at Terminal Pesiapan, Tabanan's bus/bemo station. One of the best nasi padang restaurants around is the Murah Meriah in the bus station. People from all over Bali associate Tabanan with a spinachlike vegetable called gondo (or sayur pelecing); try a dish in the pasar senggol. Tabanan is also a good place to buy brem. In the nasi padang restaurant Pura Bulia, Jl. Gajah Mada 45, a quite good nasi campur is served. Reflecting Javanese influence, there's another Muslim restaurant as well. Taliwang Bersaudara on Jl. Gatot Subroto specializes in ayam goreng, ayam pangang, and other Sasak dishes. On the other side of the road is the Indonesian restaurant Taman Senggulan, which is famed for its baked fish. Toko Makanan Sedia, on the main street Jl. Gajah Mada, is a small Chinese restaurant with tasty food.

Shopping
Tabanan is one of the best and cheapest places on Bali to shop for everyday articles. The big market for the whole regency is in the middle of Tabanan, selling even exotic items like avocados. This busy pasar is neater and cleaner than most markets, and the sellers don't hassle you. Shop here for clothes, shoes, krupuk, and household and electronic goods. Also for sale are sarung, ceremonial clothes, and temple umbrellas. Toko Swardana, Jl. Gajah Mada 41, tel. (0361) 811249, has a beautiful collection of reasonably priced clocks, watches, alarm clocks, perfume, and sunglasses. Check out the supermarket Nanushka Utama Pusat Perbelanjaan, about three km before Tabanan on the way from Kediri. About 1.5 km from Tabanan on the road to Kediri is Miranda Fashion Clothing Store.

Services
The tourist information office is on Jl. Gunung Agung, tel. (0361) 811602, on the east side of Gedung Marya; see Pak Ketut Suaba. Change money at the BPD Bank, which accepts traveler's checks at fair rates, on the main street Jl. Gajah Mada. For phone calls to Australia, Europe, and the U.S., try the telephone and telegraph substation (Perumtel Telekommunikasi) on Jl. Anggrek in a new Balinese-style building. Tabanan has a big hospital—including an optometrist—on the main road coming into town from Denpasar.

Getting There
From Denpasar, take a bemo from Ubung station (Rp800) or follow the main highway west toward Negara through the villages of Sempidi, Lukluk, and Kapac, arriving in Tabanan after 20 km. Or take a bemo from Denpasar's Ubung station heading to Gilimanuk and get off in the town center.

Getting Away
The Tabanan bus station (Terminal Pesiapan) is on the west side of town. From this terminal big Isuzu vans head for Mengwi, Rp500; Denpasar, Rp800; Bedugul, Rp2000; Negara, Rp1750; and Gilimanuk, Rp2500. All bis malam leave from Terminal Pesiapan; arrive one hour before departure. A bus ticket office is in Warung Ani, Jl. Gajah Mada 128. If coming from Gilimanuk, the office is before the row of shops on the left. Long-distance bus ticket fares are Jakarta, Rp56,500 (departs 0700, 24 hours); Bandung, Rp50,000 (0700); Bogor (0700); Surabaya, Rp21,000 (1900); Malang, Rp21,000 (1800); Yogyakarta, Rp38,000 (1530). Another bis malam office is east of Bank Republic Indonesia.

Vicinity of Tabanan
Explore the paddies and villages around town. Almost any side road out of Tabanan to the south eventually ends up at the sea, with a wide sandy sloping beach and good surf. The Tabanan coast offers isolated coves and rocky outcrops which provide shade and spectacular ocean views. The black sand is known for its curative, therapeutic properties, and is said to be particularly helpful for arthritis.
     The Subak Museum is in Senggulan village two km east of Tabanan and about four km west of the road junction to Kediri. If you're on an Ubung-Tabanan-Gilimanuk bemo, get out when you see the big sign on the road's north side advertising the Taman Senggulan Restaurant, then cross the road and walk 350 meters up the hill. You'll see the small sign for Mandala Mathika Subak. A single room houses exhibits on the history and development of Bali's unique subak irrigation committees. This is the only museum on Bali to focus on agriculture, displaying farming implements for cutting, cleaning, and pounding rice; tools for leveling land, ploughing, weeding, and digging water tunnels; various fish traps; tweezers for catching eels; wooden nets used to catch dragonflies; a miniature kitchen with utensils used for cooking rice; a scale model of a farming kampung; and old-style structures. Open daily 0730-1830, closed Sunday. By donation.

