NORTHERN GIANYAR REGENCY

TAMPAKSIRING

A early center of Hinduism on Bali, Tampaksiring, just 14 kilometers northeast of Ubud, lies one kilometer south of the sacred bathing place Tirtha Empul, near the source of the Pakrisan River, and two kilometers upstream from monumental Gunung Kawi. Get there by bemo via Gianyar (Rp600). The weather is cool and it often rains lightly in the evenings.

Accommodations and Food
Because of the shortage of accommodations, most people just include Tampaksiring in a day trip from Ubud. The only place to stay in the area is Gusti Homestay, just 100 meters west of the main road, but it's a grotty dive (Rp5000 per person, no breakfast). If coming from the south it's on the left, behind the market in the middle of town. Gusti serves meals. A cheap and good place to eat is Made's Warung. The warung in front of Tirta Empul are okay for snacks and light refreshments. At the top of the stairs at Gunung Kawi enjoy bubur sayur bayan (porridge and vegetables) for only Rp500.

Tirta Empul
Situated in a valley in the northeast corner of Tampaksiring under a spectacular banyan tree, 37 km northeast of Denpasar at the end of a well-signposted road, the Tirta Empul temple and its 20 small sugar-palm thatched shrines are beautifully decorated and maintained. Savor the serene atmosphere of the complex, which is set against a backdrop of surviving forest. Even the souvenir shops outside the temple are neat and orderly. Tirta Empul is on nearly every tour group's itinerary of central Bali. Fleets of tour buses visit the site, which is open only during daylight hours. From the parking lot, visitors have to run the usual gauntlet of souvenir stands to the temple compound, which you may enter after renting a sash (Rp500); entrance Rp1100. Seeking protective blessings and deliverance from illness, people journey from all over Bali to bathe in this sacred cleansing spring where terrifying garuda scowl down on naked bathers floating among the lily pads. Seeing it on a rainy day adds even more mystery to the site.
There's a large square altar dedicated to Batara Indra, and elaborate carvings adorn the lichen-covered walls surrounding the pools. Built under the rule of Sri Candrabhaya Singha Warmadewa in the 10th century, the complex was completely restored and given a new paint job in 1969. Tirta Empul conforms to the structure of most Balinese temples. It's divided into three main courtyards: the front, the middle, and the inner sanctum. Backing the outer courtyard are two rectangular bathing pools, one for men and one for women. According to tradition, each of the pool's 15 fountains has its own name and function: spiritual purification, cleansing from evil, antidote to poison. The gin-clear freshwater spring at a higher level is the source of the water that bubbles up under the pools. The water is so clear plants growing at the bottom of the pool are clearly visible, as are a number of fish and a rather large eel. Because it's believed that from this spring bubbles the elixir of immortality, it's surrounded by a wall to prevent it from being profaned.
The Balinese use holy water as an essential part of almost every ritual. Their religion is in fact called Agama Tirta, or "The Religion of the Holy Water." Tirta Empul's water is looked upon as the holiest on Bali, widely thought to possess magical curative powers. The spring is believed to have been created by the god Indra, who pierced the Earth to tap amerta, the restoring waters that brought back to life his army, which was poisoned by the demon-king Mayadanava.

Events
Regular ceremonies are held at this sanctuary, particularly during Galungan, when dance clubs from the surrounding area bring their sacred barong masks to be purified by the spring's water.
An inscription in Old Balinese found in the village of Manukaya, north of Tirta Empul, states that two ponds were formed here in A.D. 962. When the badly worn inscription was finally deciphered by Sutterheim in 1969, it described in detail the ritual cleansing of a holy stone during the full moon of the fourth month in the Balinese calendar. For more than 1,000 years villagers from Manukaya carried a stone to the spring for purification rites on the precise day each year of Tirta Empul's founding, never knowing the origin or the reason, only that it was adat. Since none of the villagers then knew what the old inscription read, the date of the temple's founding must have been handed down orally through 33 generations of invasions, dynastic changes, and natural disasters.

