Buleleng

SINGARAJA

A small seaport and the capital of Buleleng featuring tree-lined avenues, quiet residential perimeters, a wide market street, rows of bright Chinese shops, and horse-drawn carts amidst frenetic traffic. Singaraja is reminiscent of Java; traders from all over Asia have called at the port of Buleleng since the 10th century, trading arms, opium, and kepang for fresh water, food, livestock, and slaves. Each group has greatly impacted the cultural life of the city.
     Singaraja means "lion king," a name commemorating a palace built in 1604 by Raja Panji Sakti. The Dutch fought the powerful raja at a fierce battle in the nearby village of Jagaraga, finally taking control of the northern Buleleng region in 1849. By 1882, Singaraja was the administrative center, principal harbor, and trading center for Bali and all the islands to the east.
     Bali's road system wasn't constructed until the 1920s, when the first trickle of tourists began arriving in Singaraja's harbor on KPM steamers. Tours described in prewar travel books start in Singaraja. Small groups of tourists were chauffeured from the wharf over the mountains to southern Bali's "native districts," then quite an arduous journey.
     During WW II, after the Japanese successfully occupied Indonesia, they established there headquarters in Singaraja. When the Dutch returned to Bali after WW II, they transfered their administrative offices to Denpasar because of its proximity to the new airport and much greater population density.
     With a present population of more than 550,000 people, Singaraja is Bali's second largest city. It's cleaner, less polluted, less congested, and more attractive and relaxing than Denpasar. The influence of non-Balinese—Chinese, Bugis, Javanese, Malays, Indians, Arabs—is more noticeable in Singaraja than in other parts of Bali, as this city has been a marketplace for the Java sea trade economy for over a thousand years.

SIGHTS

The only part of the city that has retained its original character is the densely packed merchant's quarter south of the harbor. Many imposing residences and examples of European architecture still stand, reminders of Singaraja's former grandeur as the Dutch capital of Bali and all the islands to the east. A number of these white-painted colonial edifices can be found along Jl. Ngurah Rai, heading south from the harbor up to the winged lion statue, where Jl. Ngurah Rai meets Jl. Pahlawan. In Indonesian called Tugu Singa Amabara Raja, the lion symbolizes the dynamic spirit of the people of Buleleng and serves as the regency's coat of arms.
     At the top of Jl. Ngurah Rai is the Kantor Bupati, once the official residence of the Dutch "Resident" (a sort of governor). After independence it was used as the Indonesian Governor's office when Singaraja was the capital of Nusatenggara. In 1958, Nusatenggara was divided into three provinces—Bali, Nusa Tenggara Timur, Nusa Tenggara Barat—and the island's capital was moved from Singaraja to Denpasar. The building remained vacant until 1970, when it was used as the headquarters of the Fifth Regional Defensive Command. In 1977 it was converted into the Hotel Singaraja; in 1982 it became the mayor's office.
     Enjoy beautiful sunsets over the old harbor area. Walk through the narrow streets and along the seawall and try to imagine the days when this was one of the Dutch East Indies' busiest entrepôts. Now only a few small fishing and cargo prahu bob offshore. See abandoned and decaying coffee and tobacco gudang, shophouses, the crumbling old Port Authority office, and an antique arched steel bridge. This old anchorage at the mouth of the Buleleng River, poorly protected from bad weather, has long since silted up. Celukanbawang, 40 km west of Singaraja, now serves as Buleleng's principle export harbor.
     Near the waterfront, the haunting statue of freedom fighter Ketut Merta points seaward. After WW II, in the chaotic period between the Japanese surrender and the Dutch return, the crew of a Dutch patrol boat hoisted the Dutch flag in Buleleng Harbor; Ketut Merta climbed to replace it with the red-and-white Indonesian banner. He was machine-gunned from the Dutch boat the minute he stepped away from the pole. During the Indonesian struggle for independence it was common for guerrillas to use nicknames like Pak Hitam ("Mr. Black"), Pak Cilik ("Mr. Small"), etc. Ketut Merta was known as I Lontong, ("Mr. Steamed Rice"). Nothing has changed: in April 1995 Indonesian soldiers shot a man to death after he raised the Irian independence banner, moved by the same spirit that inspired heroic "Mr. Steamed Rice" 50 years previously. A shrine commemorating I Lontong is located around the corner opposite the Chinese temple.
     The huge Hindu temple Pura Jagatnatha is on Jl. Pramuka; in the evenings the local gamelan rehearses in the first courtyard. Singaraja's pura dalem, on Jl. Gajah Mada below the cemetery, contains a wall of incredible phantasmagoric reliefs depicting Balinese heaven and hell and the dire consequences of earthly sins. See miscreants with their tongues pulled out, arms sawed off, boiled, beaten, and stabbed. A large Chinese klenteng in the eastern part of the city houses priceless vases and tapestries. In the west part of town is the Chinese cemetery Bukit Suci with unusually marked and decorated graves; turn north just east of Terminal Banyuasri and travel down Jl. Pantai Lingga. There's a fishing village and swimming beach nearby.

