BANGLI AND VICINITY

A friendly, scenic town in the cool, sloping, rich farmlands of central Bali, Bangli is an hour's drive (40 km) northeast of Denpasar. Bangli dates back to A.D. 1204; a document tells of a sacrifice of a black ox and of a feast held in that year at its great state temple, Pura Kehen. An offshoot of the early Gelgel dynasty, the ancient kingdom of Bangli became Bali's most powerful upland court in the second half of the 19th century, largely as a reaction to the Dutch presence in Buleleng. Bangli's prominence, however, never eclipsed the grandeur of the lowland courts, and its influence was not deeply felt in island politics.      Bangli today is perhaps the quietest and most easygoing of all the regency capitals. Dominated by one-story buildings, the town is spread out for some distance along the highway. Neat and trim concrete administration buildings and houses are surrounded by gardens and near-empty streets; no souvenir shops, tourist restaurants, or nightlife. You often have the whole town to yourself.
     Travelers use Bangli as a transit stop halfway between Denpasar and Penelokan—between the mountains and the shore—spending several days here taking in Pura Kehen and the town's surroundings. Lying on the slopes of Gunung Batur, Bangli has one of the most temperate climates on Bali. When skies are clear, the town offers superb views of the still-active volcano.
     To other Balinese the town has a certain stigma because of its dubious distinction as the site of one of Bali's only two mental hospitals. Established by the Dutch, this was the first facility of its kind on the island. The town is still the subject of fierce barbs, and the Balinese look at you askance when you say you're going to Bangli. Poor mental health is not the problem here that it is in the West, as the island's unending rituals and dramas tend to release pent-up emotions legally and safely.

SIGHTS

Eight royal puri were once situated around the main crossroads of town, but now only Puri Denpasar (the present Artha Sastra Inn) is open to the public. This was the original palace of Bangli's last raja and is now occupied by the raja's descendants. Note the sculptures of lions and bodhisattvas inspired by early photographs of Borobudur, and the remarkable painted mural and frieze in the bale loji depicting Chinese life in Bangli during the last century—many shops in the town market are still Chinese-owned. The mural is in bad shape but you can still make out detail. Also worth seeing is the 100-year-old bale kulkul, about a five-minute walk. This well-preserved three-story pagoda-like structure with coconut tree columns once functioned as an alarm/signal tower to warn or call for an assembly. From the top tower hang two kulkul, one male and one female.

Pura Kehen
Thousands visit this lovely old terraced temple, 1.5 km northeast of the town center—the largest and most sacred temple in the regency. To get there, follow the road to Penelokan, then turn right at the T-junction and walk 300 meters. Approaching it through surrounding woodland and coconut groves, Pura Kehen has the appearance of a full-scale wayang performance in the middle of a breathtaking rice paddy. Brave the usual crush of vendors, some very aggressive (children accost tourists with flowers, asking for money).
     One of the finest and most dramatic temples of its kind, Pura Kehen was founded in the early 11th century by Sri Brahma Kemuti Ketu as a state temple. Kehen is derived from the word kuren, meaning "household" or "hearth"; the temple is under the protection of Brahma, the Lord of Fire. Below the first long flight of steps is Pura Penyimpenan ("Temple of Safekeeping"), an old temple containing an ancient collection of historical lontar and inscribed prastasis. Here, a 9th century bronze plate alludes in Sanskrit to a dedication ceremony held here in honor of Hyang Api (Brahma), which even predates the official founding of the temple in 1206.
     Pura Kehen's large layout, as well as the temple's high platforms and megalithic stone construction, betrays a link with the animistic terraced mountain sanctuaries dating from the earliest periods of Balinese history. Like Besakih, Pura Kehen was built on eight terraces on the southern slope of the hill. Each of the three main terraces is connected to the one above by a flight of stairs. The first five terraces make up the outer courtyards (jabaan), the sixth and seventh are middle courtyards (jaba tengah), while the eighth is the sacred inner courtyard (jeroan). Steep stairs lead to Pura Kehen's splendid gateway, the pamedal agung, known as "the great exit." Above it are the splayed hands and hideous face of a kala-makara demon who prevents malevolent spirits from entering the sacred grounds. Wayang kulit-like stone statues on pedestals depicting characters from the Ramayana line both sides of the 38 steps leading up to the main entrance. The forecourt and middle courtyard are shaded by a venerable old waringin tree with a kulkul in its branches. The courtyard's walls are inlaid with chipped Chinese porcelain plates, the balustrades of the steps decorated with ornamental carvings.
     The inner sanctuary contains a shrine of 11 tapering meru roofs, resting places for the visiting mountain gods. The 11-tier meru, dedicated to Siwa, is the highest honor that can be offered. In the northeastern corner of this courtyard is a very unusual padmasana, a three-throned shrine of the holy Hindu triad. Go around the back and check out the superb carvings. Ornamentation on the highest temple is so overdone and uncontrolled it's rare even for Bali—a stirring testament to the virtuosity of Bangli's stonecarvers.

