LEGIAN

This once dusty, poor seaside village is now just an extension of Kuta, though with slightly more chic energy. Legian offers good music, outstanding food, both luxury and budget hotels, sophisticated fashion boutiques, banks, souvenir markets, and arja, barong, kecak, and Ramayana performances at least every other day. It even has its own bungee jump company now, Adrenalin, which offers a 50-meter human slingshot for US$50; book at tel. (0361) 757841. From Denpasar, Legian is Rp600 by bemo, or a two-km walk from Kuta Beach on a congested sidewalk beside a busy road running south. It's more pleasant to walk via the beach, then cut in at Jl. Padma.

ACCOMMODATIONS

No lack of accommodations in and around Legian. The northern section features unique, relaxed places surrounded by spacious gardens and coconut palms, with only the sound of birds, insects, and geckos. Nowhere, however, will you escape the 15.5% tax and service charge.

Budget
The inexpensive Janji Inn Banjar Legian Kelod, tel. (0361) 752389, in a quiet coconut grove off Gang Uluwatu, offers eight large, well-appointed rooms with mandi for Rp10,000 s, Rp15,000 d. Good security, free breakfast, tea all day, nice people. A welcome oasis not far from the madding crowd. Wisata Beach Inn (tel. 0361-752216), a short walk from the beach behind Glory's Restaurant, has very nice, quiet, two-room bungalows in a garden setting for only Rp10,000 s, just Rp9000 per day if you stay a week. Cheap, comfortable Surya Dewata Beach Cottages (tel. 0361-753776) is a small complex of little bungalows with 24-hour security down a small alleyway off Jl. Padma Utara; the path is very dark at night. A kitchen is available for preparing meals. For something closer to the beach, try the 10-room Sri Beach Inn (tel. 0361-755897), Rp8000 s, Rp12,000 d, light breakfast included. Set in the middle of a beautiful and well-maintained orchid garden, the place is run by Wayan Tampa, who speaks better than average English and employs tireless houseboys.
     On Jl. Padma is 90-room Legian Village Hotel (tel. 0361-751182 or 752455, fax 752455) with nicely appointed air-conditioned rooms, hot water, laundry service, pool, restaurant, and bar for only Rp30,000-55,000 s, Rp35,000-60,000 d, including continental Breakfast but not tax and service. A supplement is charged in the high season. Credit cards accepted. Only a couple blocks from the beach (five minutes on foot).
     Considerably upgraded Oka Melati Hotel, on Jl. Padma, tel. (0361) 755894, has patio and upstairs rooms with balconies, each with wrought iron table and chairs. Rooms are simply but pleasantly furnished and include mandi. Features include an attractive courtyard with palms, a well-staffed front desk with fax, birdcages, and a lovely roof garden from which to view the sun's rising and setting. They'll keep your passport and valuables in a locked compartment. Price varies on length of stay and one's negotiating abilities. Mr. Oka and Mr. Ida, the managers, are very helpful. Directly across the street is another hotel with pool that you may use. Mr. Oka owns a small clothing store cum bookstore up the street.
     Next door and on the same windy street as the Kuta Palace Hotel, the relaxing and attractive Orchid Garden Cottages (Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna 525, Box 3379, Legian Kaja Kuta, tel. 0361-751802, fax 752852) has 23 rooms on a 900-sq-m property. Low season rates, all subject to 15% tax and service, are Rp20,000 for room with fan, Rp40,000 for air-conditioned room. Hot water, attached bathrooms, but no breakfast. Rates in the high season go up by about Rp20,000. Clean rooms, beautiful garden, good atmosphere. Ayub, Putu, and their three daughters, plus a staff of 14 from all over Indonesia, really look after you. They all call you by name and bring you hot tea or water all day long. The hotel also has a small store, offers film processing, souvenirs, laundry, and tour service. The restaurant has a very complete menu and reasonable prices for breakfast (continental Rp4000, Indonesian Rp4500, American Rp5000) and above-average dinners. But one of the best things about the Orchid Garden, besides the people, is what has developed around it. Swim in the Rum Jungle or Kuta Palace nearby, one of the best Mexican restaurants is around the corner, plus lots of other restaurants and services within easy reach. To reach the Orchid Garden, just tell the taxi driver to take you to the Kuta Palace Hotel in north Legian.