Gedong Kirtya
Holy objects are ordinarily stored out of sight in high places, but in Singaraja you can view sacred lontar books at Gedong Kirtya at the east end of Jl. Veteran. The only library of its kind in the world, the 3,000-odd lontar stored in labeled tin boxes in this small nondescript archive record the literature, mythology, magic formulas, medical science, folklore, religion, and history of Bali and Lombok. Many of the lontar were looted from the palace in Mataram during the Dutch military expedition to Lombok 1894. The library was established in 1928 by L.J. Caron, a Dutch resident of the time; pictograms above the gate show the year.
These miniature pictures and texts etched on the blades of the lontar palm and protected by ornamented narrow wooden boards, are masterpieces of the art of illustration. The leaves are etched with a sharp knife, the incisions then filled with a mixture of soot and oil. One of the jobs of the museum is to transliterate the most ancient and rarest palm-leaf texts into the romanized Balinese language. So sacred are these manuscripts many Balinese are afraid to enter Gedong Kirtya lest they be cursed by spirits.
Look for examples of prasastis, metal plates inscribed with Old Balinese edicts from the Pejeng-Bedulu dynasty, among the earliest written documents found on the island. Gedung Kirtya also contains rare Dutch and English books, a complete collection of traditional Balinese calendars dating back to 1935, and an extensive archive of Balinese "scriptures"—actually high-quality copies; the originals remain with dukun and rajas' families. Near the institute are the royal temples Puri Kawan directly behind the library, and Puri Kanginan to the northeast. Open 0800 to 1400. Closes 1100 Friday, 1200 Saturday. Leave a donation. For more information call (0362) 22645.

ACCOMMODATIONS

Most Singaraja hotels cater to Indonesian business or pegawi. If you're staying longer than a day, it's more pleasant to stay six kilometers away at Lovina Beach than in the city itself. In Singaraja the budget hotel with the most character is Hotel Ratna on Jl. Imam Bonjolioz, Rp8000 s. There are also some Rp10,000 d rooms in front, while Rp15,500 d rooms feature kamar mandi. The upstairs rooms in back are quietest.
     Most of Singaraja's hotels are conveniently located on Jl. Jen. A. Yani, heading west out of town. Hotel Garuda, at no. 76, tel. (0362) 22191, charges Rp10,000 s, Rp12,500 d with breakfast. Lots to choose from two sets of rooms, but no personality. On the other end of the scale, with personality plus, is Tresna Homestay, J1. Gajeh Mada 95 (tel. 0362-21816). The rooms at Hotel Duta Karya, tel. (0362) 21467, next to the Nitour/Garuda office on Jl. Jen A. Yani, have fans, intercoms, and sinks for Rp12,000 s, Rp15,500 d with bath; five air-conditioned rooms go for twice as much. Breakfast includes toast with egg and Bali coffee. Nice courtyard. A cafeteria serving Chinese seafood and Muslim dishes is only 100 meters away. More central Hotel Sentral, at no. 48, tel. (0362) 21896, is Rp9000 s, Rp12,000 d with fan, inside mandi, and breakfast; air-conditioned rooms run Rp25,500 s, Rp35,000 d. Twenty-six rooms in all. Hotel Cendrawasih, next door to the Sentral, seems to be full all the time at rates of Rp8000 s, Rp12,000 d. Clean, well-run Hotel Sedana Yoga, Jl. Gajah Mada 136, tel. (0362) 21715, asks Rp10,500 s, Rp15,000 d for rooms with fans, and Rp25,000 s, Rp35,500 d for air-conditioned rooms. Breakfast included. For the price, the most pleasant of any Singaraja hotel.
     Hotel Gelar Sari, at Jl. Jen. A. Yani 87, tel. (0362) 21495, charges Rp10,000 s, Rp15,500 d. All bathrooms outside rooms. Only coffee and tea, no breakfast. Laundry service. Clean and adequate for the price, though a bit far from town. The Saka Bindu, also on Jl. Jen. A. Yani nearly across the street from the Gelasari, tel. (0362) 21719, wants only Rp8000 but is dumpy and riven with mosquitoes. Rooms with kamar kecil and mandi outside.
     The newest, most comfortable accommodations is upmarket Hotel Wijaya, Jl. Jend. Sudirman 74, tel. (0362) 21915, featuring rooms with fan for Rp18,000 s, Rp22,000 d; or Rp42,000 s, Rp45,000 d for air-conditioned rooms. Breakfast, tax, and service included in price. Suite rooms cost Rp65,000 s, Rp70,000 d with color TV, telephone, fridge, private bath, and hot water. Credit cards accepted. Restaurant in front, courteous staff. Convenient location near Banyuasri Station.