NORTH OF TABANAN

Yeh Panas
The holy spring of Yeh Panas Penetahan, about 12 km north of Tabanan. Japanese soldiers stationed in Tabanan used to visit this spring during the war to refresh themselves in its hot, pungent, sulphurous mineral waters. They widened the track to the spring, and built small bathing sheds. In the 1960s luxury tourist villas were constructed at the best vantage points around the spring, but the project lacked financing and the buildings were abandoned. The shells were soon occupied by invisible spirits (memedi); the voices of women were heard wimpering in the night. To discourage these new occupants from settling in permanently, the remaining structures were used to shelter pigs and cattle.
     Today, the delightful and relaxing Yeh Panas Natural Hotspring and Spa on the sylvan winding road (Jl. Batukaru) to Gunung Batukau is Bali's only hot springs specifically designed as a spa. There's a Rp500 per person (Rp300 for children) admittance charge, plus Rp250 for parking, which pays for just looking—no bathing. On the eastern side of the parking lot are two public hot water spouts which anyone can use for free. Or you can partake of the facilities including lunch for around Rp110,000 per person plus 17.5% tax and service. No expense was spared in the construction of these nine separate and private outdoor spa enclosures. The pools are of different sizes, some accommodating four people, others eight. Each spa is surrounded by a bamboo fence and has jets and blowers; for "room service" you hit a kulkul. The swimming pool is fed by fresh water and has a sunken bar and waterfall. There's a playground for children. The naturally hot water from the springs—probably Bali's hottest—contains sulphur, potassium, sodium, and small percentages of minerals, with no additives except an occasional dose of chlorine. The water, it is said, will relieve itching and heal skin diseases.
     The comfortable restaurant, overlooking the rushing river, serves expensive drinks (Rp5000 for a large Bintang), and Western, Indonesian, and Chinese food, pizza, and pasta. For more information and reservations, contact Varianusa, Jl. Raya Kuta 15 X, Denpasar, tel. (0361) 262356.

Marga
The Margarana Monument in Marga is 15 km northeast of Tabanan. This memorial park honors a regiment of guerrilla fighters killed here by a Dutch ground attack and aerial bombardment shortly after WW II. The Dutch far outnumbered the Balinese, many of whom were armed only with sharpened bamboo poles. The engagement was a shattering defeat for the Balinese resistance movement, killing many of its original leaders. So many high caste cadre lost their lives that the battle marked the beginning of much heavier participation of lower-caste guerrillas. The aristocratic leader of this futile stand was 29-year-old Lt. Col. I Gusti Ngurah Rai; Denpasar's airport is named after him. The Battle of Marga was joined after the Indonesians refused a Dutch demand for surrender. After a series of clashes in Tabanan, Rai's platoon set out on a long march to Gunung Agung, seeking to draw attention away from a landing on Jembrana of Republican troops from Java. The ploy was discovered by the Dutch, who attacked and annhilated the Balinese force at Marga on 20 November 1946 with the aid of a B-25 bomber. In all, 96 Balinese guerrillas were killed.
     The Margarana ("Battle of Marga") monument was built in 1954. In the middle is a 17-meter-tall, eight-roofed monument shaped like a Javanese candi, designed to symbolize the unity of the fallen revolutionaries in their fight for freedom.
     A strange, eerie feeling permeates this place. The memorial stones of 1,372 men and women, Muslims, Hindus, and Christians, who died on Bali fighting Dutch forces lie in a cemetery here, including 11 Japanese soldiers who defected to the Indonesian side. Christian tombstones bear the cross, Muslims the half moon, Balinese the swastika. The monument is inscribed with the text of a famous letter Rai wrote to a Dutch officer, pledging to give his life for the revolution.
     Marga is not a regular tourist stop, there will probably be few people here, but it is worth a visit. Every 20 November, a Hero's Day Ceremony is held here with a reenactment of the "Long March." Attended by pemuda, scouts, and soldiers, this eight-hour march to Denpasar lasts from evening to the early morning. Visit the small museum on the grounds (open 0800-1200) exhibiting uniforms, weapons, documents, photos, battle plans, and remnants of the battle.

KEDIRI AND VICINITY

Alas Kedaton
Four km north of Kediri in Kukuh village is a temple surrounded by a lovely, state-owned sacred forest with cool, peaceful walking paths. In and around the temple cavort more than 700 friendly monkeys, while kalong hang from the treetops. This monkey forest is smaller than Sangeh's, and the monkeys seem better behaved. At least three families live completely separated from one another in the forest.
     On the way to the temple from the parking lot, you'll pass through an art market. The custom now is for a young girl to escort you (tip her Rp500) and help you feed the monkeys. These girls will tell you that they'll get in trouble with the boss if you don't stop by their shop and buy something on the way out. Just laugh and do it. Near Alas Kedaton in the vicinity of Sangeh is Carangsari village, a miniature Ubud with losmen, restaurants, and warung. Beautiful rice fields.