Moderate
An old Legian fixture is A.A. Ngurah Alit's Three Brothers Bungalows (tel. 0361-751566, fax 756082), with a small but very nice swimming pool. Still a comfortable place to stay in spite of the sometimes lackadaisical service. Prices run Rp30,000-50,000 s or d, for bungalows with fans, tiled floors, ornate wooden furniture, and double louvered doors opening onto a tiled veranda. Meals not included. Air-conditioned rooms are Rp50,000-60,000. The garden mandi is big, modern, roofless, completely tiled, and filled with plants. No hot water in the cheaper rooms. More expensive big, round, two-level, air-conditioned bungalows are luxurious with garden baths and beautifully carved wooden furniture, some on upper floors open to the outdoors. These go for an incredibly cheap Rp60,000. Three Brothers has a great location, and the huge grounds are peaceful and well kept. The restaurant on the premises is a tranquil hangout.
     Puri Wisata Bungalows, on Jl. Legian Kaja three blocks south of Jl. Melasti (Box 1060, Denpasar, tel. 0361-751222), has 22 rooms. Rp25,000 s or d for economy class with fans, fridge, and private bath; Rp50,000 s or d for standard class with a/c, hot water, fridge, TV, IDD; and Rp80,000 s, Rp100,000 d for deluxe class with a/c, hot water, fridge, IDD, TV, and parabola. All rates include breakfast, tax, and service. Rooms are clean and furnished with rattan furniture. Staff of 30 takes good care of you. Free tea or coffee, small restaurant with good prices, laundry, parking, pool, souvenir shop, free airport transfers. Fifteen-minute walk to the beach. Cars and minivans available for rent, and tours around the island can be arranged.
     Clean and well-managed Maharta Beach Hotel on Jl. Padma Utara is a beautiful small hotel with two classes of a/c rooms, Rp125,000 and Rp175,000. Longitudinally oriented, the property stretches from a lane off Jl. Padma all the way to the sea. Nice lawn, swimming pool with sunken bar, and a beach bar. They also have a very good restuarant with a charming atmosphere that not many people know about.
     Friendly Mabisa Beach Side Hotel (Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna, Legian Kaja, Box 2052, Kuta 80361, tel./fax 0361-754140) is Rp50,000 s, Rp60,000 d, Rp120,000 for a suite. Add 15.5% for tax and service. During the low season, the Mabisa offers a 50% discount. IDD phones in room, parking, tropical garden, big pool in middle of hotel, sunken bar, restaurant, vehicle rentals. Quiet location away from pollution and taffic, yet close to shopping and night entertainment.
     Near the beach, the Bruna Beach Hotel (tel. 0361-751565 or 753201) has ordinary but clean rooms for as low as Rp30,000 s, Rp50,000 d, and Rp160,000 s or d for a/c bungalows. Prices vary depending on whether you have fan or a/c, hot or cold water. Deluxe family rooms run Rp172,500. Rates don't include breakfast (Rp10,000) or tax and service. Pool, beachside restaurant and bar, volleyball games on the beach, TV room. Bruna sells bus tickets, confirms air tickets, rents cars, jeeps, motorbikes, and surfboards, and offers deep-sea fishing and island cruises. Popular with Germans.
     Rama Garden Cottages, on Jl. Padma (Box 334, Denpasar, tel. 0361-751971, fax 755909), 200 meters from the beach, has clean, comfortable rooms with fridge and all the modern conveniences in Bali-style cottages for Rp80,000 s, Rp120,000 d. Tariff includes American breakfast, tax, and service. Pool, restaurant, bar. Right in the middle of Legian, this hotel is close to the action with a wide choice of restaurants, pubs, discos, shops, and bemo nearby.