FOOD

For strong north Bali coffee, try Agus Mahardika in Hotel Ratna, Jl. Imam Bonjolioz 100-102 (tel. 0362-21396 or 21851). Good, inexpensive eating near Banyuasri Station at Pasar Anyar, which opens at 1800 (es campur, soto, bakwan, sate kambing) in the Jalan Durian area. More expensive restaurants are located in the shopping complex Taman Lila (Pasar Mumbul) on Jl. A. Yani within walking distance of the big downtown intersection. Try Restaurant Ghandi, tel. (0362) 21163, for high-quality Chinese dishes—mie, prawns, lobster, pigeon—the shrimp vermicelli soup (Rp2500) is outstanding. Next door is the older and popular Restaurant Kartika, tel. (0362) 41296, for Chinese, Balinese, Indonesian, and seafood dishes. Order specials like bebek tutu a day ahead or choose from a reasonably priced menu (Rp4000-5000). Adequate parking. In the same complex is Nurhayat Warung Muslim, Jl. Jen. A. Yani 25 B. Other noteworthy restaurants along J1. Jen. A. Yani: Avina at no. 53; Cafeteria at no. 55; Kantin at 55 B.
An uncommonly good Chinese eatery is Restaurant Segar I on Jl. Erlangga near the harbor. Though very plain, almost open to the street, it serves a great nasi campur with lots of shrimp for Rp3000; Indonesian food too. Restaurant Segar II is on Jl. Jen. A. Yani within an easy walk of Pasar Mumbul; the two Segars, owned by the same family, are considered the best restaurants in the city.

SHOPPING

People are friendlier, laugh easier, and are more willing to bargain in this relatively untouristed city, but the craftsmanship doesn't compare with the variety and ingenuity of southern work. This artistic atrophy may be attributed to the long period of Dutch subjugation, as well as the dilution of culture due to heavy migration of non-Balinese peoples brought in to work the plantations and the docks of the north.
Take cash when you shop, as few places accept credit cards or traveler's checks. The souvenir shop Tresna, Jl. Gajah Mada 95, tel. (0362) 21816, sells antiques, kain tenun, and carvings. The city's retail shops, concentrated along Jl. Jen. A. Yani, are getting bigger, cleaner, with better selections. Self-service shops have arrived too, and in most you don't have to bargain. For almost any type of tropical fruit visit Buleleng Market just south of Jl. Semeru at the east end of Jl. Veteran. Each night until 2100 or so, depending on reliability of electricity, this market transforms into a dimly lit, lively pasar malam. Indra Jaya Bookstore, Jl. Diponegoro 30 (tel. 0362-22331) has a small collection of English-language books. One km east of Singaraja is the small pottery village of Banyuning which turns out unglazed urns, vases, roof tiles, and other pottery.

Textiles
A major weaving factory is Berdikari at Jl. Dewi Sartika 42 (open 0800-1900, tel. 0362-22217), specializing in the reproduction of ancient, finely detailed Buleleng silk ikat sold for sky-high prices. Perusahan Puri Nadiputri, on Jl. Veteran behind the Gedong Kirtya, sells distinctive handwoven silk and cotton sarung or kain; open 0800-1600. There are looms in practically every home in this kampung, set in the former puri compound. In 1960 the puri owed the bank so much money that it was forced to foreclose, and the bank sold the property to the government; you can still see the old walls of the compound. Another place to buy endek, ikat, colorfast sarung, and gold-threaded songket is Poh Bergong; from Singaraja head for Penarukan, then turn south toward Jinengdalem and Poh Bergong. Retailers buy here at wholesale prices.

