Accommodations
Part of Padangbai's charm is its inns and restaurants run by humble fisherfolk turned overnight entrepreneurs. Though the land is potentially very valuable, there are no international chains or fancy beach inns here. The accommodations opposite the beach have a quiet rhythm, and you get some of the best "included" breakfasts in Indonesia. Most places rent snorkeling equipment, change money, and sell miniature prahu. Get your room as early in the day as possible; accommodations fill up fast with travelers going to and from Lombok. The latest gimmick in Pandangbai is "sweet water" showers—since water from most of the village wells is salty, this means the establishment offers salt-free water.
     Probably the cheapest place to stay is Marco's—only Rp5000 s w/breakfast, full of interesting travelers, and right on the beach. Perhaps the best value is the clean, three-story Pantai Ayu Homestay, characterized by brightly painted doors built into the side of a hill. Downstairs rooms go for Rp10,000 s, Rp15,000 d, while the tariff for the six upstairs rooms is Rp15,000 s, Rp20,000 d. Corner kamar no. 4 is the best. All rooms with mandi. The top floor features a restaurant serving Padangbai's only homemade ice cream, including exotic flavors like nutmeg. Cool breezes. The only drawback to Pantai Ayu is that it's 300 meters from the beach.
     In the center of town on Jl. Pelabuhan (tel. 0366-35393) near the harbor gate and close to the Perama office is the town's original Hotel Madya, not luxurious but okay. Rooms without mandi run Rp6000 d; the most expensive of the 31 rooms costs Rp10,000 d with mandi. Those facing the street are the noisiest, but from the balcony, you can watch life on the street. No meals, safety deposit box, frequented by Indonesian traders. The Serangan Beach Inn is a nice, central place with eight rooms at Rp15,000 each. A beautiful rooftop open-air lounge looking out over the harbor.
     Johnny's Homestay lies behind the post office. Rooms are secure but overpriced, with mandi and small fans. Johnny, an ex-cook with the colonial KPM steamship line, is a real character, as are his singing pet birds. Dharma Homestay, on a small lane just off the beach, has 10 rooms: five new rooms with mandi for Rp10,000 s, Rp15,000 d; five old ones for Rp5000 s, Rp8000 d.
     Owned by Nyoman and Poppi Chin, the rambling Topi Inn and Restaurant on Jl. Silayukti at the north end of the beach is a large chalet-like wooden building with five rooms running Rp7000 s, Rp10,000 d with breakfast. The dormitory, which sleeps 20-29, just might be the cheapest accommodation on Bali (Rp3000 per person) with a genuine "backpacker's atmosphere" in the great open veranda upstairs. Fresh-water showers, baggage storage service. Sit upstairs, facing a steady breeze, looking out over a beach lined with jukung, sampling the unusual, international food—the yogurt is about the richest on the island.
     Though the Padangbai Beach Inn, 500 meters east of town, offers Sulawesi-style bungalows for Rp15,000, the compound is poorly cared for, with dirty rooms, no fans, rats, showers crawling with green slime, and open exposure to thieves. Supplied mosquito nets, though. One of the best places for the money (depending upon your bargaining skills) is Kerti Beach Bungalows; each bungalow is situated under a palm tree with a nice sea view. Rp12,000 s, Rp15,000 d, Rp20,000 t with breakfast. The cheaper single-story units include some of the most ample windows of any budget bungalow on the islands, with curtains for privacy. Close the louvers near the door to prevent pilfering.
     Farther south is comparably priced Rai Inn, very near the beach and opposite the Pantai Ayu Restaurant. The service hasn't kept up with expanded accommodations, now 10 two- or three-bed rooms, Rp13,000 s, and 25 rice-barn bungalows, Rp27,000—all with fans. Although basically well designed with a very relaxing restaurant pavilion in front, the place looks a little ragged around the edges despite a show of pretty flowers. Helpful staff. Breakfast (0700-1100) isn't bad.

Food
Padangbai is known for unbelievably cheap food—whole platters of seafood (snapper, marlin, barracuda, prawns) and salad for around Rp4000. The best value eating is in the many warung and cafes along the waterfront and beach. The three restaurants in one continuous building up from Pantai Ayu are all outstanding. Travelers also gravitate to the rumah makan catering to Westerners located between Marco Beach Inn and the bus station, right on the beach. A Sasak Muslim community of 50 families lives around the mosque near the dock; several warung serving Islam-style meals are here.
     One of the top restaurants in town is Ibu Komang's Pantai Ayu ("Tropical Seafood") on Jl. Silayukti on the beach next to colorful jukung. Since it opened in 1988, sweet and warm Ibu has taken very good care of her customers, passing the krupuk jar regularly. Enjoy great curries, unbeatable salads, hot chips, and hamburgers; all meals in the Rp1000-3000 range. Open 0700-2000. Ibu's is also the place to buy toy boats, earrings, or postcards, borrow paperbacks from the lending library, rent snorkeling equipment (Rp2000) or a car, and mail letters. A real traveler's haven—she even gives massages. Pantai Ayu has been destroyed by high winds and waves several times. Ibu keeps on going.
     At the north edge of town is Topi's sand-floor restaurant. Lunch here on a huge plate of whole grilled fish and vegetable side dishes for only Rp2500, or choose pizza (Rp2500), muesli (Rp2500), yogurt, or lasagna. Although the food is very average to not so good, Topi's has perhaps the closest to a health food menu in Padangbai. Best offering is the huge plate of grilled tuna with carrots, cabbage, cucumbers, new potatoes, and French fries for Rp4000. At Cafe Shop Dona you can enjoy good nasi campur (Rp2000), cold drinks, and snacks. Next door is Warung Java, but the nasi campur is better at Cafe Shop Dona.

Services
At least three moneychangers here; rates slightly lower than in Kuta. At kantor telepon make calls to anywhere in the world; three minutes to Denpasar costs about Rp3000. A small kantor pos is just around the corner from Warung Java. Padangbai's postal code is 80872.

Getting Away
Travel and transport services sell tickets to all over Bali and to the neighboring island of Lombok. Arriving from Lombok, a line of bemo waits in the main car park at the end of the jetty to take passengers to all the major points on Bali. For Klungkung (blue or white, Rp700), Candidasa (Rp500), and Amlapura (orange Rp800), walk 100 meters from the harbor gate to catch bemo—blue for Klungkung, orange for Amlapura and Candidasa. For Batubulan direct it's Rp1500, or go first to Klungkung, then another Rp700 into Batubulan. After 1800, it's difficult to find a bemo, unless you walk out to the main road and flag one down. Bus tickets to Probolinggo (East Java) run Rp20,000; Surabaya, Rp25,000; Malang, Rp20,000; Yogya, Rp35,000.
     Padangbai has at least six travel agents. Perama in the Sri Artha Inn sells tours and shuttle bus service to: Ubud, Rp7500; Lovina, Rp15,000; Sanur/Kuta/Airport, Rp10,000; Kintamani, Rp15,000; and express bus (reclining seats, 22 hours) tickets to Mataram and Bangsal in western Lombok for Rp38,000. An ultra-fast catamaran to Bangsal, roundtrip, is Rp20,000.
     Another place to buy tickets is Pantai Ayu Restaurant; shuttle service to Mataram (Lombok) Rp10,000; Sengiggi Rp10,000; Bangsal Rp15,000; Gili Meno Rp20,000, Gili Trawangan. The shuttle bus to Sengiggi is worth the extra Rp2000.
     For a break from the languor of Padangbai's beach life, take a boat over to Nusa Penida. Fiberglass speedboats depart from near the large parking area next to the pier (Rp3000); another way to reach Penida, or Nusa Lembongan, is from Kusamba village to the southwest. See Nusa Penida's beautiful east coast—you won't regret it.
     The ferry ticket office is near the pier, under the Cepebri sign. A ferry for Lombok departs every two hours from 0200 to 2000. For the popular and crowded 0800 ferry, buy your ticket at 0700. Economy Rp4800, first class (a/c) Rp9000 between Padangbai and Lembar, a four-hour crossing. The ticket office for passenger cars (Rp59,200), motorcycles (Rp30,800), and pushbikes (Rp800) is just after the harbor gate heading toward the concrete dermaga. On board the ferry, keep a sharp eye on your stuff.

Vicinity of Padangbai
The area offers varied and exciting hiking. Hidden coves a short distance down the coast; the hills behind the bay present gorgeous views of Nusa Penida across the Bali Strait. Climb the paved road at the bay's northeast corner above the port to visit the headland on which perches Pura Silayukti, once a hermitage of the 11th-century Javanese priest Empu Kuturan, Erlangga's contemporary who purportedly introduced the caste system to Bali. Pura Telagamas is nearby, and Pura Tanjungsari is about 100 meters farther along the headland. Watch fishing boats chug out at night and return with their catch in the morning. To tag along, get to the beach by 0400 and bargain down the asking prices of Rp20,000 per person or Rp40,000 for up to three persons. Or head farther up the coast to Balina, where fishermen take tourists out for less. Surfers should check out the excellent right-hander on a big swell off the west point of the harbor.

Beaches
Yuo can sunbathe on the beach stretching north of the Pantai Ayu Restaurant, though the water is too polluted for swimming. A 15-minute walk over a grassy hill will bring you to quiet, sandy, beautiful Pantai Kecil in the quiet palm-lined village of Biastugal. Walk along the seawall, following it until you see a big tree; Then take the flight of stairs, walk on the road past a temple on a bluff, and descend to the small, uncrowded white beach. One of the three tiny warung here puts on beach parties in the busy season. To the southwest are more gray-sand beaches. The idyllic beach to the north, on Blue Lagoon Bay, is a longer walk, but has better snorkeling because of shallower water (but not the best swimming); the variety of fish and the hard coral outcrops on the sandy bottom are outstanding. Several places in Padangbai rent snorkeling equipment.

Diving in Amuk Bay
At least three dive spots are found off Padangbai, all a 10-15 minute jukung ride out into Amuk Bay. The water is cold; use a wetsuit. Pura Jepun, only 50 meters from shore, is a mixed reef with a flat, sandy bottom and a visibility of 10-12 meters, teeming with a great variety of fish, including some stingrays. On the way to Pura Jepun you'll pass a lighthouse on the north point of Padangbai Bay, then the rocky headland marking the entrance to Blue Lagoon Bay, with its brilliant white-sand beach and 25-meter-dropoff. Charter a boat from Padangbai for around Rp35,000 for two hours. South of Padangbai's harbor is Tanjung Bungsil, where the sloping bottom flattens out at between nine to 10 meters and the fish are numerous and varied.

