GUNUNG AGUNG

This sacred mountain is to the Balinese what Olympus was to the ancient Greeks—the Cosmic Mountain. The Balinese, who consider this volcano "the Navel of the World," always sleep with their heads toward Agung. The mystical Balinese believe the mountain was raised by the gods as a vantage point to view the unceasing pageant of life below. To them, it is a central, heavenly point of reference, the geographical and religious center of the world. With an elevation of 3,014 meters, the foot of the mountain stretches northeast right to the sea. To the southeast its slope is blocked by a line of small extinct volcanoes; to the northwest Agung is separated from Gunung Batur by a narrow valley.
     When you fly into Bali, you'll see the shadowy outline of the giant blue-black mountain dominating the landscape. Early in the morning its conical peak can be seen poking through the clouds from almost any part of Bali. Whether in the bright sunshine or moonlight, a stream of clouds on the crest always trails off in the wind. From the summit, you can see Pura Besakih, Gunung Rinjani on Lombok to the east, and Singaraja and the whole north coast.
     The gods rest above the mountain summit, and when they come down to visit the island they reside in Bali's holiest temple complex, Besakih, six km below the crater. When the gods are displeased, Agung showers the land with stone and ruin. Its feathery heights are the source of life-giving rivers and volcanic ash which irrigate and enrich the island's rice fields. The lower portions of the mountain are heavily forested, and farmed up to about 1,000 meters.

History
A major eruption in 1350 so fertilized the land around Besakih that year after year it has yielded enough rice to not only supply the needs of the complex but also defray the costs of the unending ceremonies staged in the mountain's honor. Agung's most recent eruption occurred in the closing years of the turbulent Sukarno regime, in 1963. The cataclysm began during the greatest of Balinese ceremonies, Eka Dasa Rudra, an exorcism of evil staged only once every 100 years. Except for minor activity in 1808 and 1843, this was the first time the sacred volcano had blown since 1350.
     Many people looked upon the disaster as a divine condemnation of the ill-fated Sukarno regime, and the subsequent failure of crops, uprooting of villages, and forced evacuation of 86,000 people contributed substantially to the communal clashes and massacres during the so-called purge of Indonesian "communists" in 1966. Because empty land for the evacuees was no longer available on Bali, the consequences of overpopulation became acute for the first time in the island's history. No longer could farmers move temporarily to another part of the island, later returning to a land covered in fresh, fertile ash. Thousands were instead resettled in transmigrasi camps in central Sulawesi.
     Few scars remain today. Until well into the 1970s the countryside northeast of Klungkung was blackened by lava streams, but the region is now replanted with fields and gardens. Remnants of the massive eruption are still visible in the Tianyar and Kubu areas on the northeast coast, the least populated region of Karangasem. Agung remains semi-active, and volcanologists in Rendang and Batulompeh continue to keep a wary eye on it.

CLIMBING THE MOUNTAIN

In the dry season, between April and October, the fit and adventuresome can attempt the ascent of Gunung Agung. It's exhausting, and can be downright dangerous. Climbers have become lost, never to be found. Don't climb alone, and bring a flashlight, water, warm clothes, an umbrella (a necessity), and trail food. Because of sharp grass, long pants are also a good idea. Good hiking shoes with nonslip soles are a must for the final steep scramble over loose scree to the summit. Since there are innumerable trails leading skyward, particularly in the early part of the climb, you should have a guide. The cost depends on the number of people in your group. Some guides will carry your pack; some will furnish food and water.

From Besakih Temple
The most popular route begins on the trail to the right of Pura Besakih, from Pura Pengubengan, the farthest temple in the Besakih complex. This is a difficult six-km climb to Agung's usually cloudy peak. If a religious festival is in progress, you may not be permitted to climb. Leave no later than 0630 if you don't want clouds to obscure the view from the top. If you want to catch the sunrise from the top, start no later than 0200. After climbing about 1.5 km past some houses, you come upon a meru temple at about 1,200 meters, where it's possible to sleep. From this point on, the slippery path through thick vegetation suddenly grows steeper; after two more hours it becomes steeper still. After three hours, the terrain changes from humid jungle to a slope of bare, rubbly volcanic debris and slick rock. Just before the tree line camp overnight at the holy spring of Tirta Mas. In the morning climb the last two hours to the summit. For the final assault you must literally crawl, scramble, and pull yourself up through a lava field. By sunrise you'll reach the windy two-meter-wide summit ridge, a frightening place with icy wind and thin air—a place where people are not meant to linger. Camp on broad ledges sheltered by large slabs of rock. Allow at least four hours to get back down.