Expensive
Elegant Legian Beach Hotel (Box 308, Denpasar, tel. 0361-751711, fax 752651) is at the end of Jl. Melasti near Legian's center. With 140 rooms spread out over enormous grounds, its facilities are luxurious: bar, restaurant, Olympic-size pool, free airport transfers. Wide choice of rooms. Those with fan in three-storied hotel block go for Rp149,500, standard a/c beachside bungalows are Rp172,500 s, superior bungalows are Rp207,000 (doubles are Rp23,000 more), plus 21% tax and service.
     Near the beach on Jl. Padma, the 96-room Bali Mandira Cottages (Box 1003, Denpasar, tel. 0361-751381, fax 752377) charges Rp172,500 s, Rp195,500 d (plus 20% tax and service) with a/c, hot water, IDD, sound system, lush courtyard gardens, pool, tennis and squash courts, bar, restaurant, and nice view of the ocean. Friendly service.
     In northern Legian with plenty of shade, Kuta Palace Hotel, Jl. Pura Bagus Teruna (Box 244, Denpasar, tel. 0361-751433), has 281 rooms for Rp180,000 s, Rp200,000-300,000 d. Open-air theater, lots of sports and entertainment, and a marked-off beach.
     Modernly designed and furnished, tropical-style Bali Coconut Hotel (Jl. Padma Utara, tel. 0361-754121, fax 754121) has a/c, telephone, fridge, satellite dish, video program, hot water, and snappy service. Restaurant and karaoke bar, coffee shop. Rates, subject to 15.5% tax and service, are Rp90,000 s, Rp100,000 d, with high-season supplement of Rp20,000 (20 Dec.-10 Jan.). It's only a short walk down a private alley to the beach.
     On Jl. Pantai Kuta is the small but special Kulkul Beach Resort (Box 3097, Denpasar 80030, tel. 0361-752520, fax 752519) with 18 thatch-roof bungalows comprising 50 rooms, some with open-air baths, for Rp290,000. Standard garden view rooms are Rp195,500, superior garden view rooms are Rp218,500. To all prices, add 21% tax and service. The Kulkul at first doesn't impress you with its grandeur, but its services are comparable to those offered in a three-star hotel (though it doesn't have a business center) and the staff and management are attentive. Designed by a Balinese architect, the Kulkul maintains a quaint, rustic feel that appeals to a younger clientele. On the premises is the popular Kaktus Biru mexican restaurant (terrific music though), a karaoke bar, a traditional beauty salon, and a tour and travel desk. Rehana will give you a tour of the hotel. One drawback is the Kulkul is next to the Baruna Night Club, which pulsates with raucous music until at least 2300 most nights of the week.
     The Kuta Jaya Cottage on Jl. Raya Pantai Kuta (tel. 0361-752308, fax 752309) is self-contained with a shopping arcade, photo center, doctor on call, drugstore, bank, travel agency (cars for rent), postal and dry-cleaning service, and an open-air stage for performances. It has 135 rooms for Rp195,500-218,500, a nice garden, clean interiors, and a peaceful atmosphere.

Long-Term
There are dozens of self-contained complexes with bungalows well-suited for long-term rental. They come with complete kitchen, private garden, hot water, cassette stereo, maid and laundry service, good security. Each unit sleeps four or more people, starting around Rp35,000 per day (not including tax) and heading way up for posher units. They can be a great deal for large groups. Bargain for an even better monthly rate.
     Homestays, rooms in out-of-the-way beachfront hotels, and private villa rentals are also available north of Legian in Seminyak, Petitinget, Berawa Beach, and Canggu. See "Private Villa Rentals" under "Accommodations" in the Introduction.