Water Sports
Balina is known for its diving excursions in a marine reserve offshore. If you reach the beach by late afternoon, you can go night fishing with local fishermen using laterns. The Balina Diving Centre has an impressive team of five instructors supervised by a PADI Open Water dive master; he can also arrange fishing and outrigger sailing trips. Dive trips, instruction, and snorkeling are offered every day starting at 0900. Minimum two people, except for the three-person minimum to Nusa Penida and Menjangan. Snorkeling and scuba diving rates, including transport, instruction, equipment, lunch, and tax, depend on the destination. Sample per person rates: Rp15,000 snorkeling/Rp85,000 diving Blue Lagoon; Rp45,000 snorkeling/Rp150,000 diving, Nusa Penida; Rp55,000 snorkeling/Rp180,000 diving, Pulau Menjangan. Snorkeling (Rp25,000) and diving (Rp115,000) at Tulamben, a stunning shipwreck 40 km northwest of Balina; same rate for Cemeluk, near Amed to the northwest. Diving Pulau Kambing, off Balina, costs Rp115,000 for two dives. Strong and dangerous undercurrents at the south end of the island can carry you up to 500 meters out of your way. Sharks frequent the area; a few foreigners have gone down here and never come up.

Accommodations and Food
The best midmarket place to stay is 34-room Puri Buitan, east of the Balina Beach Bungalows on one of east Bali's most beautiful, safe beaches. Definitely worth the price if you're looking for easy living—nicely furnished rooms with hot water, swimming pool, great snorkeling, shuttle service to Ubud (Rp5000), plus the personal attention of proprietor I Made Patera. Puri Buitan's motel-style units are clean and tidy: Rp65,000 s, Rp75,500 d for fan-cooled rooms; Rp85,000 s, Rp90,000 d for a/c rooms; Rp140,000 s, Rp160,000 d for deluxe a/c seaview rooms. Add 15.5% tax and service. The restaurant overlooking the pool has a full menu of so-so food reflecting heavy Italian patronage. Also snacks and toiletries. Remain connected to the real world via the international telecommunications office in front of Puri Buitan. Guests can easily walk up the road and grab a bemo to Candidasa to get something to eat. Contact Box 444, Denpasar 80001, tel. (0361) 41021 or 41022.
     More upmarket is the 58-room Serai Hotel (tel. 0363-41011, fax 41015) on a secluded beach amidst a beautiful coconut grove. Rates: US$110-140, depending on the season. Although designed by the same architect who designed the Amankila, this hotel appeals to a younger, upwardly mobile set. The low-rise Western architecture blends well with natural surroundings and typical Balinese pavilion-style public areas. What sets the Serai apart from other Balinese establishments is that it's under Australian management who understand better what guests require.
     The Nelayan Villages (or Balina Beach Bungalows, Box 301, Denpasar, tel. 0361-41002 or 41005, fax 41001) offers accommodations with private verandas and baths set amidst palms and rice fields. Forty-one Balinese-style bungalows range from small two-bed units for Rp33,000 s, Rp42,000 d, up to Rp140,000 for family units (best views). Extra 15.5% for tax and service. Prices include continental breakfast; credit cards honored, postal service, moneychanger, safe deposit boxes, good parking, pool, gazebo bar, luncheon service, "Bali Night Dinner" with barbecue. Ideal for the sports-minded, as the Balina Diving Center maintains its office here. Drawbacks: expensive, terrible restaurant meals, and they don't smile much. At the nearby Java Restaurant the food is somewhat better and certainly more reasonably priced; also runs a small homestay. Fishing families will offer you drab rooms in the kampung for Rp10,000 s or d (first price). At the opposite end of the scale, Balina's most conspicuously upmarket hotel is the Mandra Alila, with 80 rooms at Rp200,000 per night. The luxurious beachside Serai Hotel, tel. (0366) 41011, fax 41015, built in the imposing Pacific Rim architectural style, is in the same class. Although the rooms are motel-style, they are spacious and well appointed. The swimming pool is near the beach under coconut palms.
     Nearby accommodations include Sunrise Bungalows, tel. (0366) 41008, in Buitan, consisting of 10 bungalows in the Rp12,000-25,000 range. The nicest rooms, at Rp25,000 per person, are on the second floor in the back, with lots of windows overlooking palms and garden foilage, with the bay in the distance. Beach between two concrete jetties with good snorkeling. Full time security; small restaurant. Ketut has a car, speaks good English, possesses a wealth of information, and caters to a regular and devoted clientele. Mailing address Box 287, Denpasar 80001, Bali.
     To the west is the even more isolated Ampel Bungalows in Manggis village—beautiful seascapes, nice gardens, restaurant. For Rp15,000 you get a simple, clean room (no hot water or electricity) and an exceptional view. The verandas are lit, with oil lamps provided in the evenings. There are no nearby restaurants, but proprietor Wayan Pastika Adijaya willingly arranges transport to the closest in Candidasa or Balina Beach. To get here go past Manggis and the turnoff to Amankila, where the road winds down to the coastal flats heading to Candidasa; the turn to Ampel is 300 meters before the bridge (see sign on right, if coming from Manggis), about one km before Balina Beach. Any bemo driver can find the place.
     Hotelier Adrian Zecha's Amankila is another world. Only about two km from Padangbai, heading north past the stone mangosteen monument, is this spectacular resort palace, set on a high cliff facing the Bali Strait. The 400-meter-long "restricted access" salt and pepper beach lies below an old temple spotlighted at night. Built in a luxuriant grove of frangipani, palms, and other local mature trees, some 35 spacious suites, linked by walkways to the restaurants, pools, and beach. All are exceptionally well designed, with extreme attention to detail. The structures may look heavy and blocky (someone wrote that they were looking for the graffiti!) but are actually ecologically correct, built to preserve and encourage drainage via natural waterways and streams. No TVs, as guests are expected to relax in an atmosphere combining unobtrusive luxury with informality. Enormous areas are dedicated to public space, including a "staircase" of three pools at different levels; seven suites come with their own pools. Visit the decadently elegant Library Museum, the sumptuous Beach Club with its thin 45-meter-long pool in the midst of a coconut plantation. Nonguests may frequent the Beach Club and the beach for a day for Rp45,000. Nice little restaurant (superb fish and chips) and the best lap pool on Bali. Barbecue every Tuesday and Friday night for Rp90,000 per person; kecak dances are held Wednesday, baris on Saturday. Room rates Rp700,000-2.5 million. Reservations c/o Amanusa, Nusa Dua, Bali, tel. (0363) 41333, fax 41555.

Getting Away
The man at Kios Melati, just up from the Puri Buitan, rents vehicles for Rp50,000 per day. You may also charter vehicles for the airport, Kuta, or Nusa Dua (Rp40,000). In the high season, a shuttle service may be in operation with shared rides to Ubud, Sanur, Kuta, and the airport for Rp10,000. For much cheaper public transport, go up to the main road and flag down a bemo. Kios Melati also develops film in one day.
     The area west of Balina around Manggis is really picturesque, with the sea on one side and mountains on the other. Walk 1.5 hours through woods and gardens to Ngis via Manggis; Tenganan is a two-hour walk from Ngis.

Sights
Coral gathering off the coast over two decades ago destroyed the reef—it no longer protects the shore, and the sea swept away much of the sand. Since Candidasa's beach is so narrow, it accommodates few vendors. There is a tide, just like on a normal beach. At high tide predatory waves pound the seawall, chasing beachcombers to higher ground. At low tide, the beach west of the lagoon is only eight meters wide and you can walk as far as 50 meters on the shelf (wear sneakers) and observe rock pools and reef life. During all but the rainy season, the water is crystal clear. Cement walkways and sitting pavilions surround the inland lagoon at the east end of town—the beautiful lagoon, with its tepid water, is also the village bath. The community's fresh water is handpumped from wells.
     To prevent further erosion, huge horrendous T-shaped concrete breakwaters were built. Because the currents caused by these stone piers are unpredictable, swimming is not advisable. If there's no pool where you're staying, you can use a pool at any of the ritzier hotels for around Rp6000. Sunbathing is best on the seawall. Take in views of the rocky Batu Manggar islet offshore, the lighthouse off Padangbai's headland, the looming island of Nusa Penida, and neighboring Lombok. Watch the wind and rain chase fishing craft across the sea. On calm days you can swim out past where the waves break, over the fringing reef about one-quarter km.
     The name Candidasa is derived from "Cilidasa" meaning "Ten Children." A shrine in the eastern part of the village, on a hillside under a cliff, looking out over a spring-fed lotus lagoon emptying into the sea, was founded in the 11th century. At street level is a statue of the giantess Hariti, a fertility goddess, surrounded by her many children. Childless couples often come to the temple seeking help from this goddess. A long flight of steps leads to the upper level of the temple, which contains an old linga. Its 10-tiered gateway is one of the few instances of an even-number employed in religious architecture.

Water Sports
Although there isn't much to the beach, there are still plenty of sheltered places to swim, especially on the eastern side of the village around the lagoon area. Or use the pools at any of Candidasa's ritzy hotels for Rp6000, which includes towel and lounge chair all day.
     Organized trips are best in Candidasa's often-dangerous waters. For instance, a fisherman will take you out just 30 minutes to see dolphins leaping and swimming—surrounding you. Good swordfish (lumba-lumba) fishing, too. Out at sea, it's an impressive view of the hills and Gunung Agung behind Candidasa. Nearly all the hotels offer half-day snorkeling, diving, fishing, and sailing outings, and several shops rent masks and flippers. Underwater sports provide beautiful views of coral and psychedelic fish; starting price is around Rp30,000 for two hours (always ascertain if equipment is included in the price). Beware of currents and don't depend on Candidasa fishermen as lifeguards—they can't swim!
     There are three dive shops in Candidasa where you can rent dive tanks, snorkels, and wetsuits. Stingray Dive Center, tel./fax (0366) 41063, is the cheapest; the equipment is okay but not too new. Stingray also offers two dives and a boat trip to Nusa Penida for Rp135,000. Paris Diving, east of Stingray, and Baruna Diving, Puri Bagus Beach Hotel, tel. (0366) 753820, offer the same trip for Rp47,000 more. Baruna seems most professional. Inquire at the Friendship Shop about Dive Paradise dive tours to Tulamben (Rp75,000, one dive), Pulau Tepekong (Rp145,000, two dives), and Nusa Penida (Rp190,000, two dives). Minimum two people.