Kediri
Four km south of Tabanan in Kediri is the site of one of Bali's largest cattle markets. Amid a din of human and animal sounds and pungent smells, game cocks, potbellied swine, lumbering oxen, squealing geese, squawking ducks, and soft golden-brown cattle are sold and traded. Other equally animated and exciting cattle markets are held in Bringkit near Kapal and Bebandem near Tirtagangga.
     In Kediri's puri is a particularly honored historical relic, the magic kris of the Javanese priest Nirantha. Known as Jaramenara, this holy object was left with the village headman as a token of Nirantha's gratitude just before the saint went off to Ulu Watu and his final transcendence. Every Kuningan festival the kris is removed and washed in a special ceremony.
     All Ubung (Denpasar)-Gilimanuk bemo pass through Kediri (Rp1000, 30 minutes). The town's bemo terminal is at the junction where the road branches right for Tabanan and Gilimanuk and left for Tanah Lot (12 km to the southwest).

Pejaten
Just four km southwest of Kediri (12 km south of Tabanan) is this small and friendly pottery village of one-story thatch compounds squeezed between two rivers, covering an area of 1.5 square km. Untouched by the modern world, Pejatan has long been known as a center for hand-decorated, wheel-thrown pottery and ceramic roof tiles. The red clay was traditionally mined on village land until it began to run out in the early '80s. In 1985 the villagers started experimenting with high temperature porcelain, and within a few years Pejetan was turning out not only washbasins and pots but porcelain dinner sets, elegant bowls, delicate animal figurines, and open lattice-work filigree vases. High-fired porcelain is much less fragile than traditional terra-cotta. Before long, the ceramic pieces were in high demand at Bali hotels, restaurants, and shops.
     Roof tile-making, however, remains the primary economic activity of about 90% of the town's 4,000 inhabitants. Widely used by the island's building trade, these dull red terra-cotta tiles with reliefs of gods, goddesses, and wayang heroes are patterned after a style first introduced by the painter Kay It. Check out the fanciful ornaments, called jambangan, popularly used to decorate the apex of thatched roofed houses. Pejaten's humorous, grotesque standing clay figures—inspired by the stories of the Ramayana and Mahabharata—decorate gardens and walls all over Bali. A big, jolly, clownish terra-cotta fat man goes for Rp50,000, weighs about 15 kg, but is quite fragile since the sculpture isn't high-fired. You'll also see huge 80-cm unglazed earthen water jars for about the same price. Clay is imported from the Malang area of East Java.
     Smoke from dozens of coconut husk-fueled brick kilns billows from the yards of the village kampung. Any ceramic worker will lead you to one of dozens of workshops. There are only two retail display rooms, open daily 0800-1800, about one-half km from one another. At Tanteri Ceramic's, tel. (0361) 91897, work can be seen in their showrooms in Pejaten and Candidasa and in the Griya Art Market in Sanur. Tanteri's makes the best tiles. Pejaten's other showroom is Pejaten Keramic (ask to see additional inventory in adjoining building). This outfit has its works displayed in Ubud.
     The best pieces are the glazed Chinese-style ceramics with beautiful ornamentation. Look for unique animal shapes—fish, lizards, frogs, turtles, monkeys—which climb out of sugar bowls, lidded bowls, teapots, stopped perfume jars, soap dishes, ashtrays, cups, covered clay glasses, and napkin holders. Colors are flat, pastel shades of gray-green celadon, light blue, or ivory. Order a whole dinner set for six to 12 people, made specifically to your design. As you browse in the showrooms, you realize that prices aren't that cheap: Rp5000-10,000 for simple pieces, Rp45,000 and up for more involved work. And don't expect startling artistic merit—craftspeople in Europe, Australia, and the States are just as original and charge about the same price. These are more curios than art pieces. On hand are factory-produced sure sellers which are duplicated over and over again. Look for the unusual.
     Seven km north of Tanah Lot, Pejetan is easily reached on a narrow, beautiful country road west of the main west-to-east road. Just follow the signs. An even more scenic way is the nine-km back-country road from Krambitan. Head east, cross over the bridge in the dip, then turn right at the intersection to Pejetan via Seronggo (a popular fishing spot), Curah, Sudirmara, Bedha (a large agricultural temple), then Pejetan. Be ready to stop for festivals and ceremonies on the way. After Pejaten, go six km southwest to Tanah Lot for the sunset.

