SHELLS AND TRINKETS

Hole-in-the-middle 100- to 250-year-old Chinese coins (kepeng), with Chinese characters on one side ("Year of the Corn") and Pali script on the other, are ideal for setting, hanging, or for casting I Ching. In Kuta, they cost Rp300 each (in quantity); inland, Rp100 each. In Dutch times, about 700 kepeng could buy one Dutch guilder. Since traders purchased them at 1,400 per Dutch guilder in China, a 100% profit was realized. Since the 17th century, export of coins was so great a drain on Chinese coinage that the Chinese government attempted in vain to stop their export. Literally thousands of bags of these crude bronze or lead coins were shipped from China to Bali, recounted, then put on strings 200 at a time to be used as an island-wide currency.
     Puka shells are small, round, white shells found along the shores of Pacific Basin countries. Look for necklaces with all shells the same size. On Kuta you pay Rp5000 for a small puka necklace, but at the surfers' hangout, Uluwatu's souvenir warung, really long chains sell for as little as Rp2500. Turtle Island (Serangan) sells perhaps Bali's most gorgeous seashells.
     Akar bahar bracelets are in the shape of a serpent. Shape them further with heat, then tie with wire. Or shape them while still wet, then dry in the sun. Polish with ash until smooth and shiny. Some say they have a therapeutic effect, giving relief from rheumatism and arthritis. These seaweed bracelets (actually a sea-tree) grow on your wrist from the heat and perspiration; it lives.
     The bone-and-ivory carving center is in the kampung of Manukaya near Tampaksiring on the main road between Denpasar and Kintamani. But don't believe the vendors if they claim their work is ivory. It's a 98% chance it is bleached, hourglass-shaped, cow thighbone. Ivory, which is imported from Flores, does not have the flat white color of these wares; look for the rhombus effect on real ivory.
     Prices for bone carvings range from Rp3000 to Rp25,000, depending upon their size and intricacy. Ivory and deer horn carving can also be purchased. Full carved tusks run US$600-5000, depending on the size. Ivory figurines (12-15 cm tall) cost Rp200,00-500,000.

Beads
Usually made of glass, beads are also found in stone, clay, bone, ivory, wood, shell, seed, amber, metal, and plastic and come from India, China, the Middle East, and Europe. A note of caution: For hundreds of years beads have been copied, making the task of dating and determining their origin difficult. New glass beads have a rougher surface than old ones which are silky smooth. Also the holes of ancient glass beads tend to be larger and more irregular, and they weigh a lot more than plastic beads.
     A half dozen shops in southern Bali resorts specialize in beadwork. Ishmala Beadworks, Jl. Golden Village I No. 16 (tel. 0361-752401), is in Seminyak, 100 meters past Jl. Dhyana Pura. Open 1000-1600. Also check out David Shop, Jl. Legian Tengah 471 (tel. 0361-752003), which sells strands for around Rp30,000. In "downtown" Legian, H. Shata Shop, Jl. Raya Legian 588, specializes in earrings (three pairs for Rp5000).
     But the best and rarest beads are found in Andung Art, Jl. Legian Kaja 494A (tel. 0361-757710) and Ikat Art, Jl. Bakung Sari 12 (tel. 0361-752684). For opals, don't neglect to visit Bali Opal Centre, Jl. Raya Tuban 2 D (tel. 0361-752761, fax 751930).