Offshore Islands
Candidasa's offshore islands, only 30-45 minutes by boat, offer incredible snorkeling. Off southwest Candidasa, the tiny outcrop of Pulau Kambing—also called Pulau Tepekong—has magnificent coral reefs frequented by a startling array of fish in every size, shape, and color, including small, harmless reef and white-tip sharks. The island, which measures only 50 by 100 meters, has very steep sides, with no beaches. The water is clear, with visibility up to 10 meters; first-class skin diving. The northern end of the island is generally shallow, with the top of a southwest sloping wall starting at a depth of 10 meters. The east end of the island contains many caves, submerged pinnacles, and table coral. The south side is deeper, the top of the reef begining at about 22 meters. The best section is known as The Canyon, lined with giant boulders, plunging to a depth of more than 30 meters. Because of the strong downward pull of the current, it's been nicknamed The Toilet.
     The best time to go is early in the morning when the water is clear and there's little wind. An offering on the beach to the gods is a prerequisite before setting off. Hire a motorized jukung; once you clear the fringing reef it's only a 15 minute ride. Two other islands in the western side of Amuk Bay are Pulau Biaha (also called Likuan) and Gili Mimpang (also Batu Tiga or Three Rocks)—both present difficult conditions to even experienced divers. There are sharks around, the water is cold, the underwater currents are strong and unpredictable, and waves crashing into the islands create an undertow. Best to go only with professional divers who've been there before. Excellent snorkeling in the vicinity.
     One of the best-kept secrets of eastern Bali is brilliant Pasir Putih, 500-meter-long white-sand beach to the northeast. Ask a fisherman in Sumuh village (east of Candidasa) to take you there for Rp30,000 (two hours), or take a bemo to Perasi where a path leads past sawah to the coast. After 2.5 kilometers, you reach a small temple where the path forks. The left takes you to several black-sand beaches, while the right takes you down through coconut groves to Pasir Putih. Great views of rocky headlands and offshore islands.

Accommodations
Ten years ago this small village had only a few thatched huts and one private homestay. Today it boasts over 60 accommodations, with more sprouting monthly. Tourist digs are everywhere. Largely a budget resort, big, expensive hotels just wouldn't make it here. Prices and services are generally comparable to Lovina, with bottom-end homestays at about Rp12,000 (first price) and luxurious bungalows for Rp185,000 per night in the high season. Most places include the same simple breakfast of one hardboiled egg (or jaffles), bananas, and coffee or tea. Accommodations across the road tend to be cheaper than those close to or facing the sea. Most lie south along the main village road, though a growing number cluster along the seven-km stretch from Candidasa west to Manggis. A number of other quiet accommodations are spread out under coconut palms east of town center on Forest Road, which ends at the sea. Remember if you stay too far out of town, you'll probably need to rely on expensive hotel transport, as public transport stops at dusk.
     Prices, which normally average 12,000-15,000 d for a basic bungalow, go up at least 25% in August. Top-of-the-line beachfront bungalows, with private mandi and luxurious bamboo verandas, go for Rp40,000-80,000, while new first-class hotels run Rp115,000-200,000. Try for a deal at one of the more uptown hotels during the off-seasons. When the manager presents you with the usual, ridiculously priced tariff, denounce the Rp180,000 figure as "terlalu mahal" and turn to leave. He'll probably drag you back, and five minutes later you'll be inside a palatial room with ocean view for Rp60,000.
     Take note that Homestay Kelapa is now the shuttle bus station for "downtown" Candidasa. A brilliant move—now the place gets everybody. Touts hanging around the homestay do not necessarily represent the best in Candidasa Accommodations.
     Budget: Clean, quiet Dutha Seaside Cottages is a nice, family place at the north end of the village—run like a large commune. Dutha has its own beachfront, with cool breezes, good swimming, and a beautiful view. Rooms in a two-story building run Rp8000 s, Rp10,000 d; a row of bungalows rent for Rp12,000-20,000. Tariff includes breakfast, or just go in the kitchen and make your own tea or coffee. Frequent parties and Balinese feasts. Made, the owner/manager, is a real character—portly, smiling, animated. Contact him at tel. (0361) 93296 in Blahbatuh or tel. (0361) 93061 in Gianyar, or just show up. A real traveler's place. The people at Homestay Lilaberata, on the other hand, show almost a complete disregard for their guests. This dirty, run-down dive in the middle of the strip is tolerable only if you clean your room thoroughly, both inside and out. Staff burn trash in the yard, giving off thick toxic fumes and a horrendous stench. See the rubbish heaps and rats in the garden.
     Up the road toward Balina is Homestay Ayodya, with nicely furnished rooms for Rp14,000 s, Rp100,000 per month. The owner is the richest man in Candidasa—he holds title to most of the hills behind the village. Loves his 20 fighting cocks and employs a special boy to take care of them. This guy can lose Rp4 million in a cockfight and come home with a smile on his face. The dive operation Grace Divepro, tel. (0366) 34992, maintains an office here.
     The rooms at Homestay Agung cost only Rp8000, and the people are very kind, but each night the disco in the restaurant nearby cranks up really loud music. Quieter is Homestay Segara Wangi, with attractive, well-kept gardens facing the sea. A friendly place with good breakfast, the bungalows are new and clean. If there are few tourists around, the front desk will accept Rp12,000 for a bungalow with double bed and private mandi. You may end up staying for days. Homestay Kelapa Mas, tel. (0366) 41947, next door to Homestay Ida, is cheaper and less touristy than most places. It's clean, quiet, well serviced, and almost always full. Stunning seaside location in a banana and coconut grove. The bamboo bungalows range from Rp15,000 to Rp35,000; the indoor mandi, almost the same size as the room itself (tiny), consists of a spigot shower high on the wall and a squat toilet. All rooms are linked by tidy concrete paths bordered by neatly clipped hedges. The thatch and brick cottages facing the sea are best.
     Agung Bungalows is a great place to stay, starting at Rp10,000 for nice clean bungalows with fan, private bathrooms, and breakfast—very good value, good people. Contact Mr. Supadnya, manager, at tel. (0361) 355-535 in Denpasar. The Dewa Berata, east of Agung's, has comfortable bungalows for three people at Rp40,000. The seaside is right next to the pool. Quiet and friendly Nani Beach Inn, near the Ramayana, has bungalows with mandi for Rp15,000 d, which includes a good breakfast. Very close to the beach. Losmen Geringsing is one of the more comfortable low-priced losmen, with ornate brick-and-bamboo bungalows facing the beach for Rp15,000 d.
     Luxury: Candidasa's first-class hotels tend to be on the wings of the central downtown strip. Located on oceanfront property amid palms, most of these accommodations feature European toilets and showers, hot water, lush gardens, air conditioning, full-size swimming pools, garden bathrooms, refrigerators, minibars, gift shops, and restaurants with magnificent views over the Lombok Strait and offshore islands. All offer sea sports, airport transfers, big dish TVs, extravagant buffet dinners, and continental, Indonesian, and American breakfasts. All accept credit cards and offer laundry, postal, massage, tour, and moneychanging services. The "best" are several kilometers from Candidasa, with nothing else in the vicinity. Like German prison camps with German food. This may be exactly what some people want; others will feel like trapped animals.
     Nirwana Cottages, Sengkidu, Amlapura 80871, tel. (0366) 41136, fax 41543, has a superb location, nice rooms, pool, and wholesome home-cooked food. Ten traditional, well-appointed, one-story cottages go for Rp95,000-125,000. Close to the water, Nirwana is clean, private, and low-key, with Japanese baths, spring mattresses, and very personalized service. Eat bratwurst in the pleasant seaside restaurant; ask about the "Easy Rider" facilities whereby you can do Indonesia by camper van. Also in Sengkidu is Ida Beach Village, tel. (0366) 41118 or 41119, fax 41041, consisting of 17 thatched lumbung-style air-conditioned bungalows set in their own compound, surrounded by a garden and courtyard. All mod cons—hot water, bath, telephone, air conditioning, and fan. Tariff Rp125,000 per night for standard units. Facilities include restaurant, bar, swimming pool.
     Centrally located Candidasa Beach Bungalows II, tel. (0366) 51205, is a big two-story hotel with an open-air bar and pool. Despite its packed-in feeling, real Balinese breezes blow here, and the rooms are attractive and spacious. Breakfast, especially the banana pancakes, is excellent. All rooms have fans, air conditioning, hot water, Western-style bath, fridge, TV, and cost Rp65,000 s, Rp75,000-85,000 d. The elegant Watergarden, tel. (0366) 41540, fax 41164, offers 12 luxurious Balinese-style, fan-cooled cottages with thatched roofs and marble floors overlooking lily ponds stocked with koi. A virtual aquatic park laid out on gradually rising terraces. The well-designed bungalows are Rp150,000 d plus 15.5% tax and service, with adjustable ceiling fans, comfortable beds, and large wooden-decked verandas. Enjoy the natural gardens of coconut palms and lush frangipani and bougainvillea surrounding a large free-form swimming pool with waterfall—a lovely setting for evening barbecues and gamelan performances. Room service, IDD, laundry, ironing, safety deposit, library, flight reconfirmation, mountain bikes, tour and transport service. Dine on European and Indonesian cuisine, guzzle exotic cocktails at attached TJs. Peter Warren, the Australian manager, is hypnotic.
     Tinarella Beach Hotel, in Samuh, tel. (0366) 33971, provides real comfort at reasonable rates, Rp35,000 s, Rp45,000 d, plus 15% service and tax. All rooms Balinese-style with private bathrooms, spacious gardens, large swimming pool, poolside bar, restaurant, water sports, taxi service, IDD, fax. Lovely view of the beach. Relaxing, clean, and comfortable Puri Bagus Beach Hotel is tucked away amid the palms in Samuh at the end of Forest Road: 50 well-designed, spacious bungalows for Rp140,000 s, Rp145,000 d. Higher rates for nine units and two suites facing the ocean. Terrace verandas, but beware of slippery tiles after it rains. Good 24-hour security, an unobtrustive, friendly staff. The floating pavilion is perfect for meditation, the pool good for diving. Buffet-style dinner (Rp30,000), Indonesian or American-style breakfast (Rp15,000, with whole-wheat bread!) in breezy second-story restaurant. Coral reef out front. For diving, Baruna has a desk here. Reservations: Jl. Bypass I Gusti Ngurah Rai 300 B, Box 419, Denpasar 80001, tel. (0361) 51223, fax 52779, or call direct to the hotel at (0366) 35238 or 35291, fax 35666.
     Candidasa Bungalows II, Box 10, Amlapura, tel. (0366) 35536, fax 35537, in the center of town offers spacious bungalows for Rp115,000, with swimming pool and a restaurant right on the beach. The property has an air of abandon in the off-season, when it's overstaffed and underpatronized.
     Out of Town: To get away from the crowds, head a few kilometers off the main drag to Kubu Bali Bungalows, tel. (0366) 35531 or 35532, high above the restaurant of the same name. Built in dramatic amphitheater-style, this Rp150,000-and-up hotel sits on a ridge overlooking the entire area. Beautiful, small, retro-rococo villas with brass coach lamps, smoked glass, antique carvings, and tame monkeys.
     Sengkidu, five minutes southwest of Candidasa, is a tidy little tourist village consisting of cafes, souvenir shops, and bike rental joints—like a sane Kuta. Anom Beach Bungalows asks Rp25,000 for one of eight bungalows with fan, double bed, shower, and bountiful breakfast. Excellent restaurant overlooking a white-sand beach. Rent snorkeling equipment for brilliant views of coral gardens just 20 meters offshore inhabited by triggerfish and rays. Also check out Homestay Dwi Utama (Rp7000s, Rp10,000 d) with four rooms facing the ocean. High-class Candi Beach Cottages on the white sands of Mendire Beach charges Rp130,000-200,000 for luxurious rooms. Amenities include two bars, two restaurants, water sports, pool, tennis courts, fitness room, game room, spa, occasional barong dances, tour service, and free shuttle into town.
     Flamboyant, on the other side of the bridge toward Balina, is a decent walk from town. They charge a fair price (Rp15,000), owners willing to bargain. A strip of bungalows leading to the beach with clean rooms, attentive staff, and okay breakfast. Bayu Peeneda Bungalows charges Rp30,000 for a nice bungalow with very good breakfast and wonderful ocean panorama. The meals are very good (Rp15,000 for two) and the sea spray provides a natural aerosol.
     Uncrowded, six-room Ida Cottages is in the eastern part of town just before the lagoon. One of the first accommodations in Candidasa, Ida's charges Rp30,000-40,000 for beautiful bamboo-and-thatch traditional bungalows in a spacious coconut grove; also some rooms in two-story unit. No hot water. The only place in Candidasa proper you can rent a little home with lots of privacy. A great spot. Rama Ocean View Bungalows and Resort Hotel, Box 120, Amlapura 80801, tel. (0361) 233974 or 233975, fax 233975), lies 1.5 km southwest of town. A Holiday Inn-style resort hotel offering serenity, security, and the personal touch of a small hotel with the services of a larger one. The large air-conditioned rooms with beautiful garden bathrooms are normally Rp170,000 but may be much cheaper in the low season. Second-story rooms with stunning views. Facilities include video and TV, oceanfront swimming pool, tennis courts, fitness and massage center, sauna, conference room, large and pleasant dining area. Outstanding restaurant with padi bali and homemade yogurt, croissants, and bread; the honey/pineapple/banana pancakes can't be beat. Buffets by request. Great place for families. Easy 15-minute walk into the village.