EVENTS

During the odalan temple festival, beginning in the afternoon, high offerings are carried up the long stairway to Bangli's Pura Kehen. At night, this temple anniversary is also celebrated with the sacred rejang dance. Even bigger than the state temple's odalan is Bangli's ngusaba ceremony. Unusual dance forms practiced in the Bangli area include various archaic forms of baris typical of Bali's mountain regions: baris presi (eight men with leather shields), baris dadap (men with shields made of dadap wood), and baris jojor (eight men in line with spears).
Besides temple festival days, Bangli's main event is market day, when you'll see products like sweet potatoes, peanuts, and spices not found in the south. The pasar is south of the Artha Sastra Inn. Dances and wayang kulit are sometimes staged in the town's bale banjar every hari raya, but not with the lavishness or regularity of Gianyar. A resident dalang, Dewa Made Rai Mesi, lives just 700 meters from the Artha Sastra Inn.
The Sasana Budaya Art Center, one of the largest cultural complexes on Bali, is about two km northwest of the town center, just around the corner from Pura Kehen. Here you can see gamelan and theater performances (kecak, wayang forms), baris dances, and art exhibits. Obtain a schedule of events from the local tourist office (see below). Tourist dances—the fire dance, kecak, and ballet—are performed nearly every day in Bona, 13 km southwest of Bangli (Rp5000). Buy tickets 15 minutes before show time at 1900.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD

The Artha Sastra Inn, Jl. Merdeka 5, tel. (0366) 91179, an original raja's palace, has seen better days. Still, the potted plants and palace court architecture gives this place a unique feel. You can sleep in the bed of the last king of Bangli and participate in the ritual life of a triwangsa family. The Inn is ideally located in the center of Bangli near the bus station—traffic noise from this busy intersection can be bothersome. Coming into town from Denpasar, the palace complex is on the right. The inn is managed by an obviously overworked adolescent boy. Funky, decaying rooms with kamar mandi outside are Rp8000 s, Rp15,000 d. Slightly less run-down are the five larger rooms in the interior of the puri, with inside mandi costing Rp15,000 s, Rp20,000 d. These are adapted from traditional Balinese bale and feature ancient carved doors and antique furniture. Prices include breakfast of banana or pineapple pancakes. Inexpensive menu, but the food is not that great.
     The newer Bangli Hotel, Jl. Rambutan 1, tel./fax (0366) 91419, offers 15 rooms with attached bathrooms at Rp25,000 per. Clean and acceptable rooms, fresh mountain air, breakfast, small restaurant, tax and service not included. Good value. Doctor available. Ask for the traditional healing massage. Reservations direct or to Box 56, Nusa Dua 80361, Bali.
     Inexpensive, spartan rooms are also available in two homestays: Jaya Giri at J1. Sriwijaya 6 nearly opposite Pura Kehen, and Catur Aduyana on the other side of town adjacent to the soccer field (J1. Lettulil 2, tel. 0366-91244).
     The pasar malam to the east of the bus station serves cheap, delicious meals; cap cay goreng with rice for Rp1500, ayam goreng with vegetables for Rp4000. Or dine at several warung makanan kecil around the bus station; get there early as they stay open no later than 2100.