FOOD

To save money, shop at Loji II Supermarket (tel. 0361-751048) and cook yourself. For home-cooked meals Warung Murah, Jl. Legian (tel. 0361-752028), on the left about one-half km from Legian toward Seminyak, sells a classic Bali-style nasi campur with meat, egg, veggies, and sambal for around Rp2000. This once Balinese warung, now a full-fledged restaurant, closes around midnight.
     A Singapore-style foodmart, Matahari Legian Plaza, Jl. Legian just up from the Mastapa Garden Hotel toward Kuta on the left, shares a complex with the wildly popular McDonald's. A coven of poorly patronized restaurants, the plaza's a bomb even on Saturday night because they're generally too ritzy and pricey. The only popular eatery of the bunch is Warung Java, which also has the best prices.
     In Legian proper, medium-sized, upmarket Gosha Restaurant, Jl. Melasti (tel. 0361-751089), is one of the best restaurants in the area for seafood and European dishes. Offering a variety of food, the restaurant, constructed of bamboo with a thatch roof, is always crowded. Just as classy, in its own way, the restaurant at Bruna Beach Hotel overlooks the beach, turning out delicious Indonesian and Western dishes.
     Benny's Cafe I, Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna (Jl. Rum Jungle), Legian Kaja (down the on the left 100 meters before the bend in the road), is an above average breakfast place serving oatmeal bread, homemade cakes, and Aussie and Italian food. Benny Suhadi runs the restaurant, a neighborhood hotspot where you can sit in comfortable chairs, listen to electric harp, sample an original menu, and sip frothy cappucino while watching the panoply of humanity stream by.
     Bamboo Palace, also on Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna, is a small restaurant and bar with good Indonesian and Western food, friendly staff, and warm, cozy atmosphere. The Lido Restaurant and Pub (tel. 0361-755343) on Jl. Melasti specializes in Chinese and European food.
     Uncrowded Orchid Garden Cottages, Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna (tel. 0361-752852), has quite reasonable prices and a garrulous, homey atmosphere. They specialize in Chinese, Indonesian, and Balinese food and fish dishes with special sauces. One of the best desserts in Indonesia has to be their banana pancake heaped with fruit salad and topped with honey and yogurt (Rp6000). The restaurant entrance is covered in bougainvillea.
     The small garden courtyard in the back of Warung Kopi (Jl. Legian Tengah 427, tel. 0361-753602) is a fine place to relax and enjoy generally very good and nutritious food. A lavish buffet is set up at 1900 every Wednesday night featuring the best dishes of India including curries and condiments. Call for a reservation, especially for large groups during prime time. The "special" breakfast of fruit salad, juice, two eggs, whole-wheat toast, jam, and Bali coffee is particularly popular. Extensive variety of desserts: cakes, chocolate mousse, black rice pudding, the to-die-for choco fudge pie. Reasonable prices, clean, nice atmosphere, reputable, and close to central Legian. Closes at midnight.
     Also on Jl. Legian in Legian Kelod, halfway between Kuta and Legian, is award-winning Za's Bakery and Restaurant (Jl. Legian Kelod, tel. 0361-752973) known for its breakfast, brunch, seafood, and delightfully creative dishes. Try the flavorful fish soup with spicy tomato base and a thick slice of multi-grain bread. For breakfast, great juices, fruit, and divine yogurt, homemade jams, toasted muesli, and fantastic baked goods. Also the cheapest margaritas on Bali (Rp5500). Fast, friendly service. A nice, cool place to stop for lunch while shopping.
     Aroma's Cafe and Restaurant (Jl. Legian, tel. 0361-751003), a mostly vegetarian restaurant next to Za's, is above average, even exotic, though a bit expensive. Generous portions. They also have very good bread. The dining area is surrounded by a garden and fish pond.
     Goa 2001 Restaurant (tel. 0361-730592 or 731178), just beyond Legian toward Seminyak on the right, is a popular eatery with Indian dishes and a sit-down sushi bar, as well as Indonesian, Italian, and German food. A limited menu, but what's on it is good (the environment is more noteworthy than the food). Tasty pumpkin soup, passable sushi, but their gado-gado is like a warm vegetable stew with peanut sauce poured over it. Meals with drink average Rp12,000-15,000.
     Goa's isn't really popular as a dinner place but as a warmup spot before the discos open. Don't even bother going before 2300 when it starts to get packed with the Beautiful People lounging and drinking arak madu or exotic drinks from a three-page-long drink menu, while listening to a huge variety of superb music. You may even have to stand in line. A magnificent building with vaulted ceilings of ribbed bamboo and interlocking thatch, Goa's is elegant yet casual with a warm and inviting decor, nice sitting areas, always well-patronized, and the draught beer is always cold. A great spot to meet people—detractors call it a meat market—but it is indeniably one of Bali's best bars. Open from 1900 until about 0200.