Ashram Candi Dasa
A religious community—the only Gandian ashram in Indonesia—was founded in the mid-1970s by Ibu Gedong Bagoes Oka, the widow of a Balinese Hindu leader and former deputy governor of Bali. In daily pujas and lectures, Ibu teaches the Vedic scriptures, the Balinese religion, faith-healing, and the pacifist philosophy of Gandhi. The first arrivals were travelers seeking a quieter alternative than the pell-mell and frenetic development gripping southern Bali in the '70s. Today, Vedic chants still emanate from this beachfront ashram, heard above the pounding waves and music blaring from ghetto boxes and restaurants. Simple cottages facing the sea are rented out (Rp20,000 per person, including three vegetarian meals per day), providing the main source of revenue for the ashram and an elementary school that Ibu Oka runs for the village children. Guests are free to worship, meditate, work, and study as little or as much as they want with the several dozen young Balinese and Westerners who make up the permanent Ashram community. It's recommended that you book at least three months in advance, tel. (0366) 41108.

Food
Dinner is the big social event around here. Candidasa's imposing eateries, many set back from the road in big pavilions among the palms, offer the usual Kuta formula menus—generally speaking poor food—but with a Mediterranean twist. Pasta or German dishes always included. There are even several authentic Italian restaurants.
     Seafood is fresh, cheap, and abundant. The fish dinners are the best buy, particularly the bream caught everyday by local fishermen and sold to the town's warung and restaurants. Find dozens of small, quaint, friendly warung, some with spectacular settings on the seawall. Most of Candidasa's restaurants will organize traditional dances if you have enough people, but even during the low season you can catch the occasional show once or twice a week.
     Authentic and cheap is Kelapa Mas, with very good veggie soup (Rp1000) and grilled salmon with chips and veggies (Rp4000). Family-run Arie's Restaurant, in the west end of town, is a good bet for budget Western, Balinese, and Chinese food. The fish dinners are good value; also try the gado-gado and the fish curry with vegetables. Besides the food, Arie's offers a free bulletin board, provides daily English newspapers, rents life jackets and binoculars, sells children's furniture, and organizes fishing trips.
     Cafe Lily used to be Candidasa's premier gourmet restaurant but the British owner has gone back to Australia, and the place has really fallen down—the food is terrible. The first and still one of the best restaurants in Candidasa is the candle-lit Pandan Restaurant on the beach—try the fantastic grilled fish with vegetable salad in a very romantic setting. Every second night an amazing smorgasbord (Rp12,000, with free beer). Highly recommended. Fan-cooled and well-posted Raja's Restaurant & Bar boasts such international cuisine as tuna cakes, kebab, sausages, apple pie, and margaritas. Nightly videos at 1930. Baliku is an artistically designed restaurant right on the ocean, next to Cafe Toke. A great spot to sit and take in the scenery, enjoy excellent Singapore crab, seafood, and continental European food. The cheapest soup is Rp3000 plus 10% tax for approximately four spoonfuls. Cafe Toko next door is a small seafront restaurant with an extensive menu offering seafood, pasta, pizzas. Friendly staff, high prices.
     Probably the best place for Western food is TJs, tel./fax (0366) 35540, by The Watergarden. Homemade bread, stuffed baked potatoes, lots of salads, delectable grilled fish, and, authentic Balinese-style nasi campur with urab and not much oil. This is the place to be on Friday and Saturday nights for the barbecue buffet—salad bar, great spare ribs, chicken, and beef, only Rp15,000 per person including dessert. Super deal. Order French wines, Irish coffee, and almost anything long or short from the very extensive drink menu. TJs is also a popular place for cakes and "Ekspresso." Definitely try the coconut pie. Nice atmosphere.
     Kubu Bali, tel. (0363) 41532, fax 41531, in the center of Candidasa, is an elegant, open-air restaurant featuring seafood: sweet shrimp and sauce Rp10,000, sate campur Rp7500, plain green vegetables with sauce Rp2000. Good desserts, especially the ice cream. Watch all the action in the open kitchen where flames shoot up around the wok. East of the village is Mandara Giri Pizzeria, the best Italian restaurant in Candidasa. Extremely good and inexpensive crab with cognac, pizza with seafood, outstanding spaghetti and lasagna.

Entertainment
See barong, topeng, and legong dances at Pandan Harum Tuesday and Saturday at 2100 for Rp4000. During the tourist season performances are also staged at the Candidasa Beach Hotel and other upscale accommodations. If you like a lot of noise and high-priced drinks head to the Tirta Nadi where local bands play most nights of the week. The best bar scene, though, is TJ's; try their famous jumbo margaritas. Happy hour 1800-2000. You can also stay up late drinking and listening to high-volume music at the Beer Garden (no cover); all the gigolos hang out here.
     For recent movies, Raja's has a huge monitor for videos, or see them on laser disc at Molly's Garden Restaurant (around 1930). Molly's also serves bar-quality food; since the British owner returned home the place has fallen on hard times. Try to focus on your snack while the screams from horror videos split the evening air.

Shopping
Candidasa shopkeepers display plenty of authentic Balinese crafts and textiles; they don't hassle you as they do in other places on Bali. Ata baskets and offering trays of ata vines from Candidasa's hillsides are an important home industry in the area. They're sturdy enough to last 100 years; the smartly decorated ones start at Rp30,000.
     Across the street from the Candidasa Beach Bungalows II is Chinese-run Asri, a combination film developing/grocery/crafts store with fixed prices and computerized check out. Some readers report engaging in 90% of their Bali souvenir/gift shopping here. No pressure and reasonable prices. Buy cosmetics, medicine, stamps, tapes, film, snacks, simple clothes here. Eddy's Market makes the best photocopies in town, offers complete photo service, changes money, and stocks an outstanding collection of photo supplies. Plus groceries, books on Indonesian art and culture, and Candidasa's most complete postcard selection.
     Tanteri's Ceramic is a showroom for remarkable Pejaten pottery, a unique variety of glazed stoneware, produced exclusively in Pejaten village. Purchase vases, soap dishes, cups, bowls, and plates with either a mat or shiny finish. The seaside village of Jasi, north of Bugbug, provides earthenware bowls and water jars. Attached to Chez Lily is a high-quality gift shop selling fine art and ceramics: rebab (Rp80,000), masks, antiques, clothes, handmade knives (Rp45,000).
     A small bookstore without a name sits opposite Wiratha's Homestay. The owner, Aliep, sells used and new books in six languages for around Rp5000; an Irving Stone costs Rp8000. Open 0900 to 2000. Also check out the selection of books at Homestay Kelapa Mas.