From Muncan
The southern approach to the summit, the other popular starting point, is four km east of Rendang. As you enter Muncan village from the east you'll see a blue sign reading Mountain Guide Available/For Hire to Mt. Agung. The guide, I Ketut Uriada (in Dusun Pemuhunan), is a guru in the school a short distance away. Stay in Ketut's home for Rp5000, plus Rp2000 for meals. Ketut asks Rp30,000-50,000, depending on the size of group, plus vehicle charter (Rp50,000 roundtrip) to Pura Pasar Agung. Start by flashlight no later than 0300; under normal conditions you'll return to Muncan in the evening while it's still light.

From Sebudi
A third well-worn route starts above the small 900-meters-high village of Sebudi on the southern slopes of Agung, about 2,100 meters below the summit. This is an easier and shorter route up Agung than from Besakih. Take a car or bemo (Rp500) from Rendang to the small agricultural village of Selat (elev. 500 meters), four km east of Muncan. Let the police in Selat know your route (Rp3000 fee); check in with them again when you get back. At the start of the village (coming from Putung) is Puri Agung Cottage with nine rooms (Rp20,000-40,000), used mostly by BLKP students. The front and most expensive room over the street is poor value. No breakfast included in price, just coffee or tea.
     From Selat, allow several hours for the five-km drive north on a rocky lava road to Sebudi, where you can view a monument to the 1963 eruption. The "road" ends about four km beyond Sebudi in the desa of Sorga, the farthest point you can reach by motorcycle or four-wheel-drive vehicle. It's possible to leave your transport and other gear with the local people; you might also spend the night here. This trailhead is also your last chance to hire a guide for the rest of the way up the mountain—well worth the price since trails are so poorly marked. Fit climbers can complete the whole ascent in a single day. If you begin the climb from Sebudi by 0730, stop for lunch two-thirds of the way up at around 1200, you'll reach the summit at 1330. Head down by 1430 so you can arrive in Sorga by 1730 for the drive back to Selat.
     From Sorga you walk about an hour along streambeds to Sangkawasa; it's possible to stay the night here in Pura Pasar Agung, a small temple built on the last level area before the really steep part of the climb. See the pemangku and don't forget to make a donation (Rp5000) for a safe climb. Next come boulders and a dense pine stand. The trail is not well defined and you'll learn now to appreciate your guide. In an hour you reach a small, stony valley with a spring, the last chance for water. At 2,000 meters you leave the tree line and at 3,000 meters you can peer into the 500-meter-deep crater through a gap in the fragile wall. Since standing on the volcano's crumbling edge is madness, lie flat and hang over the sharp rim to look down on steam, smoke, and multihued rocks while breathing in a strong whiff of sulfur.
     With an outer wall-to-wall diameter of 625 by 425 meters, a crater floor of 250 by 125 meters, and an elevation of 2,700 meters, this scarred crater is impressive. The summit, out of sight and to the west, is only about 20 meters higher than the edge of the crater—another 20-minute hike. Take a good look before you forsake this hostile environment of bitter cold and icy winds. Resist gravity's pull when slipping and sliding over loose volcanic rubble on your way back down; descending too fast is dangerous. A sturdy staff is an invaluable aid.

BESAKIH

Bali's oldest, largest, most impressive and austere temple complex sits one-third the way up the slopes of Gunung Agung. Besakih, actually consisting of three temple compounds, is the Mother Temple of Bali and the most important of the island's sad-kahyangan religious shrines. It's Bali's supreme holy place, the essence of all Bali's 20,000 temples, a symbol of religious unity, and the only temple that serves all Balinese. Even though it's touristy, it's still spectacular—good energy!
     Get an early start so you arrive about 0800, before the tourist hordes, when the top of the massive volcano behind Besakih is clear. Plan to leave before early afternoon rains. From Besakih, head down the hill to Pesaban, south of Rendang to the west, to the Garden Restaurant at Bukit Jambul for its afternoon Indo/Chinese buffet (Rp12,000). Look out over rice terraces all the way to the sea. Outside the restaurant, tour buses clog the highway. Or pause at the beautiful Kuri Agung restaurant about one km south of Besakih temple. A huge place with expensive views and great food at reasonable prices.
     If you want to stay overnight in the Besakih area, on the road between Menanga and Desakih is the Arca Valley Restaurant and Homestay, Rp 15,000-20,000 for spartan rooms, or ask around for homestays at the shops and stalls on the road up from the parking lot to the temple. Eat reasonably well at the Arca Valley or at RM Mawar in Menanga.