SERVICES

Most government offices are located near the junction of Jl. Veteran, Jl. Ngurah Rai, and Jl. Pahlawan, about one km inland from the harbor. Road distances in north Bali are measured from this point, where the Winged Lion statue sits.
     The tourist information office, Jl. Veteran 23, tel. (0362) 61141, is near the Gedung Kirtya, about 100 meters back from the road; you'll see the sign from Jl. Veteran. From Banyuasri station, take a yellow bemo. The friendly staff may have a few pamphlets and maps of Buleleng and Singaraja. Open Mon.-Fri. 0700-1700, Saturday until 1230. Office chief Nyoman Suwela speaks excellent English. He is an unabashed promoter of Buleleng and infects all with his enthusiasm. The kantor polisi, tel. 110, is on Jl. Pramuka at the north end of Jl. Ngurah Rai, and the post office is at Jl. Gajah Mada 158 (where J1. Gajah Mada intersects with the eastern end of J1. Jen. A. Yani). Poste restante address, Kantor Pos, Poste Restante, Jl. Gajah Mada 156, Singaraja 81113. Open Mon.-Sat. 0700-1700.
     At the official telephone office, called Wartel Kopegtel, where you can also receive and place faxes and make international telephone calls, is right next to the post office at Jl. Gajah Mada 154. Open 24 hours. Singaraja's telephone code is 0362. Change money at Bank Central Asia, tel. (0362) 23761, on the south side of Jl. Jen. A Yani (on the right if approaching from Banyuasri Terminal). Here you can get cash from Visa or MasterCard for a Rp5000 charge. Open Mon.-Fri. 0800-1400, Saturday 0800-1130. Also check rates at BDN, Jl. Jen. A. Yani, tel. (0362) 41344; Bank Bumi Daya, Jl. Erlangga 14, tel. (0362) 41245, open Mon.-Fri. 0800-1500, Saturday 0800-1130; and BRI, Jl. Ngurah Rai 14.
     Nitour Tour & Travel, Jl. Jen. A. Yani 59, tel. (0362) 22691, is Singaraja's main agent for Garuda, Merpati, and Bouraq. Open Mon.-Sat. 0800-1400. Note that this agent cannot reliably confirm bookings on flights out of Bali; contact directly the main Garuda office in Sanur for confirmation by telephoning (0361) 288243.
     Doctor Kwari Darmawan, tel. (0362) 21721, across the street from the Nitour Office, has a good reputation; open 0630-1900. Rumah Sakit Umum, on Jl. Njurah Rai (tel. 0362-22046), offers well-equipped medical facilities. For more serious injuries or illnesses, go to Kertha Usada Hospital, a private hospital at Jl. Jen. A. Yani 108, tel. (0362) 41396; also has a dentist. A well-stocked pharmacy is Sumber Waras; right past the bridge on the left if coming into town from the east. Wijaya Kusuma Apotik, Jl. Ngurah Rai 23, tel. (0362) 22890, is a 24-hour pharmacy. Several other pharmacies are located on J1. Diponegoro.

TRANSPORTATION

Getting There
Board a minibus from Kintamani (Rp2000) or Denpasar (Rp3000) to Singaraja via Bedugul. Go through a hair-raising mountain pass, descend from a point 1,200 meters above sea level, and there it is. Another route is via Kintamani in the mountains through Kubutambahan on the north coast. Singaraja is also on the shuttle bus route. If traveling to Lovina from Karangasem, you arrive first at Penarukan Terminal then take a bemo into Singaraja or across town to Banyuasri Terminal, then another to Lovina.

Getting Around
Bemo constantly circulate between Terminal Banyuasri, Pasar Anyar, and Terminal Penarukan. The official "anywhere in the city" price is Rp500. Bemo from Banyuasri to Sangket are yellow, Sangket to Banyuasri red, Penarukan to Sangket blue, Penarukan to Banyuasri green or brown. Bemo are scarce after 1800. Dokar will also take you anywhere in town for Rp500-1000 (negotiate price before climbing in) emanating from Pasar Anyar, the night market.