Services
Candidasa has at least 10 moneychangers (similar rates as Kuta), two Wartels, lending libraries, bookstores, several doctors, a pharmacy, laundry and massage services, a postal agent, several big convenience markets, and a number of travel agencies, tour operators, and dive shops. The cost of basic provisions in shops and supermarkets is usually much cheaper than elsewhere on the island. The telephone code for Candidasa is 0366.
     A reliable bike rental shop is Kubu Bali Rental, tel. (0366) 35532, charging Rp3000 per day for mountain bikes, Rp2000 for ordinary bikes. By the week Rp500 per day cheaper. Motorbikes (200 cc) rent for Rp10,000 per day without insurance, Rp15,000 with insurance. You can also rent motorcycles unofficially from the locals, avoiding all the red tape. Car rental runs Rp25,000 for 12 hours, Rp22,500 for a three-day minimum. Saputra Rental, tel. (0366) 41083, near the Tengenan turnoff, is also recommended. The nearest gas stations are just before the Tirtagangga turnoff and right after the turnoff to Padangbai.
     At least 15 tour operators maintain offices in Candidasa, and all the hotels staff tour desks. Your hotel can arrange an English-, Japanese-, or German-speaking guide. The fancy hotels charge astronomical prices for fax service; Ayodya Homestay is cheaper. Of the two Wartel, the best known is at the Kubu Bali. If the wait is too long at Kubu's, go down to Asri Market. No public telephone in Candidasa accepts cards. The postal agent at Asri (open 0800 to 2000) sells stamps and provides poste restante (letters should be addressed to Asri Shop, Box 135, Candidasa, Karangasem, Bali). Asri also offers package parcels in a big 10-kg box for Rp5000. If staff can break off looking at the TV long enough, they may serve you. At a small shack southwest of town, on the same road as Rama Seaview Beach Bungalows, is a laundry service, Monalisa, about one-third cheaper than the hotels. Another tukang cuci (Wayang Resiyani) works near the temple; ask for her in one of the nearby warung. She charges Rp300-500 per piece, including ironing and washing. At the hotels, steel-fingered masseurs come around asking Rp6000 for one-hour massages.

Getting There and Away
From Klungkung or Padangbai take a bemo headed for Amlapura. If traveling from Denpasar, first take a minibus to Batubulan Station (a foreigner with luggage pays Rp1000), then catch another minibus to Candidasa (another Rp1500—many stops along the way). Regular shuttles run from Kuta for around Rp10,000. Both long-distance and local minibuses and bemo travel constantly up and down the coastal road between Amlapura and Klungkung from 0500 to 1900. Sample fares: Padangbai, Rp700; Amlapura, Rp700; Goa Lawah, Rp700; Klungkung, Rp1000; Denpasar, Rp1500; Singaraja Rp3000.
     Shuttle buses to Ubud leave five times daily for Rp10,000; to Sanur, Kuta, and the airport, 0930 and 1000 for Rp10,000; to Kintamani, only at 0800 for Rp15,000; and for Lovina, 0800 and 1200 for Rp18,000.
     Candidasa is about 2.5 hours from Bali's airport. Virtually all the better hotels in Candidasa offer private transfers to and from the airport, Kuta, Nusa Dua, Tanjung Benoa, or Ubud for around Rp30,000 one way (minimum two people).
     MG International Ticketing, midtown, sells air and shuttle bus tickets, rents bikes and cars, and changes money. Buy long-distance bus tickets to Java here, too. MG is useful as an agent for such international airlines as SIA, MAS, UTA, KLM, Pan Am, JAL, Thai, and Qantas. Perama Tours near Arie's Restaurant has very good prices for tickets and offers tours around east Bali (from Rp20,000 per person), car rentals, and other tourist services.
     On the western corner of the lagoon, across the road, is No Problem Transport, tel. (0366) 29110, for changing money, postal service, tours, shuttles, and international bookings. The only problem with No Problem is you must call Denpasar (Rp6000) to confirm your international ticket purchases.

Vicinity of Candidasa
Candidasa is an ideal point of departure for day excursions. Consult the guestbook at Arie's for the best hikes. Climb the rolling hills behind Candidasa for hidden valleys with wild monkeys, snakes, kingfishers, and superb panoramas. There are villages up there with no roads to them; wear a hat as there's little shade. Some of the paths are confusing, so it's best to take a guide.
     Take the path opposite Homestay Kelapa Mas for the two-and-a-half-hour, five-km walk to Tenganan; once you reach the top of the hill, follow the ridge trail before dropping down into Tenganan. Go in the back way via stone steps. Another trail starts at Warung Srijati near the lagoon; at the top of the mountain take the trail to the left over some smaller hills to reach Tenganan.
     See the sunset from the fishing village east of Candidasa, reached by walking around the headland when the tide is out. The beaches to the east are wider and offer perfect swimming for children. You can also reach a nice stretch of beach by taking the track from the Puri Bagus Hotel at the end of Forest Road, passing the Bung Putri, then ascending 200 meters to the top of cliffs where you descend to a deserted black-sand beach. There's another superb beach to the northeast at Jasi.
     Drive to Besakih via Iseh and Sidemen; go all the way to Ubud on back roads only. In the other direction, toward Amlapura, the road climbs to Pura Gamang Pass, which affords beautiful views before dropping down to a rift valley with luscious landscapes just before the village of Bugbug. The people here collect coral for processing in beach limeburners in the making of cement. The entire area is covered with a layer of fine lime power, as if dusted with powdered sugar. Don't miss the abuang taruna dance of unmarried boys dressed in white and gold with kris and headdress. Takes place during the full moon of the first month in the Balinese calendar.

Architecture
Tenganan is an architectural wonder, one of the few places on Bali with a pre-Hindu South Seas pagan feel. Here you'll see ancient courtyard walls, pavilion temples, magnificent community halls, and old high-based longhouses, all built in a powerful, very masculine, crude "aristocratic" style. These extraordinary structures come straight from the island's casteless prehistory. Note the number of homes with dog doors built into the stone facade.
     Scholars theorize Tenganan's classical linear village layout, walled mountain-style courtyard dwellings, and ceremonial longhouses suggest the village was once located farther up the valley. Village legends of landslides and sudden evacuations lend credence to this theory.
     Longhouses are actually the equivalent of southern Bali's bale banjar where meetings, weddings, and banquets take place and where the village gamelan is stored. Longhouses are still widespread in a number of isolated, animist, agricultural societies on Kalimantan and Sumatra.

Layout
The most striking feature of this 700-year-old walled village is its layout, totally different from any other community on Bali. Rectangular in shape (250-by-500 meters, about six hectares or 15 acres), Tenganan shares many characteristics with primitive villages on Nias and Sumba. Today there are three broad parallel avenues running along the same axis as Gunung Agung and the sea, lined with walled living compounds of nearly identical floor plans. The eastern street, which tourists rarely visit, is accessed through the lower parking lot. There are also three streets running east to west. The wide, stone-paved north-south streets, which serve as village commons, rise uphill in tiers so the rain flows down, providing drainage. Each level is connected by steep cobbled ramps. The only entrance to this fortresslike village is through four tall gates placed at each of the cardinal points (prior to Indonesian independence, Tenganan was surrounded by a high wall). The main entrance is the south, home to the highest concentration of souvenir stalls.
     Villagers live in brick and mortar longhouses. Handsome ceremonial pavilions and giant grain storehouses run down the center of the widest avenue. There are also open kitchens and bale, administration buildings, the kulkul, an elementary school, wantilan, and a playing field, all arranged in a long neat row. Pigs wander peacefully and water buffalo graze on the lawns. At the south end is the long bale agung, site of all important village events and discussions; here you may see half the men in the village watching TV. In back of the village is a black atap-roofed temple, Pura Jero, set under banyan trees. Well to the north of the village, also under a huge waringin tree, is pura puseh (temple of origins). Here also is the village cemetery. Don't miss Tenganan Tukad, a smaller version of Tenganan to the east; amazing ceremonies.

Village Life
Much of it revolves around souvenir selling. The people have completely adapted to the tourist economy; nowadays tables selling palm leaf books are set up at intervals the whole length of the main street. Nearly every home seems to hold a display room or bale. The young men are cool dudes who speak American- or British-accented English while feigning an air of boyish innocence; cunning traders and bargainers, the people are friendly yet dignified. You're invited to take tea and photos of women weaving wide temple belts on rhythmical backstrap looms. The walled village's quiet somnolent air is accentuated by the lack of vehicular traffic except for the occasional motorcycle. There are no accommodations for tourists; the nearest hotels are in Candidasa. Morning is proclaimed at Tenganan by 21 low drumbeats at around 0600 and curfew is loudly announced at 2000 when all visitors must leave.

Events
Most rituals take place early in the morning. A famous celebration in May or June each year is the three-day Udaba Sambah. At this time one of the area's five primitive Ferris wheels is erected. The unmarried girls of the village sit on chairs and the giant wooden contraption is revolved by foot power for hours on end. For the past several years, however, the ceremony has not been held because of a shortage of young marriageable girls. The high point of Udaba Sambah is the killing of a black water buffalo, preceded by a ritual trance fight (makara-kare) between young men who attack each other with prickly pandanus leaf whips. These theatrical contests can last for three days and incorporte more than 100 participants. The duels, similar to the peresean whip fights of Lombok, are staged to the intense martial sounds of kare music. Blood is usually drawn because the fighters are only protected by plaited bamboo shields. During the festival the streets of Tenganan throng with people from all over Bali. Wayan Suwirta at the Nuri Arts Shop has a photo album of the ceremony.
     Kawin pandan is also practiced here once yearly: a young man throws a flower over a wall and must marry whoever catches it. Rejang is a formal and sedate ritual offering dance, originally performed by virgin boys and girls. In this quiet, hypnotic dance, girls in three rows wear magnificent costumes and colorful sashes, their hair adorned with blossoms of hammered gold. It's accompanied by the slow, haunting gamelan music found only in Bali Aga villages.

Music
The xylophonic rindik is made of bamboo tubes suspended in a wooden frame. Played for dancing and entertainment rather than ceremonies, the rindik is part of the small village folk band and often serves as background music in tourist hotels and restaurants. The instrument can play a rich repertoire of music. There are two types, each tuned differently: lanang (higher, or "left") and wadong (lower, or "right"). They're cheap, light, easy to make, and cost around Rp35,000. The Gaguron Shop and House of Music carry rindik in both carved and plain frames. Don't buy a packaged instrument without first checking that it's not broken or rotten; don't take one off Bali or it will definitely become the latter.
     The unique gong selonding is an archaic orchestra consisting of instruments with up to 40 tuned iron sound bars suspended on leather straps over resonators. This unusual orchestra is peculiar to the ancient, cloistered, conservative villages of eastern Bali. Quite different from Bali's Javanized Gong Kebyar, which uses bronze keys, the selonding<\#213>s resonant iron bars are more meditative and deeper. Tenganan's own gong selonding is so sacred that until recently it was locked away in the southernmost boys' assembly house. Taping and photos were prohibited, and no outsider could touch it, else the whole gamelan require reconsecration in an elaborate purification rite. Now you can buy a cassette of The Best of Gamelan/Selongding Tenganan in music shops throughout Bali. A full-size replica of this orchestra is displayed in the Basel Museum of Anthropology in Switzerland.
     Tengana's musicians also fashion and play genggong instruments. Inquire about lessons; around Rp10,000 per hour.