Ethnic
A smashing success, Poco Loco (Jl. Padma Utara, across from Bali Niksoma, tel. 0361-756079) serves traditional, high-quality, and beautifully presented Mexican food. In a huge, posh, open-air building, with an upbeat atmosphere, they play cool, modern jazz on a great sound system. Tops on the menu are seafood combo fajitas, tostada with cabbage, enchilada, guacamole, burritos stuffed with seafood, salmon steaks. Don't miss the fantastic sangria, giant daiquiris, and awesome margaritas served up in their two bars. Made, one of God's smaller people, sells Cuervo Gold tequila shooters from his portable minibar. Great desserts too: "Very Muddy Mud Pie" and rich chocolate cake with homemade vanila ice cream. Punctual service, medium price range. Open for dinner from 1800 until about midnight.
     New and trendy Teras-La Terrazza, on the third floor high above Jl. Legian (just before Jl. Double Six), is one of south Bali's best new restaurants, with a wonderful selection of grilled food, homemade pastas with delicious sauces, and sublime desserts. Recommended is the Brazilian Churasco platter for two featuring spit-roasted pork, chicken, beef, very good homemade sausages, and a full complement of side dishes—not bad for Rp30,000. Sit on the huge outdoor rooftop terrace or at the long bar tended by experienced bartenders and drink in the full moon. Check out the late night menu at the bar for a light and entertaining snack. Service is excellent. Nice bathrooms. Open 1900-0200 nightly.
     The Bali Rock Cafe (tel. 0361-754466) in the combat zone on Jl. Melasti to the east of the Bali Intan Hotel puts on a "Big Bopper Burger Night" on Monday nights when you can eat as many hamburgers or veggie-burgers as you like from their big burger buffet. They also have "Homestay Roast Dinner Nights" on Sunday nights, "Pasta & Pizza Nights" on Wednesday nights, and Satay Bonanza Nights on Friday nights. Live music accompanies each free-for-all buffet.
     A real find is Pagoda Thai Bar and Restaurant, Gang Benasari 15, a delightful, small Thai restaurant. The owner/hostess, Mama Eti, ran the famous Coffee House in Bukittinggi. Just family members work here to keep prices down. Particularly good seafood. Also a complete breakfast menu. No MSG. Nice atmosphere, nice music, nice family. Another Thai restaurant, with a very romantic atmosphere, is Swasdee, Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna (tel. 0361-232841).
     The Swiss Restaurant (tel. 0361-751735), behind the Kuta Palace Hotel on Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna, is a Swiss oasis in the middle of Indonesia. Run by a Balinese woman and her Swiss husband, Jon Zurcher, who import wine from France, steak from New Zealand, and bratwurst and cheeses from Switzerland for the excellent fondue. Drop in on the Asia buffets every Saturday, "Bali Nights" every Thursday at 1930, plus daily rijstaffel. Also try the smoked fish, banana flambé, superb omelettes, champagne, wines, cocktails. Jon, who also serves as the official Swiss Consul, can be recognized by his pipe and bare feet (even when climbing volcanoes!). He personally leads treks to places you'd never go alone. Ask to see his photo albums.
     A traditional English self-service buffet brunch is presented every day between 1100-1300 at The Bounty (tel. 0361-754040) on Jl. Legian. It includes poached eggs, stewed tomatoes, mixed grill, croissants. In the shape of a rigged sailing ship, on the Bounty's upper deck restaurant, English dishes like steak and kidney pie are served. Or just have a drink in the Captain's Bar. Happy hours are 1800-2000 and 2200-2300.
     Near the Bounty is Mama's, Jl. Legian 354, tel. (0361) 751805, specializing in German food such as schweine braten mit rotkohl, fassbier, and gulasch-suppe. Just like in the old country. The Sari Rasa Restaurant in the Maharta Beach Hotel on Jl. Padma serves excellent Austrian-style food and famous desserts like apple strudel and Palatschinkenala Esterhazy cakes at moderate prices. No one seems to know about it, yet it's first class.
     The Topi Koki (tel./fax 0361-754243) on Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna opposite the Kuta Palace Hotel was Bali's first French restaurant (est. 1986). Authentic French cuisine, French TV by satellite, French video programs. Main dishes run around Rp8000-12,000, wine by the glass Rp5000. A dinner for two with drinks, appetizers, main course, dessert, and coffee will be around Rp60,000. Another French eatery is Le Bistro, Jl. Legian Kaja 2 (tel. 0361-730973), which specializes in Bouillabaisse escargots. This place is an offshoot of Jakarta's oldest French restaurant and the food c'est magnifique!
     At the Kurumaya in the Bali Padma Hotel at Jl. Padma 1 (tel. 0361-752111), in central Legian, you may savor teppan yaki, tempura, shabu-shabu, and other traditional Japanese cuisines in a Japanese setting—a feast for both eyes and palate. Served up by new Japanese chef Ken Namba who worked at three premier Japanese restaurants in Los Angeles. Open 1900-2300. Tanaya's Cafe, Jl. Raya Legian 131 (tel. 0361-754362), is a Japanese steak house specializing in seafood barbecue, teriyaki steak bowl, beef bowl, and fried chicken. Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Free transport in Kuta area.