Crafts
In the parking lot are 400 meters of stalls selling everything from bone and ivory carvings to coconut shell ornaments and chess sets. The best deals are the painted wooden jewelry and carved cow bone ornaments. The bone- and ivory-carving industry is centered around Manukaya.
     The shop of I Gusti Aji Meranggi in Banjar Masangambu, 500 meters north of Tirta Empul, specializes in carvings of deer horn and ivory imported from Flores. Large, intricately carved tusks cost from two million rupiah, depending on the size and complexity of the carving. On the road up to Tampaksiring are numerous shops selling carvings from the workshops of Sebatu to the north, a busy woodcarving area.
     This is also the area for Bali quilts, hand-painted fabrics quilted by machine, as well as colorful and cleverly designed bedcovers. Two or three km beyond Tampaksiring you'll see quilts flapping in the wind, draped on lines outside at least 12 shops specializing in color-rich—bordering on garish—quilts in a variety of sizes. A shop (actually a whole complex of shops) with a big selection is Dewa Made Astina right on the highway.
     Prices run Rp75,000-250,000. You can usually bargain down from there. Dacron-filled quilts are nearly twice as expensive as foam-filled ones. Hand-painted cotton shirts and kimonos are also for sale. Every salesclerk asks for a dollar tip upon close of sale. Gardana Art Collection, beyond Tampaksiring in Kayuambua, also has a good selection. Kesuma Nadi Shop and the Ketut Gisi Collection across the street have pretty good prices.

Istana Tampaksiring
Two km north of Tampaksiring, the road branches to the right for Tirta Empul, while the left road climbs to a hilltop retreat built by Sukarno in 1954. Park for Rp500 and pay an entrance fee of Rp1000; open daily during daylight hours. With its large, well-kept lawns, this is a lovely place to walk. Since you can't enter any of the buildings, content yourself with looking in the windows.
     This splendid presidential palace, its two main buildings connected by a footbridge, is a classic example of the first truly Indonesian national architectural style. The sprawling, one-story buildings, built along the lines of a Javanese pendopo, feature grooved plaster columns and the geometrically hardlined look of the art deco era. Sukarno is said to have designed the whole complex, a sort of ranch-house/social realism combo, an architectural amalgam he picked up during his engineering training at ITB in Bandung. Sukarno was half Balinese and he visited the island frequently, usually staying in this resthouse. The istana purposefully and incongruously overlooks the Balinese Fountain of Eternal Youth, as if it were the dictator's intention to prolong his "President-for-Life" status indefinitely. When Suharto visits, he always stays in Wisma Negara rather than Wisma Merdeka, where Sukarno's ghost is said to roam.
     On the palace grounds are four complexes: Wisma Merdeka, the personal residence of the president; Wisma Negara, guesthouse for friends or guests of state; Wisma Yudistira, for use by the press corps; and Wisma Bima, for presidential bodyguards. There's also a beautiful pendopo for dance performances and a small aviary with hornbills, eagles, and peacocks. Completely restored in 1957 and well-maintained ever since, all buildings are in mint condition with some of the original furnishings intact.
     Hordes of Japanese, fascinated with Sukarno memorabilia, visit the istana. The palace provides an excellent view of the whole Tirta Empul sanctuary. The story goes that the dictator could look down through a telescope upon naked women bathing below, sending for those who pleased him and eventually siring a few children upon them. You may meet Sukarno's daughter, now in her thirties, working in Warung Bitar in the parking lot/souvenir market.
     The Soviet Premier Khrushchev once watched a topeng legong dance on these palace grounds at a time (1965) when Sukarno's government had incurred debts of US$2.5 billion, half on loans for purchases of military equipment from Russia. After Sukarno was toppled in 1967, the palace became once again a government resthouse and museum, now open to the public.