History
Besakih was built on a terraced site where prehistoric rites, ceremonies, and feasts once took place. Perhaps it was here where the spirit of the great, angry mountain, which loomed menacingly above the island, received pagan sacrifices. Certain timeworn megaliths in some of the bale are reminiscent of old Indo-Polynesian structures.
     Hindu theologians claim the temple was founded by the 8th century missionary Danghyang Markandeye, a priest credited with introducing the tradition of daily offerings (bebali) and the concept of a single god. His son, Empu Sang Kulputih, was the temple's first high priest.
     The first record of the temple's existence is a chronogram dated A.D. 1007, possibly describing the death ritual for King Udayana's queen, Mahendradatta. This inscription also reveals that Besakih was used as a Buddhist sanctuary. Lontar books dating from the Majapahit Kingdom indicate Besakih's significance during the 14th century, and several 15th-century wood tablets refer to state support of Besakih, confirming its preeminence.
     Besakih's central Pura Penataran Agung, the largest on the island, functioned as a funeral temple for the Gelgel dynasty's deified kings and as the central state temple for the entire island. Gelgel rulers are today enshrined in their own temple here, the Padharman Dalem. For centuries worship at Besakih was the exclusive privilege of rajas, not commoners, and the difficult trek here in former times reinforced the ardor of the devotional act.
     The great 1917 earthquake destroyed the temple complex, but it was subsequently restored by the Dutch to its original form (only two structures survived this quake). Besakih was again heavily damaged on 17 March 1963 by a Gunung Agung eruption. The complex has since been extensively restored and now encompasses a mix of old and new buildings. Because it is a state shrine, the provincial and national governments pay for its upkeep.

Layout and Design
Besakih is a very complex architectural structure venerating the holy Hindu trinity. Via a series of long stairways, the temple group ascends parallel ridges toward Gunung Agung, the honored birthplace of Bali's deities, tantamount to heaven. The temple is continually enlarged as municipalities, regencies, and wealthy honored Brahman families add more shrines. In fact, each caste and kin group, as well as various sects, artisan guilds, and artistocratic families, maintains its own temple inside the complex. About 22 separate sanctuaries contain a befuddling array of over 60 temples and 200 distinct structures (a map is posted at the top of the road leading from the parking lot). Given the Balinese passion for covering surfaces with carving or paint, it's remarkable most of Besakih's sanctuaries are constructed simply of wood.
     The sun-god (Bhatara Surya), the god of the sea (Ratu Waruna), and every major figure in the Balinese pantheon is represented here. Each of the island's nine regencies also maintains its own temple within this complex. Curiously, the small, relatively inconsequential rajadoms like Blahbutuh and Sukawati are assigned proportionally large sections, while major regencies like Badung and Gianyar are meagerly represented. The historical importance of the negara of Gelgel is evident, however, by its assignment to the innermost, central courtyard.
     Beyond a great unadorned split gate, a broad terrace leads to a gapura, which opens onto 50 black, slender, pagodalike meru temples. The more roofs, the higher-ranking the god or deified ancestor to whom the meru is dedicated. Long flights of stone steps lead to the main central temple, Pura Penataran Agung, which consists of six rising terraces built on a slope, all connected by gateways. In the third inner court of the central temple is the sanggar agung, a beautifully decorated 17th-century triple lotus stone throne representing the divine triad. This is the ritual center of Besakih. Through the clear, fresh air of the topmost terrace, over 900 meters above sea level, is an unsurpassed view over spectacular rice terraces. Behind, thick white clouds hover over Gunung Agung.
     Besakih's three main temples, which stretch for over a kilometer, are Pura Penataran Agung (in the symbolic center), dedicated to the paramount god Shiva, or Sanghyang Widhi Wasa; Pura Kiduling Kreteg, honoring Brahma; and Pura Batu Medog, dedicated to Vishnu. The longitudinal axis of this complex points directly kaja, toward Gunung Agung's peak to the northeast.
     Farther up the mountain is another compound, Pura Gelap, the "Thunderbolt Temple." Highest, in the pine forests of Agung's southwest slope, is austere Pura Pengabengan.