YEH GANGGA

On the beach six km from Tanah Lot is Yeh Gangga ("Holy Water"). Four two-room bungalows and one bungalow with four rooms are offered by Yeh Gangga Beach Bungalows (formerly Bali Wisata). Each room is well furnished, with two beds, fridge, and fan. No air conditioning, but it's breezy. Some bungalows have kitchens. Tariff is Rp40,000-60,000 d, breakfast included. The owners are conscientious, knowledgeable hosts with exemplary attitudes on local culture. The hotel caters mostly to a European clientele. Javanese-style food at reasonable prices is served in the hotel's small dining room (order dinner in the morning), or try the delicious nasi bubur (Rp500) in one of the warung in the village. A spring on the property provides fresh water for the hotel. Watch CNN in the restaurant each evening at 1900, or browse in the library. Free pickup from the airport. For bookings, write Box 131, Tabanan 82101, or fax (0361) 261354.
     The best thing about Yeh Gangga is the location. The bungalows overlook rice fields, cacti, picturesque offshore rocks, and empty Yeh Gangga Beach, where religious processions frequently end. Borrow the hotel's dinghy and explore along the river. You can't swim in the ocean here because the riptide is too dangerous. The hotel has a nice, unchlorinated pool and bathhouse. The whole area is untouristed, and the government won't allow any more hotels to be built here. You can arrange a car from the village. Occasional bemo run from the village 10 km northeast to Tabanan via the hamlet of Geybug.

To Tanah Lot
It's a six km walk (one hour, 20 minutes) southeast along the shore to Tanah Lot. Leave early in the morning so you can cross the river at low tide, then walk along the beach to a cliff where there's a small temple complex that's even more beautiful than Tanah Lot. Descend to the beach again, totally deserted for about one km. On the next cliff, after a few small stores, turn left and follow the stone path to the end of the street, then right, and follow the path parallel to the ocean. Cross a creek, climb a hill, cross a river, and you arrive in Tanah Lot, missing the parking lot, stores, restaurants, entrance fee, and donation. For more walks and bicycle rides in the area, refer to Yeh Gangga Beach Bungalows' photo album and information booklet.

TANAH LOT

Like a delicate Chinese painting, this small, pagoda-like temple 13 km southwest of Tabanan sits on a huge eroded outcropping of rock offshore. Tanah Lot ("Sea Temple of the Earth") is only one of a whole series of splendid sea temples on the south coast of Bali, all paying homage to the guardian spirits of the sea. So that these spirits may be constantly propitiated, allowing pilgrims to walk between them, each temple is visible from the next along the entire southern coastline. On crystal-clear days from Tanah Lot you can just make out Pura Uluwatu.
     Legend has it that the temple was built by one of the last Brahman priests to arrive in Bali from Java, Sanghyang Nirantha, a man remembered for his successful efforts in strengthening the religious beliefs of the populace and for founding several of Bali's most dramatic 16th century sad sanghyang temples. At that time, the area's holy leader, Bendesa Beraben, jealous when his followers joined the newcomer, ordered the Hindu saint to leave. Using his magical powers, Nirantha left by simply moving the rock upon which Tanah Lot is built from the land into the sea, changing his scarf into the sacred snakes that still guard the temple. Later, Bendesa Beraben converted wholeheartedly to Nirantha's teachings.
     Incomparably situated off a black volcanic sand shore, Tanah Lot is one of the most photographed and sketched temples in Asia. Watch the hypnotic sunset from the park opposite the temple, its oddly shaped rock silhouetted against a blood-red sky. Tanah Lot is actually only one reason to come here; this relaxing nearby park is another. Follow the paths to the cliff-top temples in the vicinity—Pura Batu Bolong, Pura Batu Mejan, Beji Taman Sari, Pura Enjung Galuh. There are many vantage points from which to view Tanah Lot, the best from Pura Enjung Galuh on a bluff just west of Tanah Lot.
     The whole site is well-maintained; commercial activities are in keeping with its peaceful isolation, charm and holiness. The tacky souvenir stands are outside the park. A favorite of the multitude of domestic tourists who visit Tanah Lot are the scores of poisonous snakes (ular suci) sleeping in sandy holes just above the waterline along the beach. When the tide is out, they slither into the temple. The locals believe these snakes guard the sanctuary from intruders, and great care must be taken by all who visit the temple not to disturb or anger them. The snakes are the property of the temple's guardian spirit.
     Big crowds come to pray here even though the structures that make up the Tanah Lot complex are actually quite unremarkable, consisting of just two pavilions and two black thatched-roof meru shrines—one with seven-tiers, dedicated to Sanghyang Widi Wasa, and the other with three-tiers, dedicated to Nirantha. Like all Bali temples, Pura Tanah Lot celebrates odalan once every 210 days; the birthday falls close to the festivals of Galungan and Kuningan, when ancestor spirits are invited to visit their family shrines. Four days after Kuningan, Hindus from all over Bali come laden with rice cakes, fruit, carved palm leaf, and holy water to pray to the Hindu gods and goddesses. Women bear towers of votive offerings on their heads, waiting until low tide to safely walk over a concrete-reinforced walkway and up rock-cut steps to the solitary temple. At high tide, when the walkway is submerged, the incoming waves can get pretty ferocious.
     Fees are required to park your vehicle and walk through a gauntlet of souvenir stalls onto the rocky beach opposite the temple (Rp550). Only Hindu devotees may actually climb the temple stairway and enter the grounds. Time your arrival for low tide, which is around noon at times of the full moon. From Tanah Lot a beautiful panorama unfolds as headlands jut out into the sea and heavy surf pounds the rock, throwing spumes of spray high into the sunlit air. To prevent further erosion around the south side of the temple base, unsightly concrete tetrapods have been lowered into the sea by helicopters to help "protect" the temple.