Aussie Food
For international buffets, and Outback, American, Indonesian, or continental breakfasts, head for the Glory Bar and Restaurant on Jl. Legian (tel. 0361-751091, fax 753219). On Saturday nights Glory serves an excellent Indonesian/Chinese feast for Rp9500 (children half-price); also buffets Wednesday night. Free alcoholic drinks will served to buffet customers from 1900 to 2030. Or go to their Happy Harvey Hour, when popular cocktails are served by the jug. Plastic accepted. Open 0800-2400. Call Glory for bookings and for a free ride (Kuta area only).
     Yanies, on corner of Jl. Legian and Jl. Melasti (tel. 0361-751292), also bills itself as "No. 1 for real Australian food." Started by an Australian and his Balinese wife in 1983, the place is very popular with Australians. The beer is cold. Also a fun place for kids because they have a pair of parrots and owls, and sell Bali dolls. Traditional thatched roof, garden setting. Open 1100-0400.

ENTERTAINMENT

The jazz bar at the Poco Loco (Jl. Padma Utara, across from Bali Niksoma, tel. 0361-756079) is also a fun, airy place to drink and hang out. Open 1800-2300 (no lunch). The Pub at the Swiss Restaurant, Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna (tel. 0361-754719), near Kuta Palace Hotel, jumps until it closes at 0300 or 0400. European crowd. One of the cheapest places to drink beer and watch the street crowds is Loji II open-air cafe and market; just Rp3000 for a large, cold bir bintang. Laid-back Bruna Beach Bar, next door (south side) to the Kulkul Hotel, features good local bands playing live reggae every night. Usually not that crowded and no cover charge.
     Movies are shown in vast numbers of restaurants and bars all over Kuta and Legian, plus the latest world news, sports, music, and MTV videos. For example, at the Bounty (tel. 0361-754040) on Jl. Legian, movies are shown free every night at 2100, 2300, and 0100. Touts hand out fliers advertising films to be shown on a huge video screen that night, and some establishments even offer free transport for those staying in Kuta or Legian. The sailor-suited wait staff often becomes so absorbed in the movie that service slows to a crawl.
     Dracula's Caberet Restaurant, two km north of Bemo Corner at Jl. Legian 494 (tel. 0361-751790), bills itself as the world's most outrageously funny caberet restaurant, complete with chains and rabbit traps, Igor, the three-foot, two-inch house hangman, a Chamber of Horrors, animated corpses, and over 200 sculptures ranging from tiny spiders to a giant Frankenstein. Feast on a sumptuous four-course meal, guzzle cocktails, and scream at the mad antics of the grotesque staff. Suitable for all ages. Dracula's doors open at 1900, and it turns into a disco after midnight. Bookings are handy.
     One of the latest additions to the night scene is the Bali Rock Cafe (tel. 0361-754466) on Jl. Melasti near the Bali Intan. They boast international cuisine, friendly atmosphere, tranquil garden setting, ice cold imported beer, special meals and prices for children, an international chef, special buffet and party nights, starlight rock and roll dance floor, excellent hygienic standards. Open for lunch everyday at 1130. Lastly, there's a gigantic electronic arcade jammed with people inside the new Matahari Legian Plaza, Jl. Legian just up from the Mastapa Garden Hotel toward Kuta on the left.

SHOPPING