Getting Away
Singaraja's Terminal Banyuasri is on Jl. Jen. A. Yani in the west side of town, serving such western destinations as Lovina (Rp500), Seririt (Rp1750), Gilimanuk (Rp2500), as well as Java. To reach Labuhan Lalang (for Pulau Menjangan) or Negara, catch an oplet to Gilimanuk, then take the main highway to Denpasar. Minibuses leave Banyuasri for Denpasar via Pupuan, a mind-blowing trip.
     The quickest way to reach Denpasar is from the bus station, Terminal Sangket (also called Sukasada) at the south end of Singaraja. From here minibuses for Denpasar via Bedugul leave about every 30 minutes from early morning to around 1800; a two-hour trip. Denpasar-bound minibuses can even be found after 1800, but they'll charge Rp3500 instead of the usual Rp3000. Buses leave here also for Bedugul/Lake Bratan (Rp1500) and Gigit Waterfall (Rp1000).
     The terminal Penarukan, tel. (0362) 61334, is on Jl. Supratman three km east of Singaraja, serving such eastern destinations as Amlapura and Kintamani. Penarukan Station offers a proper covered waiting area, and swarms with Isuzu vans and colts. Catch a ride to Tejakula, Rp1000; Sanih Beach, Rp1000; Amlapura, Rp3000; Padangbai, Rp4000; Kintamani, Rp3000 (infrequent after 1200, so get an early start); Klungkung via Penelokan, Rp3000; Batubulan, Rp3000.
     By motorcycle or car, it takes about 2.5 to three hours to reach Amlapura. Direct buses travel to Surabaya (Rp20,000) from either Singaraja or Lovina; if you're in a hurry to get to Java, you can hop the first thing going to Gilimanuk, where you can connect with long-distance buses for destinations including Yogyakarta or Jakarta. Check out the long-distance night bus companies Cakrawala, Jl. Surapati 124, tel. (0362) 41791 or 21925, and Puspasari, tel. (0362) 41698. Ticket offices (loket) are found around the Taman Lila complex on Jl. Jen. A. Yani. Lovena, near Banyuasri Station, sells big malam tickets to Surabaya (Rp20,000) and Yogyakarta (Rp40,000). Also catch shuttle buses to Denpasar, Kintamani, Ubud, and Kuta (Rp12,500) which depart from Perama Tourist Service, tel. (0362) 21161, just before the bridge to Lovina.

SOUTH OF SINGARAJA

Beratan and Vicinity
Take a bemo from Banyuasri Station (Rp500) to the kampung of Beratan, where silver and goldsmiths painstakingly fashion temple accoutrements; platters, vases, brooches in the shape of frogs, geckos, and seagulls (Rp9000-12,000), identity bracelets (Rp35,000), and rings at a fraction of Celuk's cost. In the nearby village of Jinang Dalem Balinese buy ikat and gold- and silver-inlaid songket cloth used in ceremonial dress (Rp150,000). Nagasepaha village, about five km south of Singaraja, is known for unique wayang kaca, used as coverings for offerings.
At Panji, 10 km south, the Bhuwana Kerta Monument honors heroes of the Indonesian struggle against the Dutch. In the 16th century, Raja Panji Sakti, founder of the kingdom of Buleleng, was born in this village. Nearby is a cave once home to raksasa. The megoak goakas is unique to Panji region. These twisting mountain roads, overlooking steep banana canyon plantations, will refresh you after the steaming heat of the lowlands.

Gitgit
Eleven kilometers south of Singaraja, off the dramatic road to Bedugul, is Bali's most spectacular waterfall, easily accessible at the end of a 500 meter walk past numerous pushy textile and souvenir sellers and peaceful rice fields. Pull into the parking lot, cross the street, then pay a small donation, Rp550. Enter a narrow concrete path between a cement building on the left and compound on the right. Open daily 0800-1730.
A fascinating walk for botanists, wind through coffee trees, timber-sized bamboos, and a riot of temperate zone "house plants"—King Kongs compared to the dracena and philodendron of the West. The path levels out among irrigated rice fields and at the falls are a restaurant, warung makan, souvenir shops, and toilets. Cool off with a swim in the lagoonlike pool at the foot of the powerful, mist-shrouded, free-fall 45-meter falls. Even in the dry season the water volume is stupendous. A beautiful little pavilion with benches offers a great place to rest. From here, take the rocky path down to the river's edge.
You could do a lot worse than the Giggit Hotel & Restaurant opposite the path to the air terjun; clean rooms Rp25,000 s, Rp35,000 d, deluxe rooms Rp45,000 s, Rp55,000 d. Tariff includes Indonesian, European, or continental breakfast. Almost always empty. Take in the sweeping panorama over the north coast and the Bali Sea. Meals also available in Mini Restaurant across the street.