Accommodations and Food
Tanah Lot has enough amenities—postal agent, telcom office, minimarts, moneychanger, restaurants, accommodations—to make for a very comfortable sojourn. During the day, escape from the tourist throngs clambering over the temple by sightseeing elsewhere in Tabanan Regency, returning at night to have the place to yourself, mingling with the small service population of friendly Balinese delighted you came to the temple to stay a few days.
     The closest accommodations to the temple is Mutiara Tanah Lot, tel. (0361) 812939, fax 22672, with eight bungalows facing the sea. Half with air conditioning (Rp92,000 s or d), the other half have fans (Rp80,000 s or d). Price includes breakfast, tax, and service. The restaurant presents a pricey tourist menu. A breezy, quiet, and meditative place to stay. A big complex near the art market is Dewi Sinta Cottages, Box 8, Tabanan 82171, tel. (0361) 812933, which charges Rp50,000 for deluxe, air-conditioned family rooms. The seven non-air-conditioned standard rooms for Rp32,000 are a better deal. Plain but undeniably quiet. Most rooms have private baths, hot water, and shady veranda overlooking sawah. Amenities include safe-deposit boxes, nice grounds, wantilan-style convention hall, sometimes kecak performances at night. See the assistant manager, I Ketut Sudiartana. The Tanah Lot Losmen (Rp10,000 s) is at the entrance of the village opposite the police post. Another losmen, without a name, is located on the other side of the market; only Rp10,000 s or d, bargained down from Rp25,000. The rooms are pedestrian with Indonesian-style, floor-level toilets and no shower, but the place faces the ocean and is incredibly clean. No meals available, but free tea or coffee. On the main road coming into town on the left are a group of drab little fan-cooled bungalows (Rp15,000-20,000) set back from the road behind an art gallery; look for the sign that just says Losmen. There are plenty of cheap, semitourist places to eat like Warung Made; cheapest of all are the warung in the bemo station/parking lot. The Dewi Sinta and Mutiara restaurants are more expensive but still affordable.
     New on the scene—some would call it an ugly and irreverent blight on the scene—is the US$200 million, 121-hectare Bali Nirwana Resort, tel. (0361) 5705021, fax 4705030. Complete with 156 five-star luxury Rp655,000 villas, championship golf course, thalassotherapy spa, racquet sports center, and shopping complex. Basic units start at Rp200,000.