SERVICES AND TRANSPORTATION

Services
You'll find many shops in the local market south of the Artha Sastra Inn where you can buy the necessities of life. Though it takes up a whole block, it's not much of a market. The tourist office is at Jl. Brigjen. Ngurah Rai 24 (open Mon.-Fri. 0730-1700, tel. 0366-91537) but is of minimal use—just a pamphlet or two, with lackluster service. Change cash but not traveler's checks at Bank Pembangunan Daerah (open 0730-1400) by the Trimurti statue, or use a bank in Gianyar, 13 km and Rp500 by bemo to the southwest. There's a pay telephone in front of the Artha Sastra Inn, or go to the 24-hour Wartel just north of the tourist office.

Getting There and Away
Blue public bemo from Denpasar's Terminal Kereneng cost Rp1000 (40 km). From the town of Gianyar bemo cost Rp500 (13 km); from Kintamani Rp700. If coming from Klungkung (19 km, Rp500), you may have to change bemo in Peteluan or simply board a Singaraja-bound bemo and get off in Bangli. Magnificent views on the way up.
     From the bemo/bus station opposite the Artha Sastra Inn in Bangli, get rides to Gianyar (13 km, Rp500), Penelokan, (26 km north, Rp600), Kintamani (33 km, Rp700), Tampaksiring (22 km), and Denpasar's Batubulan Station (40 km, Rp1000).
     Bangli lies on the border between central and eastern Bali and it's easy to reach Besakih (21 km) from here on a lovely meandering surfaced road which runs by impressive rice terraces and along fast, clear, cold rivers at the bottom of deep ravines. The road emerges at Bangbang on the main Klungkung-Besakih road; from Bangbang turn south two km to enjoy the majestic vantage point from 300-seat Bukit Jambul Garden Restaurant. Sample a selection of Indonesian, European, and Chinese dishes while gazing out at the clove plantations stretched before you.
     From Bukit Jambul, head north to Besakih via Rendang (12 km). Bemo run from Bangli direct to Rendang for Rp500, or take a bemo to Bangbang for Rp400 and walk a little. From Rendang, you can head east to Selat, then turn south on the postcard-scenic road to Klungkung via Iseh and Sideman. About an eight-hour trip via motorbike; too many changes if you take public transport.

VICINITY OF BANGLI

For starters, try a nice walk through sawah to the east, bringing you to Pura Dalem Cungkub. Dewa at the Artha Sastra Inn takes guests to this temple. An even bigger temple lies to the west—Pura Delem Purwa, in an area that looks like the surroundings of Ubud.

South of Bangli
One-half km south of Bangli toward Gianyar is Pura Dalem Pengungekan, a temple of the dead. Detailed outside panels show scene after vivid scene of unimaginable and grotesque horrors heaped upon pleading evildoers—impaled by arrows, boiled alive, devoured by demons, strung up from trees, roasted over flames. The central shrine, completed in 1995, depicts the stories of Ganesha, Siwa, Uma, and Raksasa. Bukit Jati is a scenic hill south of Bangli with 360-degree views; take a bemo first to Guliang, then walk 500 meters to the top, the site of several temples. Not generally known to tourists, Pura Tirta Harum ("Temple of the Fragrant Spring") is a royal temple six km south of Bangli, about an hour's walk up a long uphill path. It's believed the ancestor of the present-day dynasty of Bangli was born in a small thatched-roof building here. Enter through the candi bentar. Pura Tirta Harum derived its name from a nearby holy spring. An important odalan takes place here, attended by all castes.
In Bunutin, seven km south of Bangli, turn east off the main road. Overlooking a large lake, red-bricked Pura Langgar is designed along Islamic lines with a two-tiered roof, four central pillars, and four gateways in the direction of the four winds. The legend goes that, during the 17th century, a local Hindu prince fell gravely ill. Seeking a cure, a dukun was consulted; he advised the family to build a temple in honor of an Islamic ancestor of the prince, I Dewa Mas Wili, who joined the Gelgel court after immigrating from East Java's Blambangan peninsula. In accordance with the dukun's wishes, a beautiful mosque-like temple was built on the shore of a lake graced with palm trees and water-lilies. Today, both Muslims and Hindus worship at Pura Langgar and descendants of the prince's family still abstain from eating pork in deference to their ancestor. Three km farther south of Bunutin is the pura dalem at Sidan, very possibly the most grotesque temple of the dead on Bali, literally covered in gruesome carvings depicting the consequences of an evil life.