Kamben Gringsing
Tenganan is the only place in all of Indonesia that produces double-ikat textiles. In this difficult traditional technique, both the warp and weft threads are dyed before the fabric is woven. Reddish, dark brown, blue-black, and tan backgrounds, once dyed in human blood, are used to highlight intricate whitish and yellow designs of wayang puppet figures, rosettes, lines, and checks. Great care is taken to ensure that even tension is applied throughout so the patterns will match exactly.
     Rather loosely woven, these kamben gringsing (or "flaming cloths") are used only in rites of passage or for ceremonial purposes: weddings, toothfilings, covering the dead, or during a child's first haircut. It's thought the sarung-length cloths can immunize the wearer against illness; small pieces for wrapping around the wrist are sold for this purpose.
     No longer is it the custom to teach all village daughters this craft. Only about six families still know all the double-ikat processes (coloring, tying, dyeing), and only about 15 people still weave gringsing on small makeshift breastlooms. A good place to learn about double-ikat is Indigo Art Shop.
     Because they are not worked on full time and because the coloring process is so involved, it can take up to seven years to complete a fine piece of gringsing and they're generally only sold upon the death of the owner. The really precious gringsing, prized by serious textile collectors, cost Rp7 million-10 million. Wayan Pura of the Dewi Sri Shop can show you some specimens; others are displayed in Jakarta's Textile Museum. Less alus, newer gringsing cost "only" Rp400,000 to Rp750,000—preposterous, as they're often tatty, dull-colored, and less than a meter long! You simply can't buy the perfect ones anymore. Like the people who make them, the magic cloths are disappearing.

Lontar Books
Lontar are palm leafs on which intricate drawings have been etched, usually depicting scenes from the Hindu epics. I Wayang Muditadnana makes about one five-page lontar book per month, which he sells mostly to tourists for Rp100,000 and up. On holy days or upon request he can be heard reading passages from his books. I Made Pasek is another lontar carver in the village. He, too, spends about a month inscribing one palm-leaf book with miniature Ramayana scenes and stories. A third artist, I Nyoman Widiana, asks Rp100,000 for his seven-page wordbooks. He also sells lesser quality lontar made by his students. Most cheap (Rp10,000) versions sold on the street are of low quality. The finer, antique, superbly etched works can fetch Rp500,000.

Ata Baskets
Ata baskets are a good buy, so sturdy they're said to last 100 years. They're made from a vine collected from the hills behind Tenganan. Basketry has been developed into a fine art on Lombok too, but baskets there are made from rattan. Ata is much stronger than rattan, as it's water, heat, and insect resistant. They come in all shapes and sizes, and cost from Rp5000 to Rp250,000; those with black woven designs are more difficult to make and cost more. An average-size basket takes two to three weeks to make, worked on by both men and women when it's too hot or rainy to work the fields.
     A friendly place to purchase these traditional baskets, woven right on the premises by the whole family, is Inengah Kedep's on the main street. These are the finest ata baskets, "bowls," boxes, plaques, and even backpacks on the island; take time to linger and you'll learn a lot Inengah may even, eventually, bargain a bit. If you're really serious about buying, ask to see the baskets in the back room. Another reasonably priced shop for woven goods is Mertha Shop run by I Nyoman Setiawan.

Shops
Tenganan is a fantastic place to shop—both for local and Gianyar crafts, as well as fine textiles from the eastern islands. Many vendors have a good eye, ask reasonable prices, and don't hassle you to buy. The craft shops on the outside of Tenganan's southern entrance carry handsome tasseled shawls, ata baskets, offering trays, wickerwork, woven reeds, betel nut containers, and a good variety of woven eastern isle textiles. Watch for imitation Sumba blankets, carving from Gianyar, and other crafts which may be bought cheaper in Denpasar's Pasar Badung or in the villages of origin. You'll get a better price in the off-season (February to May), and in the morning before the tour buses start arriving and prices skyrocket.
     Gagaron, located through the entrance gate from the parking lot in the lower part of the village, is a good place to start. The owner sells smallish gringsing for Rp350,000 to Rp400,000, as well as an extensive collection of kain ikat, antiques, palm-leaf books, woodcarvings, and bronze. Rindik cost Rp35,000 and can be disassembled and packaged to go. Ask the owner's nephew, I Komang Sika, to demonstrate how they're played. To make sure the notes ring true, have them break down and wrap a rindik you've personally played.
     Art Shop Dewi Sri is on the right on the top parking lot. Large selection of new bronze pieces, single and double ikat, and ata goods. At House of Music And Gamelan Centre, toward the top of the village (fifth terrace), I Nyoman Gunawan makes distinctive nine-piece Tenganan-style gong selonding. He also sells gongs (Rp300,000), rebab (Rp150,000), carved rindik (Rp150,000), and tapes (Rp6000). The best place to buy the more elaborate xylophone-type musical instruments.

Getting There and Away
Tenganan is three km off the main road between Klungkung and Amlapura, just before Candidasa, and 17 km southwest of Amlapura. Catch a bemo from Klungkung or Padangbai to the Tenganan turnoff, then mount the back of one of the 15 or so waiting ojek motorcycles (Rp1000, after negotiations) and travel up through a tunnel of banana trees and bamboo. You can also stay in Candidasa—no accommodations in Tenganan—then early in the morning walk from the main road up to Tenganan. The turnoff is on the west side of the village, then it's about another five kilometers up the hill through thick forests—a great walk. Or hitch a minibus, oplet, truck, or anything else headed your way. Another option is to rent a bicycle in Candidasa; it's a nice, though uphill, ride. The road ends at the southern entrance gate to Tenganan where you'll be asked for a donation. Foodstalls, inside and out, sell cold drinks and snacks. It's best not to arrive between 1100 and 1400 when the small village and parking lot are deluged with tourist.
     Another way to reach this traditional village is to follow the road on top of the hill behind Candidasa in a northerly direction; a two-and-a-half-hour walk. Stop for boiled water and fruit at Nyi Komang Rerot's house along the way. If you walk into the hills beyond Tenganan, the road turns to the northeast. Check out the panorama from the pura in Gumang, the highest point overlooking a deep valley. In Tenganan, ask about the footpath to Tirtagangga.

Puri Kanginan
Of Amlapura's four palaces, each facing the cardinal points, the most famous is that of the last raja, Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut. Built early this century, Puri Kanginan is a big complex, surrounded by a thick red-brick wall. Enter through an elaborate three-tiered pagoda-style entrance. Inside, an air of slow decay prevails. The fountains have stopped spouting and dragons and serpents sit stonily with wide-open mouths, yet it's a functioning puri with connecting walkways over pools and compounds set aside for the royal family.
     A combination of European, Chinese, and Balinese architecture and interior design were used in this puri<\#213>s construction. The Bale Amsterdam is the island's best known example of Balinese experimentation with the formal Dutch architectural style. Some of the deteriorating furniture in the palace's Maskerdam reception building was donated by Queen Wilhelmina of Holland. The largest and most striking pavilion is Bale London, with flourishing Edwardian decorations and a long veranda. It was given this curious name because its furniture is decorated with what the raja thought to be the British royal crest.
     Over the bale entrance is a widely reproduced 1939 photo of the moustachioed raja, shot at a time when the district was granted limited self-rule by the Dutch. The king's own pavilion has all his clothes and belongings preserved under lock and key. Also see the traditional, ornate toothfiling bale.
     As the raja had nine recognized wives, many families—as many as 150 people—still live inside the palace. Among the residents is the raja's grandson, painter Anak Agung Ardana, who produces bright colored cubist-style paintings. Several women occupants still weave gold-brocaded songket. Princess Mirah and her American husband "Gipper," run Bali Fabrications, tel. (0366) 21496, fax 21074, which produces neo-modern ethnic batik designs and children's clothing emblazoned, for example, with the skulls of the Grateful Dead. Their showroom in the U.S. is at 1190 E. Napa St., Sonoma, CA 95476, tel. (707) 996-1445.
     Since it's difficult to determine which buildings are occupied or sacred, it's best to let the eager children guide you. The puri is open to tourists for Rp550 admission (open 0800-1700) plus another Rp200 for a single-page info sheet explaining the pictures on the main building. Overnight guests sometimes accepted; Rp70,000 tariff includes breakfast, Balinese rijstaffel, drinks, laundry. Write in advance to the old raja's grandson, Anak Agung Ketut Rai, c/o Puri Agung, Amlapura. Guests may dine on a bale over a lily pond and are also admitted to scheduled palace celebrations.
     Below the palace is a Muslim village, home to the descendants of the raja's slaves imported from Lombok. As if in revenge, these Sasaks besiege the palace daily with their blaring mosque loudspeakers. If coming from the town's center, take the road to the left just before the puri to the small water palace and a memorial statue from Queen Wilhelmina.

Accommodations and Food
Most travelers prefer to stay at more idyllic Tirtagangga or Abian Soan, both about five km from town. On the road to Rendang is Losmen Kembang Ramaja. If you want to stay in Amlapura, there are two losmen close together at the town's entrance. Friendly Losmen Lahar Mas, Jl. Gatot Subroto 1, tel. (0366) 21345, on the left just as you're entering town, charges Rp10,000 s or d with mandi and breakfast. The Rp8000 s or d rooms around a large courtyard are better, more enclosed. Discount of Rp500 if you stay four days or longer. A better place to stay than the run-down, smelly Homestay Sidya Karya, on the right at the beginning of Jl. Gatot Subroto 8 (tel. 0366-21143). Ten rooms for Rp8000 s, Rp10000 d with breakfast of eggs and roti with marmalade. Can be noisy, as traffic streams by outside. The pasar and the bus, bemo, and minibus stations are all about a one-km walk from these losmen.
     There's a rumah makan called Pojok Rasa nearby—nasi goreng and cap cay, Rp1500. Many warung around the stasiun bis, serve Javanese- and Balinese-style nasi campur on banana leaves, sate, and martabak. The Sumber Rasa on J1. Gajah Mada on the way to Puri Agung serves a worthy selection of soups, noodles, and rice dishes.
     A little gem is RM Surabaya on Jl. Kesatrian: really cheap, high-quality soto ayam, cap cay goreng, es campur, hot gado-gado, wonderful es jus nipis, es campur, all Rp1500-3000. Open 0900-2100, and crowded every night. Extremely good value. There's also a pasar malam on Jl. Gajah Madah. Karangasem is the fruit-growing area of Bali—look for fresh papaya, pineapple, belimbing, jambu, and bananas.