Getting There and Away
The most scenic way to reach Tanah Lot is to walk at low tide six hours (14 km one way) up and back from Kuta. Wear a bathing suit, as the rivermouths along the way can be forded. Time your arrival for Tanah Lot's spectacular sunset. You can also reach the temple by driving from Denpasar toward Tabanan and Negara, then taking a left (southwest) at Kediri's stoplight down a side road that leads after nine km to Tanah Lot's parking lot. Tanah Lot is about an hour's drive and 31 km to the northwest of Denpasar.
     Most of the travel agents in Bali's major resorts include Tanah Lot as an almost de rigueur stop. Minibuses and bemo depart Denpasar's Ubung Station for Kediri (Rp1000, 30 minutes), from where you take bemo onward to Tanah Lot (Rp600, nine km, 30 minutes). Bemo departures slow down in the afternoons, so if you want to arrive by sunset you might have to consider alternate transport. When you're ready to return to Denpasar or Kuta, don't wait too long after 1600 to get a bemo back to Kediri so you can connect with another bemo to Denpasar. Otherwise you might have to charter a ride on the back of a motorbike, or walk. If you're staying overnight at Tanah Lot, be aware there are no public bemo until 1100. Just start walking and someone will pick you up, for a fee, of course. It takes about three hours to return to Kuta by public transport.

Vicinity of Tanah Lot
Within walking distance is a serene beach to the west called Pantai Nyanyi, with black sand, big waves, and beautiful views, especially during the full moon. About 13 km from Tabanan. About an hour's walk away, Kedungu and Yeh Gangga are nice beaches along a jagged coastline northwest of Tanah Lot toward Negara.

KRAMBITAN DISTRICT

Six km west of Tabanan is Krambitan, a small district located in a prosperous agricultural region. Terraced rice fields surround the district's villages. If you hear of any ceremonies taking place in the countryside, drop everything and go out to see them.
     The main village is Krambitan, about eight km southwest of Tabanan (Rp500 by bemo). Though it lacks an inexpensive losmen, this village makes an excellent base from which to visit Tanah Lot, Mengwi, Pejaten, Alas Kedaton, Gunung Batukau, and Bedugul. Five km to the south of Krambitan village are the black-sand beaches of Pasut and Klating. Located on either side of the mouths of two rivers, these beaches are clean and graced with native jukung.

Krambitan Village
Not by accident is the name Krambitan derived from the Sanskrit karawitan, which means "art, music, and dance." This small, attractive village is renowned for its classical literature, legong dancing, wayang-style painting, stone- and woodcarving, and a tektekan orchestra believed to have magical powers.
     The painters of the village belong to a school begun by Gusti Wayang Kopang and I Macong in the 1930s. The style is similar to that of Kamasan except that the teeth and the costumes are depicted differently. Ask the friendly villagers the way to the unique Luhur Ulun Desa temple dating from the neolithic period.
     Krambitan was the seat of a branch of one of the old ruling triwangsa houses of Tabanan, the legendary court of Arya Kenceng. The village still contains old-style residences, as well as two treasure-filled 17th century gilded palaces, Puri Gede and Puri Anyar, lovingly restored by the family of the puri. Cultural programs and dinners have been presented here since 1967. Identical twin grandsons—Anak Agung Ngurah Oka Silagunadha or "Pak Oka" and Anak Agung Rai Giri Gunadhi or "Pak Rai"—of the late king preside over the palaces. The two princes are the ninth generation of royalty to occupy the palace, with Pak Oka designated as head of family because his birth preceded his brother's by 30 minutes. Inside the puri traditional dancing and arts are kept very much alive. The puri also arranges special tourist events such as traditional-style dinner parties accompanied by legong, tektekan, and joged performances. Overnight guests are welcome in Puri Anyar, gamelan lessons can be arranged, and you are invited to join the village's lontar-reading or kite-flying clubs.

Puri Anyar
Inside the royal compound are peaceful gardens, pavilions with unusual gold-plated carvings, and many charming traditional buildings filled with well-preserved antiques and art objects. In perfect harmony with this setting, Pak Oka maintains an unmistakable royal bearing. Ask him to show you his "celebrity" corner in the family living quarters; on the wall are framed photographs of Pak Oka with all the distinguished guests who've visited the palace—King Hussein, Prince Bartiel of Sweden, Kurt Waldheim, Mick Jagger, David Bowie, and that of a famous kabuki dancer.
     The bale gong (concert hall) in front of the puri houses art work, the royal orchestra, and an impressive collection of musical instruments, kris, and sacred masks. On the right as you enter the puri is a courtyard containing the family shrines, embedded with Chinese and Dutch porcelain and tiles. One rare blue Delft piece dates from the Napoleonic period; Bonaparte can be seen on horseback.

Tektekan
Not actually a dance but a procession of men carrying bamboo split drums and giant cowbells around their necks, this classical, very old orchestra is played to exorcize malignant spirits when an epidemic, serious drought, or pestilence befalls the village. The ceremony accompanies the Calon Arang, a legend dating from the 10th century in Java. Puri Anyar's tektekan is made of bamboo, whereas the typical Balinese kebyar gong is made of bronze. This unique ensemble marches through the village only on the day before the Balinese New Year, whenever an exorcism is required, on certain auspicious days, or by special order of the raja when a tourist bus arrives. The drama must be accompanied by blood sacrifices (a small chicken or duck) at both the beginning and end.

