BENOA PORT AND SERANGAN ISLAND

BENOA PORT

A short boat ride from Benoa village at the Tanjung Peninsula's northern tip, or a relatively long trip by road around the cape via Jimbaran, takes you to the other side of Benoa Harbor to Benoa Port on the southern coast of Bali. For hundreds of years, reef-sheltered Labuhan Benoa was the entry point from the sea for all of south Bali. The accummulation of alluvium has long since rendered much of this natural harbor unnavigable, but a long causeway was built by the Dutch after their 1906 invasion. At the end are fuel tanks, a big wharf, dozens of moored vessels, warehouses, a lighthouse, fisheries, charter-boats offices, and a Pelni office.
     Reach Benoa from Denpasar's Tegal Station by bemo for around Rp1000. A chartered bemo from Kuta will run Rp9000-12,000. If traveling by car, 10 km from Denpasar and just south of Pasanggaran on the main Kuta/Sanur road, turn right and travel down a two-kilometer-long jetty (Jl. Pelabuhan) which stretches toward the northeast corner of the Bukit Peninsula.
     Large cargo ships, fishing boats, oil tankers, cruise ships, private yachts, and intraisland kapal layar moor in this wide and shallow bay. The port is also the location of the Bali International Yacht Club, tel. (0361) 288391. If you'd like to crew on one of the visiting overseas yachts, hire a jukung to take you around to the different vessels; ask if there are any openings. Visiting oceangoing yachts usually arrive at this anchorage in the high season. If you get on as crew, give the captain your passport and he'll clear it with the harbormaster when he gets the Sailing Permit (surat ijin belayar).
     Catch the high-speed hydrofoil Mabua Express to Lombok. With its twin hulls and high-tech design, this vessel will get you to Lembar in West Lombok quickly, comfortably, safely, and reliably. Enjoy stunning views while you luxuriate in a spacious air conditioned lounge with TV, video, and refreshments. Departs Benoa at 0830, arrives 1030; departs Lembar 1300, arrives back in Benoa 1500. Book through your travel agent, or call their offices directly, tel./fax (0361) 772370. The fare from Bali to Lombok is about Rp40,000; return about Rp35,000.
     For the names and addresses of all the chartered yacht outfits operating fully equipped, luxury yachts out of this port to the island of Nusa Penida 24 km offshore, see the "Getting Around" section of the Introduction. These well-promoted companies will pick you up at your hotel for an early morning departure, arriving in a quiet bay off Nusa Lembongan two to two and a half hours later. These outings are especially popular with surfers who are able to paddle in to—not out to—the reef breaks off Nusa Lembongan. Late that afternoon you sail back to the mainland, enjoying the sunset en route. The price, which includes transfers, meals, and snorkeling gear is Rp161,000-173,000 per person (children half price).

SERANGAN ISLAND

Also known as Turtle Island or Pulau Sakenan, this dry, low-lying, 73-hectare, three-kilometer-long island formed on the sandbar at the entrance to Labuhan Benoa, only 250 meters off the southeast coast of Bali. The island's lovely, palm-lined southern beach is visible from the village of Benoa at the northern tip of the Tanjung Peninsula. At the northern end of Serangan are two villages, Pojok and, just 500 meters to the south, Dukuh, connected by a bridge over an inlet. Settled by Islamic Buginese from South Sulawesi, the villages are home to a Muslim mosque and a cemetery. Islanders—both Muslim and Hindu—live together harmoniously, selling shell artifacts to tourists, cultivating turtles, and growing maize, corn, and peanuts. There's only one losmen on the island, Homestay Santap Sari, located on the east coast near the pura dalem. They have six neat rooms with terraces, Rp15,000-25,000. Good warung serving seafood are found along the track leading to Pura Sakenan.
     Unfortunately, Serangan has become a bit of a tourist trap. The island's main attraction seems to be a muddy pool inhabited by greenback turtles (kura-kura), 50 meters east of the Pojok jetty. Shops selling seashell and turtle-shell artifacts and cold drinks surround the pond. Despite its population of only 2,500, you'll likely be hounded by vendors, who try to sell you trays full of porcelain, Venus' combs, and tawny bishop's miters, as well as highly polished turtle shells. The latter you should buy only if you want to contribute to the extinction of these giant reptiles, now the focus of a worldwide conservation effort.
     Green sea turtles (Chelonia mydas) are caught in the surrounding shallow coastal waters, or simply turned on their backs when they come ashore at night to lay eggs. First kept alive in bamboo pens, then fattened on seagrass or leaves, they're eventually slaughtered at Pegok on the outskirts of Denpasar. The meat is then sold to restaurants for turtle steaks and sate, or used as a vital ingredient in the Balinese ceremonial specialty, lawar. There used to be a balance between supply and demand on Bali, but now because of the voracious Balinese market hundreds of these magnificent wild animals must be imported from the eastern islands and Maluku. If you're fortunate, on a moonlit night you can watch them lay eggs on Serangan's beach. Eggs are now imported from West Java and buried in the sand so that tourists can see them hatch here. There's also a turtle egg hatchery on the island.

Sights
One kilometer south of Dukuh is Serangan's slender Pura Sakenan, a two-part sea temple, sacred to all south Bali. A feature of this seaside pura is its peculiar, graceful bersayap-style winged candi bentar. Inside is an obelisk to the rice goddesss, Dewi Sri. Legend has it Pura Sakenan was founded by the 10th century wanderer-priest Mpu Kuturan. It shares the same guardian statues and decorative designs as its contemporary, Pura Uluwatu, on the Bukit, and was constructed with the same material—hard coral stone. The more squarish Pura Susunan Wadonan contains pyramid-shaped prasada—Javanese candi-style, stepped shrines, but without the cella. The combination of candi and prehistoric pre-Hindu stepped pyramid is seldom seen in Balinese temple architecture.

Events
It's best to visit the island at festival time. Once every 210 days, a Turtle Festival (Manis Kuningan) is held at the Pura Sakenan sea temple in the north of the island, one of Bali's eight most sacred public temples. For the two-day odalan festival, droves of people are ferried or wade across the sandbars bearing offerings to the sea gods. At the same time, towering giant puppets for the barong landung dance are carried by canoe in a water procession. A big colorful fair takes place outside the temple as throngs of people in all their finery stream in and out.

Getting There
The most common method is by motorized boat from Desa Suwung, about 1.5 km south of Sanur; you'll see the sign pointing to Serangan Island. There are no regular bemo but you can just charter one, Rp5000, from Sanur. Take a right turn off Jl. Bypass, then drive past shrimp farms and mangroves to the estuary where motorized longboats wait for passengers. The outrageous price is Rp25,000 (20 minutes); bargain the fare while waiting for other passengers to arrive to split the cost. The boat then negotiates the narrow and very shallow channel through the swamps. Once on the island, get to Pura Sakenan from the north by walking south over the bridge to the banjar of Dukuh. From Dukuh, follow the path that leads across the cement causeway over the lagoon then through a coconut grove.
     From Tanjung Benoa, plan on about 20 minutes each way to cross the bay by prahu motor, and at least a half-day on the island. The fishermen ask as much as Rp30,000 first price, but will come down to Rp20,000. From Tanjung's tip, it's possible to walk across the mud to Pulau Serangan when the tide is low. Also, inquire at the water-sport centers in Tanjung, Sanur, Nusa Dua, and Kuta about day snorkeling excursions to coral formations off Serangan's east coast; these cost about Rp45,000 for a three- or four-hour excursion, including transport and equipment.