Getting Away
About 20 big new buses leave Amlapura for Batubulan every day; the Balinese price is Rp2000. At about 1600 the buses go back to their villages so you have to be lucky to catch one headed to Batubulan or Klungkung after around 1700. At this time of day, it's best to hire an ojek, usually found near the bus/bemo terminal; Rp3000 to Candidasa. Minibuses or bemo to Candidasa and Padangbai (orange, 20 minutes), Selat and Muncan (green), Tirtagangga, Rp500 (seven km, 20 minutes); Klungkung, Rp1000 (38 km, one hour); Denpasar, Rp2000 (two and a half hours, 78 km); Singaraja, Rp2500 (three and a half hours).
     Bemo also travel all the way to Singaraja's Penarukan Terminal along the northeast coast via Culik and Tianyar over a paved road with unusual scenery. Starting at 0400 at the turnoff in the town's outskirts, they run up until around 1600. The trip takes about 2.5 hours. Sit on the left for a better view of the rugged, brooding northern side of Gunung Agung. A good road and new bridges now cross over volcanic washouts and black lava flows along the way. Bicyclists without low gears may want to throw their bikes on top of a minibus up the big hill between Tirtagangga and Culik. Sweeping views of terraced rice fields as you come down into Culik.

Ujung
Four km south of Amlapura, this small coastal fishing village is the site of a majestic old mock European-style water palace surrounded by a moat—a mini Taj Mahal laid out like the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. Reached easily by bemo (Rp500) from the station near Amlapura's pasar, ojek (Rp1000), or dokar (Rp2000 one-way, Rp5000 roundtrip). Or just start walking along the road that winds through Sawah southeast of town.
     Formally opened in 1921, this extensive complex of pavilions, portals, gardens, statues, fountains, canals, and artificial lakes was occupied by the last raja of Karangasem. An avenue of Frangipani and mango trees leads into the complex. In your imagination take the decayed grandeur of ruins crowned with tufted grass, and uprooting plants and reconstruct the king's massive central palace. The stained-glass bungalow with arched, lead-light windows was a curio glittering with bits of mirror and studded with gaudily painted concrete animals gazing out over the ocean.
     This same raja, Anak Agung Anglurah, who obviously had a water fetish, also built the Tirtagangga bathing pools six km northwest of Amlapura, and another small complex of soothing pools at Jungutan near Bebandem. Unfortunately, most of Ujung's buildings and moats did not survive the eruptions and earthquakes of 1963 and 1979. No evidence at all of restoration work supposedly long underway by now. All the better; this elegantly crumbling and desolate attraction should not be missed.
     Take the track down to the black-sand beach 500 meters beyond, with graceful prahu lining the beach and good swimming. Or fish in the palace ponds with a pole borrowed from one of the boys. No official accommodations here, but you could possibly stay with fishing families up on the hill. From here the road climbs up to Seraya, a small market town at the foot of Gunung Seraya (see below).
     Bukit Kangin, up a side road to the left just before Ujung, is a Grecian-style temple built to honor the dynasty's royal founder. Nice view. Several villages hold a festival here during the full moon of the fifth month of the Balinese calendar. Ujung Tengah is a beautiful spot overlooking Ujung. Look for the signs just before you reach Ujung, and follow the road to its end. You'll see foundations of a structure the raja used for rest and meditation. A plaque on the wall bears a 1927 inscription from Queen Wilhelmena. The large cow to the front spills water into a Garuda 10 meters below; there's another statue 20 meters beneath that.

The Road to Amed
Only opened since 1990, this incredible 30-km-long road is one of the wildest and most unvisited on Bali—little traffic, no telephone wires. It follows a tortuous route through arid hills high above the coast. Buy fresh ikan awan in Seraya village at the start. See cattle washed in streams, sweeping panoramas of the Bali Strait, isolated farmlets, grape arbors, and villages of Hindu fishermen with long unbroken lines of jukung with multicolored sails pulled up on the beach after the night's catch.
     It's second and third gear nearly all the way, but the steeply undulating road is fairly well maintained, crawling through one of the poorest districts of Bali. The inhabitants here raise goats and grow small ears of corn, peanuts, and sweet potatoes. The road finally drops down to the fishing and salt-making village of Amed. From Amed, either return to Amlapura via Culik and Tirtagangga or head north along the coastal road to Singaraja via Tulamben.

Abian Soan
In the rice paddies just off the road on the northern edge of the village of Abian Soan, five km west of Amlapura on the road to Bebandem (three km east of Bebandem), is Homestay Lila. It can be difficult to find; only a small sign on a post showing the way. Located on the edge of a small ravine, these small, quaint, non-air conditioned, no-fan little cottages cost Rp7500 s, Rp12,000 d with sinks, bathrooms, verandas, and continental breakfast. The best deal for a family is the whole-house compound, complete with kitchen, oven, and sewing machine for only Rp15,000 per day. All the buildings have electricity; a nice garden of fruit trees out front. Small waterfall nearby. Beautiful scenery: mornings provide the clearest view of Gunung Agung. At 0500 see the sunrise over Gunung Rinjani on Lombok. Order meals through owner Nyoman Lali, he'll hop upon his moped to pick up cap cay and nasi goreng in Amlapura (45 minutes roundtrip). Or shop in Bebandem or Amlapura and cook yourself. From the homestay walk half an hour to Bukit Kusambi, and it's a Rp300 three-km bemo ride to Karangasem.

Bebandem
Nine km west of Amalpura. Every three days there's a big cattle market (pasar hewan) here where you can mingle with the petani amidst the market smells of dirt, dung, coffee, cloves, and cattle. Arrive by 0800 to see the action, shop, and enjoy Balinese drinks. The market reaches its peak of activity at 0800 or 0900, depending on the season.
     Unless it's a long distance, farmers walk their cattle to the Bebandem market; you'll see them strung out all along the Subaga-Rendang road before the dawn. With their long necks, soulful eyes, and fine rusty brown coats, Balinese cattle resemble overgrown deer. Bali's special breed (bos benteng) is found only on this island and no crossbreeding is allowed. Cattle are raised for many purposes: as beasts of burden, for export, for ceremonial purposes, and for meat. The Balinese farmer will only reluctantly sell his cow if he needs money for a ceremony.
     This is no public auction; deals are struck between owners. Cattle are sold according to weight; only after a per kilo price is agreed upon is the beast weighed and the price adjusted accordingly—usually Rp300,000 for a small cow, Rp800,000 for a large ruminant. One section of the market is devoted to pigs (Rp15,000 for a suckling, Rp50,000 for a mid-sized pig). There are baskets of bobbing chickens, pigeons, and ducks.
     To entice farmers and their families, all downtown Bebandem is crowded with stalls selling hand-forged knives, cockfighting spurs, farm tools, impressive daggers, irresistible snacks, cendol stands, tonics to increase virility, trinkets, rings and baubles for the children, sunglasses, pop posters, kain, cassette tapes, and bright, eye-catching clothing. See ironsmiths forging inexpensive padi sickles using hand-pumped billows in the open workshops opposite the pasar hewan. Sit in one of the warung makan near the terminal and look out on the panoply of market life. This is a lovely area; go the back way via Asak to the main Klungkung-Amlapura highway. From Bebandem, it's Rp500 by bemo (nine km) to Amlapura, Rp800 to Rendang.
     Just west of Bebandem you'll see a sign on a side road leading to Tirta Telaga Tista in the village of Jungutan (north of Sibetan). After one km turn left at the monument, then make another left after 500 meters. This pura is an island temple in the middle of an artificial pool under frangipani trees. A serene and little-visited agricultural temple with hills behind and sawah stretching to all sides.

Sibetan
The attractive drive to Sibetan winds through palm-leaf fenced rice fields, flowering teak, fragrant clove trees, and plenty of snakeskin-like salak. Since 1950 Sibetan has been the salak center of Bali, hundreds of hectares planted of this low, thorny palm. The area salaks are known for their crisp, sweet taste, somewhere between apples and strawberries. Price depends on grade, ranging from Rp600 to Rp1000 per kg.
     It requires three to four years of intensive tending for the three-meter-high trees to bear fruit. Pruning plants that have grown too tall and heaping soil around the stalk improves productivity. Planted among coconuts to provide shade, each plant yields from 40 to 50 fruit annually. Since the trees are planted close together, harvesters must crouch between the thorny branches to reach the fruit. The main season for salak is December through February. From October through November, trees bear smaller fruits, called gadon, which are more expensive because they're available so early in the season.

Putung
Located 11 km west of Bebandem, 20 km west of Amlapura, and 68 from Denpasar. This miniature tourist resort is famous for salak grown on area plantations. The accommodations lie at the terminus of a dead-end road. Enjoy the cool fresh air; it doesn't warm up until noon. An ideal place for meditation. Very quiet, these grandiose surroundings will nourish your soul.
     From Amlapura, take a bemo to Bebandem (Rp500), another Rp400 bemo to the turnoff in Duda village, then walk or hitch 2.5 km to the Putung Country Club. Here are five lumbung-style rooms for Rp15,000 to Rp20,000 s, others from Rp20,000 to Rp25,000 d (without breakfast). Each bungalow comes with a good foam mattress, closets, veranda, downstairs mandi and sitting room, loft bedroom with large picture windows. Rooms 4 and 5, with adjoining doors, are perfect for a family (Rp40,000 for both).
     Although plain and basic, what you're paying for is the knockout view. The bungalows sit on the edge of a high cliff over a deep chasm—no padi, just jungle falling sharply away to the sea 700 meters below. This area, it is said, is a favorite haunt of leyak who hover over the nearby hills and cliffs. The restaurant serves Balinese/Indonesian meals for Rp2000-10,000. In the off-season you'll probably have the whole place to yourself.
     Several nice walks in the area. From Putung, take the seven-km-long path via Bakung through gardens and forests down to the coast to Manggis, six km west of Candidasa. Or head west along the road to Rendang, then spectacular terraced rice fields follow the land's dramatic contours to the coast. If you turn south at Duda, you can reach Klungkung via Sidemen.