Puri Night
Your inestimable host Pak Oka puts on monster banquets for as many as 300 Dutch cruise passengers, or big groups of Italians, French, or Germans who really lap it up. This magical evening begins with tektekan dancers carrying enormous tick-tocking cowbells and lighted torches greeting buses full of astonished European tourists. Behind the men are lines of maidens performing a welcoming dance.
     The guests are then invited into the second open-air courtyard to seat themselves around the central cempaka tree at candlelit tables with young coconut leaf settings. Delicious Indo-Chinese food is brought in by a procession of servers. This buffet dinner (pay extra for beer) is the ultimate dining experience for those who like Balinese food served in the traditional manner. After dinner, the guests are invited to dance the joged. What follows is one of the most mesmerizing kris dances on the island, a version of the Calon Arang legend performed to the beat of hypnotically tuned bamboo tubes. To drive away the demons, some of the players become entranced, arm themselves with kris, and attack Rangda. The last part of the dance can be so dangerous no one is allowed to use a flash for fear of snapping the dancers out of their deep state of trance. Half the village is there looking on.
     Taking place about three times a month, this special event is usually reserved for private parties only. With permission, individuals may attend a large, already-booked Puri Night paying separately, or commission a private performance with dinner. For more information, contact Pak Oka at tel. (0361) 812774 or Mr. Ajus Erawan, Jl. Anyelir 23, Denpasar, tel./fax (0361) 233774.

Accommodations
Treat yourself to an amazing stay in one of 12 rooms (including four princely rooms) in the maze of Puri Anyar, a fully functioning Balinese palace. The full-board tariff is Rp175,000 for a whole bungalow, or Rp46,000 for one room in a bungalow with garden mandi, hot water, fan, and a big four-poster bed. One ornate, gold-leaf decorated bungalow is called the royal pavilion and features a bathroom with a cascading waterfall. Breakfast is included, lunch is Rp16,000, dinner Rp25,000. Pak Rai may take you kite-flying on the beach with a packed lunch, or you can jog in the countryside north and west of Krambitan. For bookings, contact Pak Rai at his office at Jl. Surapati 7, tel. (0361) 812668. Book in advance with a tour agent or through the tourist office in Denpasar. If they're full, you can still attend a Puri Night.

Vicinity of Krambitan
One km to the west of Krambitan is Tista, a village renowned for its unique version of the legong—legong leko, which is only danced around Tabanan. In this social dance, two tiny leko dancers wearing legong dress and headdresses are accompanied by the melodies of the janger.
     Unusual and slightly incongruous is Penyalin's, a Chippendale furniture factory located close to where the road to Krambitan leaves the main road to Gilimanuk. The showroom features tables, chairs with velvet cushions, rolltop writing desks. The pieces are mostly carved by hand, though there is some routing work; high prices.
     Two km south of Krambitan is Panarukan, a village known for its many fine wood and stone sculptors and a smaller version of tektekan. Visit the studio of Panarukan's most famous native son, the modern painter Ajin Ida Putu Cegeg. Only two km beyond Panarukan is the wide and empty black-sand beach of Klatingdukuh, offering fine views of the coast. Follow the road about nine km southwest of Krambitan to wide, quiet, black-sand Pasut Beach with waves up to three meters high. At the beach, turn southeast and walk 20 km to Tanah Lot.