West of Bangli
Catch a bemo in front of the hospital toward Tampaksiring. After about one km, on the south side of the main road, is the lake-fed spring of Tirta Empul, located at the bottom of a big ravine. Take the long flight of steps down to the springs. About two km farther west, after the school, you'll see the signpost and the track to the right to Bukit Demulih ("Hill of No Return"). If you continue straight up the wooded ridge, you'll reach Penelokan. Perched on top of Bukit Demulih is the small temple of Penataran Kentel Gumi. From the hilltop, you can see the Balinese Pyrenees, a range of nine mountains named after the nipple-like trompong percussion plates in the gamelan orchestra.
Also visible is Pura Kehen, under a giant banyan tree north of Bangli; the whole Bukit Peninsula to the south; and the ugly box of the Bali Beach Hotel along the east coast at Sanur. Apuan is a five-km walk south of Bukit Demulih, or take a bemo (Rp500) from Bangli. The house of the kepala desa here, with its gold-leaf decoration, is as beautiful as a king's palace.
Sulahan village, six km west, is known for its basketry and wonderful old gong gde, given to the village by the prince of the ranking court of Bangli. This venerable orchestra, which most likely dates from the 18th century and today is known as Gong Gde Sekar Sandat, once belonged to the kingdom of Klungkung. When the Dutch defeated that court in the 1908 puputan, they repaid the loyalty of the raja of Bangli by presenting him with this gamelan. It was first cast in an amalgam of gold and bronze, which made it very durable. Before the advent of the gong kebyar, this powerful class of gamelan, with its deep melancholy tolling and unusual melody, was once widespread on Bali. It is rarely heard today.

North of Bangli
The largest bamboo forest on Bali is in Kubu, four km north of Bangli on the road to Penglipuran. The sound of the wind blowing through the bamboo strikes some as eerie, but it can be quite relaxing when you grow used to it. The locals believe the bamboo took root from bamboo sticks used in the making of camp shelters and pikulan abandoned by the all-conquering army of Panji Sakti in the early 17th century. The most famous aboriginal village in the regency is Trunyan on the northeast shore of Lake Batur; few people know about Kajubii, eight km north of Bangli. Like most archaic Bali Aga villages, Kajubii is surrounded by a protective wall. Here the children are considered more important than the old people; looked upon as servants of God.
Eleven km north of Bangli, in Kubu District, is Penglipuran, a much-ballyhooed "undiscovered" village of 164 families which looks like a well-groomed stage set from pre-Javano-Hindu Bali—neat as a pin and set against a backdrop of great natural beauty. Though it's not really "undiscovered" (note the parking lot for tour buses), a visit nevertheless provides a valuable glimpse into Bali's past. Every highland village in Bali once had this unique street plan. The original outer walls of each compound form two unbroken walls on either side of the long street, sloping gradually north to south. A pura penataran and a pura dalem lie at the north end. Each compound has retained the old-style domestic gateway. If you're invited into a household, give the oldest woman at least Rp1000. Sit in the town warung and chat with the people, the best thing about visiting Penglipuran.