Selat
A village surrounded by lovely rice terraces rising to Gunung Agung. During festivals, Selat builds a huge barong, requiring up to 20 men to lift it, made entirely of fruits, vegetables, and rice. From Selat, take the country road southwest via Sideman, which comes out just east of Klungkung. Just beyond Selat is the village of Padangaji, known for its gambuh troupe; this classical dance-drama is now rarely performed on Bali. Four km west of Selat, in the peaceful village of Muncan, a special ceremony called Makanplengan is held the day after Nyepi—large costumed figures simulate copulation. Feast on Balinese specialties or European and Chinese cuisine, meanwhile enjoying the scenery from Bukit Jambul Garden Restaurant in Pesaban, south of Rendang to the west.
     The 900-meter-high village of Sebudi, five km north of Selat, is the favored starting point for the five-km southern assault on Gunung Agung. Sebudi is also the location of the very imposing Pura Pasar Agung ("Temple of the Agung Market"). The road to the pura climbs precipitously up through stands of bamboo and salak plantations to the parking lot where you take the 500 steps up to the 1,200-meter-high terraced temple with Gunung Agung towering above. An ethereal and dramatic spot.

Iseh
Three km south of Selat amid bamboo, coffee, and clove trees sits Iseh, a serene mountain village of rice, sweet potatoes, and onions. Approached on a beautiful untrafficked back road from Klungkung, with panoramas of sawah and hilltop temples.
     In 1963, Anna Mathews lived beneath Gunung Agung as the volcano erupted, vividly capturing the terrifying experience in her powerful The Night of the Purnama. Walter Spies, seeking release from his life of notoriety in Campuan, bought an Iseh mountain hut in 1932. In this land of deep ravines, tier after tier of luminous rice fields, and incomparable views of the navel of the world, Spies created some of his most haunting paintings: Sawahlandschaft mit G. Agung ("View across the Sawah to G. Agung," 1937) and Iseh im Morgenlicht ("Iseh in Morning Light," 1938). After Spies died in 1942, the Swiss painter Theo Meier later lived in the same house. Now the house and the cabins behind it belong to the family that owns Homestay Sideman; you can rent the cabins and occasionally the house itself (Rp75,000).

Sidemen
The Swiss ethnomusicologist Ernst Schlager (1900-64) and ethnologist Dr. Urs. Ramseyer lived and worked for many years in the Sideman area, southwest of Iseh. Presently, a Swiss charitable foundation has established a special school here devoted to propagating and strengthening traditional Balinese culture. With 120 students, the school's curriculum includes the study of adat, crafts, music, dance, painting, water divination, calendrical traditions, the Balinese language, traditional penmanship, literature, and the Bali-Hindu religion. Visit also the weaving factory Pertenunan Pelangi opposite Sideman Homestay. There are several workshops and outlets where you can purchase expensive silk kain songket interwoven with designs of gold and silver thread, as well as distinctive Sideman-style endek garments. This beautiful area is also known for its scholarly healers, balian usaba. Here also is enacted the barong ketek, a dance drama concerning a highly esteemed mythical lion. This magical creature also serves a curative function—tirta from his beard is prescribed by area balian to clients ill or enduring ill fortune.
     Sidemen Homestay (tel. 0366-21811) has one of the nicest locations on Bali: 14 comfortable bungalows with fans, fine food (four-course dinners), good service, and superb views. Climb the many steps to enjoy a drink at the bar, with Gunung Agung rearing up behind you. See also Sanur Beach; at night lights sparkle all along the coast. In the vast expanse of sawah in front is a wonderful collection of ragged, multicolored scarecrows.
     Still, the Rp92,000-115,000 charge is an astonishing sum (though guests seem willing to pay it). No air conditioning, kelambu, hot water, nor Visa, but the rooms are nicely furnished, the beds decent, and the ambience peaceful. Good library of Balinesian books in all languages. Ibu Putu also runs Subak Tabola Inn (tel. 0366-23015) that lies in the middle of padi bali, three km from the main road at the end of a walking track; nice gardens, pool, and basic meals served.
     Alternatives? Two km from Sideman Homestay in Desa Tabola is Homestay Patal, a better deal: with six spacious, quiet, and well-kept bungalows at Rp115,000 per night, set in a well-tended garden high on a hillside, half a km from the road. Also check out the American Emerald Star's Tirta Sari; luxury accommodations, meditation center, many sacred rocks in the area.
     Reach Sidemen by traveling west on the scenic road from Amlapura through Bebandem, Putung, and Iseh, or by waiting for a bemo at the turn at Satria (or Sampalan Tenah) northeast of Klungkung, then traveling 12 km through the hills. Stand in front of Sidemen's market for a lift out of town in either direction.

Accommodations
During the busy tourist season, Tirtagangga's seven hotels fill up quickly. Dhangin Taman Inn rents 13 dingy, crowded, very basic rooms varying in price from Rp13,000 to Rp23,000 s or d, depending on size, view, sitting area, and bath. Recent reports of bugs, dirt, burned-out lights. The place seems to be going downhill.
     Tirta Ayu Homestay, tel. (0366) 21697, consists of four bungalows at different angles around a garden, right inside the water palace on a small hill. Owned by the king's descendants, it costs Rp35,000 d for bungalows that includes toilet, shower, fan, pool admission, and breakfast. The tariff includes free admission to the pools of the water palace. Laundry service extra. Charming place to stay; nice lawn for yoga. New two-story, Balinese-style bungalows for Rp130,000 per night.
     Outside the palace complex and across the road is Taman Sari Inn. Here are 25 cool, rustic rooms in adobe bungalows for Rp7000 s, Rp8000 d including breakfast. Double beds, big bathrooms, showers, picture windows looking out on a vast expanse of rice fields with the sea beyond. The two front rooms are the quietest—a best buy. Some rooms in back are even lower in price. The hotel compound is landscaped with bright flowers, ornamental bridges, fish ponds, streams, and tiny Christmas lights. Electricity is on only from 1700 to 0700, and there are too many ants and mosquitoes, but the price is right. Next door to the Taman Sari is the simple but immaculate Homestay Rijasa (tel. 0363-21873) with rooms for Rp13,000 s, Rp15,000 d including complimentary breakfast and tea. Rooms here are cleaner, nicer, and newer than Taman Sari's or Dhangin Taman's, with 24-hour electricity. Small library, laundry, no telephone. Excellent food next door in the warung of the same name.
     Just east of the water palace, up 99 steep steps, is quiet Kusuma Jaya Inn (tel. 0363-21250). Its 18 bungalows, built in a semi-arc along the side of a hill, cost Rp20,000 s, Rp30,000 d for basic bungalows or Rp40,000 for larger deluxe rooms with huge beds, nice mattresses, fans, and big open-air bathrooms. You can sometimes bargain the rates lower. Superb 180-degree views (especially at sunrise and sunset) take in the glittering sea in front and Gunung Agung. Service is excellent, the food is well-prepared and reasonable. The imprisoned house porcupine is depressing. Around the bend find Prima Cottages (tel. 0363-21316). Though its five rooms are small, they're very comfortable. Nice atmosphere, less expensive than the Kusuma Jaya. Great restaurant where people gather in the evenings to play guitar.

Food
Tirtagangga's ground-level accommodations all offer restaurants serving fresh fish taken right from the pools for Rp3000. All feature filling, nutritious nasi goreng; special order Balinese dishes. Tirta Ayu has average food but a great view. At sunset climb the "stairway to heaven" to Kusuma Jaya or Prima for spectacular views and okay Indo-Chinese food.
     Stalls at the head of the road are cheaper, with surprisingly good nasi campur (Rp2000); also cold drinks, fried peanuts, fruits, and bubur. Rice Terrace Cafe is down the hill from the Kusuma Jaya—take the road to the left if coming from Amlapura. Especially nice salads; highly recommended.
     For great music, good food, and a convivial atmosphere try Good Karma, operated by an amiable former clove and vanilla farmer who calls himself Baba ("The King"). "Come for Talking and Joking with Baba for Good Karma" states the sign. "Where the hippies hang out." Decent tourist menu; great music. Ask Baba about his five rental cottages up the coast in Selang—an awesome location.

Getting Away
It's easy to get bemo into Amlapura (Rp500, 20 minutes); they run until 1700. For Singaraja, buses call on Tirtagangga starting at around 0900, doing the 92-km three-hour run for Rp2500. Red bemo also pass from 0400 to 1600 (Rp3000, three to four hours). Get the hotel boys to wake you up. To visit Kintamani from here, take the bemo to Kubutambahan (Rp2000, three hours), then go south one hour to Kintamani (Rp1000). For Candidasa, it's Rp750 by bemo.
     This sparsely populated area lends itself to some dramatic photographs. Just before Culik there's an explosion of vegetation; you can smell it coming. After Culik, not much grows except poinciana, stunted palm trees, kapok, and cacti.

Tanaharon
Make the hike up this miniature Gunung Agung. Turn left at Abang about three km after Tirtagangga and follow it for 10 km. It's 45 minutes to the top from where the asphalt ends beyond Pidpid; the roundtrip walk from Tirtagangga takes five hours. A battle with the Dutch is commemorated by a monument here. Nice lookout points over steep ravines.

Budahkling
In this colony on the slopes of Gunung Agung live two castes of Mahayana Buddhists who've retained pre-Hindu feasting traditions. Balinese come here to ask for the services of Brahmana priests. Also living in the region are descendants of a gold- and silversmiths guild that served the princely Karangasem court prior to WW II. Villagers here make kain songket and sell small selendang for Rp15,000, sarung for Rp50,000, large kain for up to Rp150,000.

Abianjero
Southeast of Ngis, this village is notable for its particularly talented architects, painters, dancers, musicians, and wood- and stonecarvers. Visit the home of Made Kantor, a versatile traditional painter and architect. His younger brother Sujana and son Sudarsa are talented painters in the Pita Maha tradition.

Bukit Lempuyang
To get to Bali's easternmost hill and the site of an important temple, take an ojek from Bajo (Rp2000) to the parking lot about halfway up, then walk to Pura Lempuyang at Abang. About eight km from the main highway (see sign pointing the way to the temple) is a tollgate (Rp500 per person); from where the road ends, it's about a one-km walk to the first small temple, Pura Telagamas. From there it's 4,000 steps to the top through a forest. Start early before it gets too hot. If you go in the afternoon, the mountain is covered in clouds. On clearer mornings you'll see not only Gunung Agung but all the way to the islands of Nusa Penida and Lembongan. During festival times, public bemo run to the end of the road but on other days bemo run only from Abang to Ngis Tista, from where you must start walking (2.5 km). This is one of six major sad kahyangan spiritual points on Bali, right up there in stature with Ulu Watu, Besakih. The whole way up to the sacred site is littered with plastic and trash from drink containers.