Tibubiyu
The ceremonies in the tidy traditional village of Tibubiyu, four km beyond Krambitan, are almost unceasing. As in days of old, performances take place right on the street. Tektekan dances can be arranged for groups of eight or more. Tibubiyu consists of 300 families who grow rice and vegetables. This village doesn't even have an eating warung, only one small stall that sells cigarettes, salt, coffee, drinks, and batteries; no newspapers or telephones. The market takes place daily at 0500.
     BeeBees Restaurant and Bungalows is undoubtedly one of the best traveler's hotels on Bali. Run by Australian artist Barbara Miller and partner Dewa Made Suamba Negara, these six rustic yet comfortable lumbung-style thatched bungalows with garden bathrooms are set in an attractive compound. The tariff is Rp32,000 s, Rp40,000 d, including a breakfast of coffee, fruit, and toast. Book directly through BeeBees, Tibubiyu, Krambitan, Tabanan 82161; Denpasar fax (0361) 36021.
     Bee Bee's open-air restaurant looks out over a broad expanse of rice fields stretching to the sea. The menu offers most Indonesian standard meals plus Western breakfasts. Its strength, though, are the delicious Balinese entrees like tum and gundo. Try the Village Combination (Rp2000), a vegetarian nasi campur. The drink list includes small bottles of Balinese brem (Rp2000), ginger tea (Rp800), and brandy coffee (Rp1000). Check the blackboard for three-course daily specials (Rp8000), usually pork or chicken. Not a place for pub-crawlers; this is the gentle side of Bali. Groups of painters attend painting workshops here. There's always a cooling breeze, and in the evenings you often need a jacket. A bucket of hot water is offered to guests at shower time. Ask the Queen Bee to fetch Pak Guru Rasin, who gives superb traditional massages (Rp5000). Laundry service available. Airport transfers arranged on request, Rp40,000 for a chartered bemo, 46 km, 1.5 hours. The village bemo driver often comes by BeeBees early in the morning to see if anyone wants to go to Denpasar.
     Getting Away: Take local bemo on the main street of the village to Ubung Station in Denpasar (Rp2000) or Tabanan (Rp1000). From Bee Bees, follow the path through rice fields (10-minute walk) to the well-formed beach—fine, glistening, diamond dust black sand, with really high surf and not a structure or vendor in sight.

LALANG LINGGAH

Beautiful, unspoilt Balian Beach Bungalows lies near the village of Lalang Linggah, 50 km west of Denpasar on Bali's main south coast highway. Situated in a six-acre coconut plantation beside the estuary of the Balian River and within 500 meters of the Indian Ocean, this tranquil area offers excellent river swimming, surfing, miles of uninhabited coastline, fishing villages, and friendly, unaffected locals. The complex has 24-hour electricity, a small bar and restaurant, superb gardens overlooking Bali's biggest river, and a helpful staff. One of the most peaceful losmen on Bali. For reservations, call (0361) 234138, ext. 2842.
     The Balian offers a range of accommodations, from dormitory-style bunk beds to bungalows supported on piles. The tariff includes simple breakfast. In the losmen block (Rp15,000 s, Rp20,000 d), each room has its own mandi and WC; each pair of rooms—one overlooking the river, the other the valley behind—shares a balcony. Another stilted bungalow overlooking the river is Rp25,000 s, Rp40,000 d. The Balai Gede (nicknamed Honeymoon Suite) is a traditional building with a huge platform bed. It affords the best view across the river and down to the sea (Rp40,000 s or d). Other similarly priced units face the sea. One two-room suite for Rp50,000 is suitable for a large family. Plastic accepted. Enjoy Western/Indonesian fare at the Balian's inviting restaurant. Or try Made's Warung one km west; reach it from the road at the small desa of Surabrata (take a left at the surfboard). Made uses all the surfie four-letter words, a great place to hang out while enjoying jaffles, noodles, and cold soda.
     The Balian is not for ragers or low-budget travelers. Some comments in the guestbook: "Big Waves, No Babes!" and "Watch out for bats in your room!" Most of the guests appreciate the quiet, the lack of even one seller on one of the best beaches on Bali just a 10-minute walk away, and the simple beauty of the surroundings. The locale is noticeably cooler as it gets sea breezes all day, which helps keep the mosquitoes down. Though the area is too rough to swim in, the Balian River turns into a blue lagoon in the dry season and offers clean, refreshing swimming.
     Visit the small village on the coast at the mouth of the river; the inhabitants make salt and collect rocks. Also visit the fishing village at one end of the bay. If you venture around the point, you'll find a multitude of caves, tunnels, and small bays. Explore the area on foot or rent a mountain bike at the Balian.
     All bemo from Denpasar's Ubung station pass by Lalang Linggah (Rp1500, 1.5 hours). All buses from Java to Denpasar pass the front gate; ask the driver to stop just over the bridge on the Balian River. Or take advantage of the shuttle leaving Kuta from Sea Water Sport on Jl. Legian opposite the Bounty every Wednesday and Sunday at 1400 (Rp5000). From Lovina, catch a bemo to Seririt and on to Pupuan, then continue south around Gunung Batukau to Antosari or Pulukan, both on the main Denpasar-Gilimanuk highway. Lalang Linggah is 10 km west of Antosari and 20 km east of Pulukan. Take the Balian's transport service, or a public bemo into Tabanan (Rp1000, 29 km), Negara (Rp1000, 55 km), or Gilimanuk (Rp2000).