The shops along Jl. Legian in north Legian have more creative, unusual selections of clothes—and more realistic starting prices—than is generally the case in Kuta shops. If you're just starting out shopping, take a walk down Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna. The shops along this street have good selections, fair prices, and some of the best quality wares in the whole Kuta/Legian area—all self-contained on one windy side street. There are also several a/c, upscale shops behind glass windows. Art Collection, Kembang Collection, and Kanuru, are a few worth a look. For tribal Timorese arts and crafts, check out Timor Arts (Jl. Legian Tengah, tel. 0361-756018) and Timor Art Shop (Jl. Legian, tel. 0361-751537).
     Run-of-the-mill clothes are also easy to find. Jalan Melasti, for example, is packed with cheap clothes shops and souvenir stalls selling everything from surfboard covers to batik patchwork quilts, from used books to sunglasses. In the shops where the clothing is actually made, they don't budge. If a dress costs Rp40,000, they might knock Rp5000 off—but don't count on it. You might as well shop in a fixed-price shop like Baik Baik (tel. 0361-751622), opposite the start of Jl. Melasti, which sells print shirts in bold colors, trendy men's pleated pants, and long-sleeved floral batik evening blouses for women incorporating some of the most original and zaniest designs on Bali. Arnold Schwarzenegger is an admirer of Baik Baik shirts and they export a lot of stylish products to Australia.
     Also peruse Mr. Bali (tel. 0361-751232) for designer men's shirts, pleated Euro-pants, and safari shorts. The Kidz Shop, Banjar Legian Klod, specializes in made-to-order kid's clothing. Ni Wayan Kedi does good work. For European designed and sized one-piece and two-piece bathing suits, shirts, shorts, leggings, skirts, and sarongs, check out Climax Swimwear at Jl. Legian 363. All garments are color-coordinated to be mixed and matched. Ceramics and other tasteful items at okay prices can be found at Nacha (tel. 0361-753991) in Legian Kaja 456/490. The best quality, 100% leather articles are sold in the Matahari. Another creative leather workshop, where Mick Jagger shops, is Composition, at Jl. Legian 453 B (tel. 0361-752376). Really wild stuff, incredible belts.
     Alia Jewelry, Jl. Legian Raya 360, is one of only a few shops that deal in elegant Indonesian opals like the very rare lightning Java black opal and the chameleon opal, only available in this country. Alia also sells Indonesian cultured pearls, blue sapphires, rubies, emeralds, topaz, and aquamarines. The main shop (tel. 0361-71102 or 71112, ext. 3348) is in the Bali Hilton in Nusa Dua.
     Sunglasses, hats, jewelry, seashells, and name plates are Zainol Arifin's specialties at Zaz, with two locations on Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna (nos. 9 and 506 in Hotel The Club). Also handmade jewelry made-to-order. Legian has an excellent tape shop, Lotus, Jl. Legian 50 (tel. 0361-751532).
     Leonard Karwelo's Surya Prima Art Shop on Jl. Pura Bagus Teruna deals in traditional ikat and antiques from Sumba, Flores, Timor, and Kalimantan. There are many shops selling very cheap ikat moneybelts and clothes. In fact, you'll fall in love with all the ikat around Legian and will want to go to Flores to see more for yourself. Jalan Tanjung Mekar is the shopping street in the Kuta area for furniture (mostly repros).
     Kerta Book Store, Jl. Legian Tengah (tel. 0361-751001), is probably Legian's best store for new and used books, carrying novels in English and other languages at reasonable prices. On the corner of Jl. Legian and Jl. Benasari, diagonally across from the Mastapa Inn, is another bookshop with the area's largest selection of new books in English, notably the Oxford University Press "Oxford in Asia" series; also stocks English, American, and Australian.