Ceremonies and Events
Because so many gods, regencies, and old Bali clans are represented here, there's always something going on. About 70 rituals are held regularly at Besakih's different shrines, with banners representing each god hung on or near the temple and long lines of women walking up the terraces, their heads piled high with offerings.
     A visit to the sanctuaries of Besakih is a special pilgrimage each Balinese must undertake periodically. They return with holy water for use in ceremonies back home. A visit to Besakih is also required to properly consecrate the soul of a dead relative as a family god in the house temple.
     Each of Besakih's temples has its own odalan, and on the full moon of the 10th lunar month, vast crowds pack the entire compound to celebrate the visit of the gods (turun kabeh); this rite also commemorates Besakih's founding. During Galungan, enormous throngs of pilgrims turn Besakih into a hive of activity. An important island-wide Water Opening ceremony also occurs here, long-nailed priests dramatically gesticulating, sprinkling holy water, ringing tinkling bells.
     The most majestic event is held only once every 100 years, the spectacular Eka Desa Rudra, a purification ceremony in which harmony and balance in people and nature are restored in all 11 directions. The rite last occurred in March 1963, some 16 years before the proper date, apparently because Sukarno wished to impress a convention of travel agents. Midway through the opulent ceremony, Gunung Agung began to shower the whole area with ash and smoke, finally exploding in its most violent eruption in 600 years. Earthquakes toppled temples, hot ash ignited thatched roofs, volcanic debris rained upon the earth. As the molten lava moved toward them, Hindu priests prayed frantically, hoping to appease the angry gods, assuring worshippers they had nothing to fear. In the end, 1,600 Balinese were killed and 86,000 left homeless. The Balinese don't take such extraordinary coincidences lightly; the catastrophe was attributed to the wrath of the god Shiva in his most evil aspect as Rudra. It ultimately became a damning judgment on the entire Sukarno era. Miraculously, the flaming lava flowed around Besakih, sparing most of the temple, though shrouding it with black ash for months.
     The ceremony was held again in 1979, this time on a Saka year and with all the proper officiations. The sacrifice of an elephant, a tiger, an eagle, and 77 other animals seemed to do the trick—Eka Desa Rudra was completed without incident, and Besakih reestablished its place as the principal Hindu sanctuary in Indonesia.

Services
There's a tourist office on a corner of the parking lot that doesn't dispense much literature but adroitly answers questions. You'll also find a small post office, Wartel, and Bank Rakyat Indonesia (terrible rates) in the parking lot.

Warnings
Bring your change purse, as every device imaginable to separate tourists from their rupiah is in full operation here. One reader reports declining to rent a sarung offered for a preposterous Rp5000—you can buy a sarung for Rp8000. Little children approach quite sweetly, lay a flower in your lap, then demand money. The merits of the site are nearly outweighed by the swarms of hawkers, touts, beggars, and vendors. First they sting you for parking (Rp300), then when you sign the guestbook you're pestered for an inflated donation (Rp10,000-30,000 but just give Rp500), then they hit you for a ticket (Rp1100) to the temple grounds. Arrive as early as possible to experience the temple at its best (open 0800-1700).

Getting There
Besakih is about a two-hour (61 km) drive northeast of Denpasar, or one hour (18 km) northeast of Klungkung. On holidays take a bemo or minibus directly from the small terminal just north of Klungkung (Rp1000). At other times take one first from Klungkung via Rendang to Menanga (Rp750), then another up the steep six-km climb (Rp500) to the Besakih parking lot. Or get a bemo to Rendang (Rp600), then travel another nine km up the road to Besakih.
     If you're coming from the north, take it slow over the potholed road from Penelokan, which begins along the route to Abang. From the Besakih parking lot, walk 600 meters past souvenir stalls, drink stands, and pay toilets (or ride on the back of a motorcycle, Rp2000 if you bargain) to the start of the stairway up to the main sanctuary. The walk is a steady gradual grade.
     Even though it's a place for Hindu ancestor worship, non-Hindus may still enter the temple itself if they bring an offering or pay for an offering (Rp1000). You may also walk around the entire complex. There are a number of vantage points where you can peer inside and try to guess what's going on. Well-informed and friendly students will volunteer themselves as guides. About Rp2000 is adequate, but always agree on a price beforehand. After 1400, it may be difficult to find a public bemo back down to Klungkung.