History
The regency has a lively history. Records indicate it came under the
suzerainty of King Airlangga in 1037. When Majapahit invaded Bali in A.D.
1343, the territory was allotted to one of Gajah Mada's field generals,
Arya Kenceng. Tabanan's classical period was in the 17th century and included
the founding of the main puri by Raja Singasana. Tabanan, Mengwi,
and Penebel were almost constantly at war until 1891 when Mengwi was defeated
by the princes of Tabanan and Badung. Through a series of court intrigues,
assassinations, truces, and marriages, the principal houses of the district—Kaleren
and Krambitan—were formed in the 19th century. When the Dutch conquered
Bali in the early 20th century, they captured the king and crown prince
(who committed suicide while in captivity), sacked the Tabanan palace,
and exiled most of the surviving royalty to Lombok. The Dutch controller's
office was established right in front of Puri Kaleran, but it was the outcaste
marriage of a high-ranking princess that finished the kingdom for good.
Since the rajadom had not entered into an agreement with the Dutch, the
heirs lost their titles and lands, which were parceled out to the regency's
banjar. Some historians believe this early redistribution of land
to the peasants accounts for Tabanan's prosperous rice economy today. In
1929, the Dutch reorganized Bali's kingdoms into eight regencies, restoring
the raja's titles and authority, a status that lasted until 1950, when
Sukarno abolished Indonesia's royalty with the stroke of a pen.
The Arts
Although the rajas of Tabanan's royal houses lost political power in
the early 1900s, they continued to support the arts. Their palaces have
long been famous for gamelan, dance, and drama groups. The regency's
most famous native son was I Ketut Mario, the consummate dancer and choreographer
who dominated Bali's performing arts in the 1920s and '30s. The solo kebyar
dance, which he created, is still widely performed. In the seated version,
the dancer not only exhibits his skill as a graceful contortionist but
also his mastery of the music, parodying every nuance and mood of the gamelan
rhythm. Tabanan's large concert hall, Gedung Mario, built in 1973, is named
after this genius. Commemorative performances are held there each year
in his honor.
The Chinese-Balinese painter and batik
artist Kay It was one of Bali's most promising and unique painters until
his sudden death in 1977 at age 39. Born to a family of shopkeepers in
Tabanan, It's brilliant, modern, impressionist painting style was full
of life and movement. He was also a master of clay and ceramics, which
he learned from the villagers of Pejaten. Today you can see its ceramics
and tall totem poles on the grounds of the Bali Hyatt Hotel in Sanur. Its
continuing influence can also be seen in the designs of household ceramics
for sale in the markets of Bali. View his paintings at the Art Center in
Abiankapas in Denpasar and at the Neka Gallery in Ubud.
Events
A genuine Balinese feast is put on for tourists about three times monthly
in Krambitan's Puri Anyar. Every year a purification ceremony (melasti)
occurs several days before Nyepi, and every five years a much grander exorcism
is held in which thousands of youngsters march from Gunung Batukau to the
sea. Don't miss the splendid odalan every 210 days at Tanah Lot,
when dances are performed on the beach below Beraban village opposite the
offshore temple.
Beaches
It seems that every side road in Tabanan ends in a deserted, steep,
beautiful black-sand beach. Enjoy stunning views of the sea with the mountains
and rice terraces behind—no dogs, no tourists, not even a fisherman. Drawbacks,
if you're not a surfer, are the three-meter-high waves and lethal undertows.
French and Italian joint venture companies plan to develop the best of
these beaches; hotels have already gone up at Yeh Gangga, Beraban, Kelating,
and Soka. Big waves crash over black sand at Kedungu Beach, west of Tanah
Lot. Nice views, beautiful rice terraces, and a Japanese golf course nearby.
Thirteen km from Tabanan is long, wide Kelating Beach, with big rolling
waves and beautiful panoramas.
Pasut Beach, near Sungai Ho and Pura Segara,
is a quiet beach lying 14 km southwest of Tabanan. The Ho River is navigable
by small sampan. Northwest of Pasut (24 km from Tabanan) is Beraban Beach,
which offers excellent budget accommodations. Even more isolated, with
great views and rice terraces, is Kelecung Beach west of Beraban. The most
westerly of Tabanan's beaches is Soka, between Antosari and Lalang Linggah.
The rocks said to be the pot and old kitchen of Kebo Iwa, the legendary
figure who carved Gunung Kawi.