SERVICES

Each of Legian's side streets is an entire community unto itself, with cafes, restaurants, nightclubs, hotels, postal services, and craft shops. A government tourist office is located inside the building about 75 meters down Jl. Benasari on the right. The Loji II Supermarket (tel. 0361-751048) on Jl. Padma Utara is extremely well-stocked with a little bit of everything.
      A branch office of Bank Negara Indonesia (tel. 0361-751573) with safety deposit boxes is on Jl. Legian. Krishna, an outstanding bookshop with disinterested clerks, is diagonally across from the Mastapa Garden Hotel. To develop prints or slides and order enlargements, go to Tia Photo (tel. 0361-751542) on Jl. Padma. Quick service, and they have a branch on Jl. Pura Bagus Taruna (same street as Kuta Palace Hotel).
     Cafe Krakatoa (tel. 0361-752849, fax 752824), on Jl. Legian at the corner of Jl. Gado Gado, is also a business center where one can make international telephone calls, send and receive mail and faxes, type on electric or manual typewriters or computers. They also have a bulletin board.
     Attend Sunday church service with Rev. Ketut Suyaga Ayub, S. Th., the manager of Orchid Garden Cottage (tel. 0361-752852). The Legian Church, on Gang Menuh off Jl. Legian, holds services at 1700. There's a Protestant Church (GKPB), tel. (0361) 224862, down the lane opposite Gang Benasari (west of Mastapa Garden Hotel) with services by Preacher Sudira in English on Sunday at 1000. The Synod of Bali offers a tour; contact Wayan Sudira (tel. 0361-224862).
     The Kuta Fitness Center and Barbell Club (KFC) on Jl. Tunjung Mekar 50 Q (tel. 0361-755448) charges Rp9000 for a one-time workout, Rp46,000 for one week, Rp86,500 for two weeks, Rp121,500 for three weeks, and Rp150,000 per month. Full member dues are Rp100,000. Open everyday 0800-0900 (except holidays). Aerobics programs are offered three days a week. Milano is a very popular traditional massage place opposite Jl. Melasti.
     The Balinese Jamu Traditional Salon in the Kulkul Beach Resort (tel. 0361-752520) does facials, body soaks with flower and spice water, yogurt baths, and three different strengths of oil massages. Open 0900-2100. All treatments use 100% natural jamu products. Another traditional beauty salon, specializing in acne, hair care, and body massage, is the Ratu Ayu (tel. 0361-751660) in the Mastapa Garden Hotel on Jl. Legian. Open 0830-1900.