Vicinity of Tampaksiring
Surrounded by large mossy trees, Pura Gumang, a 30-minute walk northeast of Munukaya, is an early Shivaite temple with a large gateway, huge linga and trident, carvings of mythical Hindu-Javanese sea monsters, and worn statue of Shiva's bull Nandi. Pura Mengening, a little west of Tirta Empul, is a sacred and picturesque spring under a large tree. The freestanding candi here, containing some ancient statues, is similar to those at Gunung Kawi. Atop a nearby hill is a venerable old pura which may have been dedicated to King Udayana. The connection between the three holy sites of Tirta Mancingan, Tirta Empul, and Gunung Kawi is obvious.

GUNUNG KAWI

Two kilometers south of Tampaksiring, on the banks of the upper course of the sacred Pakrisan River, Gunung Kawi ("Mountain of Poetry") lies in the heart of the archaeologically rich Pejeng area, a region where Hinduism first took hold on Bali. Gunung Kawi—open daily only during daylight hours—is one of the more impressive historical sites on Bali: a blinding green watery canyon where two rows of ancient blackened tombs have been hewn out of natural rock hillsides as royal memorials.
The whole complex is well swept and well maintained and should be visited in the cool mornings or late afternoons when few tourists are about. At the lookout on top of the long, steep stairway, look down upon overwhelming scenery: sunlit waterfalls and palm-studded rice terraces plunging to a deep ravine with a rushing river flowing through it all. The holy water of the river was meant to sanctify the site. Carved into niches on two facing cliffs, the somber and unembellished temples contain no interior chambers, only facades. Built in the late 11th century, the temples are remarkably well preserved. There are 10 temples in all. Across the gorge is an abandoned hermitage for the keepers of the tombs. All around flows holy water and steep-sided rock walls covered with dripping moss, all of which gives the site an elevated and venerated atmosphere.

History
Goa Gajah and these temples are the earliest known monuments of Balinese art. The Balinese knew of the Gunung Kawi candi long before they were "discovered" by H.T. Damte in 1920. Local lore says the legendary Kebo Iwo carved the ancient structures in one night with his fingernails—he's credited with carving nearly all the ancient monuments between the Pakrisan and Petanu Rivers.
     Heavily weathered inscriptions etched over the sham doors of the candi date construction to the 11th century. The highly decorative script used here was in vogue during the East Javanese Kediri period. The Balinese usually prefer ornamentation to bulk, but not at Gunung Kawi, where the monolithic-style architecture obviously originates from Java. Urs Ramseyer observed that the tombs resemble Indian temples.
     Stone monuments are rare on Bali, which only adds to the mystery surrounding the purpose of the structures. The structural difference between these and Javanese candi is that the impressively scaled Gunung Kawi monuments are not freestanding but are hewn in relief out of a solid rock hillside. Each candi is seven meters high and cut inside its own deep niche to provide protection. Further protection came from an erosion-resistant hard plaster coating that has long since vanished. Each group of candi rests on a common base accessible by a stone staircase. Naga gargoyle spouts once channeled water above the candi to anoint bathers and irrigate the fields.
     There's little doubt each temple served as a memorial to deified royalty, as they're shaped like the burial towers found all over Central and East Java. The exact identity of the royal personages honored here is unknown. One very credible theory suggests the five candi in the main group were built for King Udayana, his Javanese queen Gunapriya, his concubine, his illustrious eldest son Erlangga who ruled over East Java, and his youngest son Anak Wungsu. Reigning over Bali from A.D. 1050 to 1077, Anak Wungsu is believed to have given up his kingdom to become a religious hermit.
     The candi on the far left in the row of five, placed higher than the rest, may be that of King Udayana. The four candi on the other side of the river were built for the chief concubines of Anak Wungsu. Another theory suggests this whole mausoleum complex enshrines the memory of only Anak Wungsu and his royal wives and favorite concubines, who most likely immolated themelves to follow their sovereign into the afterlife.