DANAU TAMBLINGAN AND VICINITY

A trip to Danau Buyan and smaller Danau Tamblingan has the feel of a mini-archaeological expediton. Both are contained within one vast caldera; a rugged area lying between 500 and 1,500 meters above sea level. Because of the scarcity of public transport, the trip is best accomplished with a chartered vehicle or motorcycle.
There are two approaches. West of Singaraja, turn south at Seririt and follow the asphalt road to Munduk, which then runs east along the tranquil northern shores of Danau Tamblingan and Danau Buyan. For an easier approach, head south on the main highway out of Singaraja. About eight km before Bedugul, bear right and ride along a ridge for five km through the village of Palu'an. Just before entering Munduk, turn left and bump along a dirt road for 3.5 km down to Lake Tamblingan. Ask for directions periodically, and pause to smell the fields of hydrangeas and coffee plants and hear the sounds of an almost primeval upland rainforest.
When you reach the lake, turn right just before the house and travel one kilometer on a road full of butterflies and morning glories. At the house ask for Komang, who can lead you. The road is drivable, but at the end you'll have to park and walk 500 meters down a wide trail to the archaeological site. Look for the old lichen-covered grindstones under a forked cempaka tree. The stones themselves are not such a big deal, but the trip there is an adventure, the serene lake is surrounded by beautiful peaks, and there are no ticket takers or tourists.

Munduk
At 800 meters above sea level, this hilly town in Bali's central mountains offers a delightfully fresh climate, lying amid the great natural beauty of coffee, cocao, clove, vanilla, and tobacco gardens. Munduk is the largest of a series of mountain villages that includes Gobleng, Gesing, and Umejero. To reach Munduk from isolated Danau Tamblingan, go back to the main road and take a left, then travel 3.5 km. On the way, you'll pass a waterfall 500 meters from the road. Munduk is approximately 30 km from Lovina.
     Munduk is blessed with a number of safe, comfortable accommodations in a unique setting. Puri Lumbung Cottage ("Rice Storage Barn Palace") has five traditional raised cottages made completely of thatch, matting, and wood, nicely furnished, in immaculate condition. Located on the side of a mountain, the cottage affords magnificent views of rice terraces and cengke plantations. Each bungalow sleeps two and has its own water, electricity, and mandi.
     One of the first environment-friendly and community development-oriented accommodations on the island, Puri Lumbung is part of a Balinese project to involve tourists in the everyday lives of Balinese natives. The hotel also serves as a training facility for students and locals in the tourism industry who are seeking to stop the migration of local youths attracted by jobs in the south of the island. The staff are incredibly hospitable.
     In the hotel restaurant, Warung Kopi, partake of traditional home-cooked meals. Ask the kitchen to cook only Indonesian/Balinese food. The ares ayam (Balinese soup with boiled banana stem and chicken) for Rp2250 gets high marks, but the cap cay is too Westernized and rather bland. Intriguing Balinese desserts. After, relax with a cup of fresh-brewed coffee in a high pavilion with a beautiful view.
     Too bad the private bungalows are so expensive. Peak season rates (15 Dec.-15 Jan.) are Rp80,000 s, Rp90,000 d; off-season rates Rp70,000 s, Rp80,000 d. Tariff includes government tax, service, and traditional Balinese breakfast. Guests who stay four nights receive a fifth night free. Transport to Munduk arranged once your reservations are placed with BPLP Nusa Dua, Box 2, Nusa Dua, tel. (0361) 437071 or 772078. The management of Puri Lumbung can also arrange for rooms in simple, less expensive, but attractive homestays in the area—Meme Surung, Mekel Ragi, and Guru Ratna.
     This mountainous region is one of the few truly undiscovered regions of Bali. From Munduk walk 30 minutes to one of the highest waterfalls on Bali. Or try bicycle touring or horseback riding; hike to Gunung Lesong (four hours roundtrip) canoe or fish on Danau Tamblingan, learn to paint or handcraft bamboo bungbung; fly a kite; play megangsing (a village game using wooden tops); watch villagers process sugar palm and coconut oil; study white magic under a balian; cook in a village kitchen. No extravagant, tourist oriented dances; local events may include bloodless cockfights and cow races in rice paddies.