Attractions
The "Tenth Tomb," discovered only a few years after Gunung Kawi's discovery by W.O.J. Nieuwenkamp, is either a memorial to a high priest or a high-caste state official, possibly Anak Wungsu's prime minister, Rakryan, who died after his master. A boy from the toko oleh-oleh (souvenir shop) near the bridge will take you along a path through sawah to this odd candi removed from the main complex. The one-km-long walk takes you by a small gateway hewn from rock. To the left of the Tenth Tomb are more niches.
To the right of the main ensemble of temples is a Buddhist monks' cloister (patapan) with five cells carved out of rock. In the confluence of the Oos River in Campuan, near Ubud, several other ascetic cells were also discovered, indicating the monastic tradition was entrenched in 11th-century Bali. Gunung Kawi's cloister inmates most likely were caretakers of the candi. There's a second hermitage near the main cloister, consisting of niches around a central courtyard, which might have served as sleeping quarters for visiting pilgrims.

Getting There and Away
From Tampaksiring, Gunung Kawi is a two-km walk south on the road to Pejeng, or take a bemo for Rp500. The small road to the tombs is on the left in Desa Panaka. From the main road, walk 600 meters to the ticket office—Rp1100 entrance, Rp300 parking—then walk through a fortress-like gateway and descend 315 stone steps that wind down into the gorge, at one point through a stretch of solid rock, emerging onto the bank of the river.
Souvenir and drink stands line the walkway down to the ravine but their presence is not cloying. During the descent, pause along the way to catch the views. At one point you can make out the tip of Pura Mengening. There are actually two Gunung Kawis, so don't be confused. In Sebatu village five km to the north is the bathing spot of Pura Gunung Kawi.

TEGALLALANG

From Keliki, there's a good road to this village north of Ubud, about five km before Sebatu. Or take the path on the right between Ubud and Campuan, go down to the river, and at the bottom of the ravine take the right fork up to Tegallalang—you'll be transported back to the Bali of the 1950s. For the Gunung Kawi monuments and Tirta Empul temple in Tampaksiring, take the road from Tegallalang via Pujung, or enjoy the very scenic drive from Tegallalang to the Bali Aga mountain village of Taro.
In northern Tegallalang, the Blue Yogi Cafe, tel. (0366) 91768, with its fabulous location just above the road, makes for a relaxing, breezy stop or place to stay while on the road north to Gunung Batur. Quite inventive menu: potato leek and Thai tom yum soup Rp3500, tandoori chicken Rp5800, vegetarian curry with real chutney and Indian-style cucumber salad Rp5100, great cake desserts. Nicely carved doorways and rice fields and mountains in the background. There are four comfortable two-story bungalows (Rp25,000 s or d) in the garden behind the restaurant, which are sometimes rented out to groups studying yoga. The farthest bungalow, with rice fields out both windows, is the best (but noisy servants' quarters next door).
The Tegallalang area is the place to buy woodcarvings—flowers, animals, birds—at better prices than in Ubud. Particularly known for superb garuda statues. Look in at the Bunga Mekar Art Shop, run by Ketut Tunas; it's cheaper and has more creative suns and moons than the shop next door. Few tourists ever visit these shops so you'll be received enthusiastically.

PUJUNG

A woodcarving village in the mountains five km north of Tegallalang. Between Tegallalang and Pujung are exquisite rice fields to the right side of the road. Coming from the south, 500 meters before turning right toward Sebatu, is a small shop selling handmade chess games starting at Rp30,000—a bit expensive, but beautiful work.
An even more spectacular road is from Gentong to Bayad. Heading east out of Ubud, turn left at the T-junction and travel northward toward Petulu. At Gentong turn right toward Kenderan. This road takes you through untraveled rice terrace landscapes all the way to Bayad; from here you can turn left to Pujung or right to Tampaksiring. Pujung village is divided into two banjar, Pujungklod and Pujungkaja. Visit the workshops of Anantaloga, Kresna Asih, Nyoman Pugra, Sri Sedana, Wayan Gede Artha, Wayang Nyungkal, and Wayang Tata, all specializing in different styles and sizes of garuda carvings, painted wooden banana trees, jewelry, and colored spirit boxes. Generally, the prices are better than in Mas or Kemenuh. The selection is immense, including some old woodcarvings, so take your time. Copies of old woodcarvings are a good deal. Always check for cracks; this can be a problem with cheap wood.
Leaving Pujung, travel another 20 km on the back road to Lake Batur. Just when you've had enough of this dirt road, Gunung Batur pops up. From Pujung, several roads head east to Tampaksiring; take the smaller one which bears left off the main road as it turns down to the pasar.

SEBATU

Two km east of Pujung, take the road opposite the road to Taro. On the way, stop and see the Duckman, the first Balinese sculptor to carve ducks on a commercial scale—he's quite famous now. The Sebatu area is the best place on Bali to buy small wooden crafts. There's a cluster of shops in the countryside selling painted wooden suns, moons, stars, flying goddesses, and animals for only Rp1000-4000 apiece.
     See the huge elephants at the shop Sedana Yogya. In Telepud, Wayan Astika carves fanciful suns and moons in natural browns and black stains, as well as stools in the shape of striped cats (Rp6000-10,000). He and other carvers create made-to-order work as well. When the road goes down, turn right toward Sebatu. In a small valley before the village is the Pura Gunung Kawi, a bathing place with stone stautes of maidens spouting water, carved stone naga, sacred golden carp, and lichen-covered ancient walls. The temple is in an exceptionally pretty spot against a backdrop of rich green foilage. At dusk small bats fill the air. Discreetly, have a look at the people having mandi, but don't take photos. The rectangular bathing place is separated into men's and women's sections.
     Sebatu is a village of woodcarvers and musicians. In front of the temple are a few shops displaying a mass of wooden crafts. Look for sensual figures and exquisitely carved garuda statuary. Note the difference between the masks of Mas and those of Sebatu; the lines and colors of masks from Mas are pure, while those of Sebatu are more exuberant. Mas makes god's masks, Sebatu devil's masks. Bargain as much as possible; the sellers are receptive. Every three days the village pasar takes place in the area in front of the temple.
     From the temple, the road continues to the peaceful village itself, which few tourists ever visit. It consists mainly of one street of houses decorated with plants and flowers. The village is very active in dance and music, renowned as much as Peliatan. It's home to a noted dance troupe that once toured the world. Ask to see the photos of Balinese in fur coats in London. Incredibly, this small village possesses three orchestras. Rehearsals take place at 2000 every night, except during harvest. This is an opportunity to see people performing without enduring the clicking of cameras and flashes. Travelers without their own transportation should be aware that bemo back to Ubud stop running around 1600 or 1700. From Sebatu, a small road before the temple leads to Tampaksiring and on to Gunung Batur.

TARO

Between Pujungklod and Pujungkaja, take the road northwest for six km to the small village of Taro. Set on a hillside and hidden behind a palm forest, Taro seems removed from the world. The village marks the exact center of Bali. This area is known for its litchis, picturesque buff sandstone quarries, and unique architecture. These highlanders own the largest coffee plantation in the regency, a remnant of the big Chinese-owned estates of the last century. Taro domesticates the only hybrid breed of white cattle on the island. Since the locals believe this albino stock is holy, they are not used for work, may not be sold or eaten, and are strictly quarantined to keep the breed pure.
In Taro is the longest and one of the largest and most beautiful bale agung on Bali. This great pavilion, located in the village's pura desa, is the heart of the political and religious life of the community. Note the little bridge placed over a hole in front of the temple gate over which only the pure—gods and virgins—can pass.
According to legend, in the 8th century the itinerant priest Danghyang Markandeya visiting from his hermitage in East Java built Pura Gunung Raung with his entourage on the present-day site of Taro; they began breeding the white cattle before moving on to found Campuan's Pura Gunung Lebah and, according to some scholars, Pura Besakih on Gunung Agung in east Bali.