The earliest and most remarkable specimen of metallurgy present on Bali
is the famous pre-Hindu bronze kettle gong, the largest of its type in
the world, in the towerlike shrine in the back of Pura Panataran Sasih
in Pejeng. This mysterious hourglass-shaped artifact, nearly two meters
high and adorned with eight stylized heads, survives from Indonesia's Bronze
Age, which began around 300 B.C. It is not clear if the Balinese possessed
the sophistication to forge the gong themselves, or if it was imported
from Indochina.
The Balinese, as recently as the 1950s, excelled
in working precious and semiprecious metals into many more instruments
and accessories than they do today. At one time the coppersmiths and copper
casters of Banjar Budaga (near Klungkung) forged or cast brass bells, incense
holders, and lamps which were used as ritual objects by all classes of
priests. They also fashioned handsome gold and silver plates, vases, knives,
and scissors for cutting sirih. Now, only the ornate rings, bracelets,
earplugs, ear pendants, and flowers for dancers' hair made from hammered
and chiselled gold are still crafted. Nowadays metalworking is a common
occupation, for the most part a craft of souvenir and jewelry makers.
Blacksmiths
Working as the king's armorers and as the vital source of argricultural
tools and metallic musical instruments in pre-industrial Bali, the village
blacksmiths were of very high social standing, free from the confines of
the Hindu caste system. As a sign of deference, even the haughty Brahmanas
were obliged to speak in High Balinese when speaking to a smith in his
workshop. Royalty often made gifts of rice fields to honor smiths in their
service. Blacksmiths had their own temples and burial grounds.
Traditional blacksmiths (pande wesi)—using
bellows, tongs, anvils, charcoal fires from coconut-husks—still can be
found on Bali. To see traditional gamelan instrument makers in action,
visit the workshop of Pak Gabeleran in Blahbatuh where bronze is
forged into xylophonic keys or pots. Ornate instrument stands are carved
here as well. Tihingan village, five km north of the main Gianyar-Klungkung
road, is another instrument-making center. Balinese musicians from all
over the island come to these foundries to buy their musical instruments.
The art of stained-glass and iron-mongering
is kept alive by Mondirama in Padangtegal just before Ubud (if coming
from Peliatan). Dolf, the owner, designs all his own glass and iron pieces.
The glass manufactured at the shop is burned (oxidized) to achieve 130
colors. This method was used in medieval times. Artisans who restore European
cathedrals have to use this method to match the ancient colors. Mondirama
is the only factory of its kind in Indonesia. There's another one in Bandung,
but they import glass from the U.S., which makes their products expensive.
One of the largest and most complete stores
for bronze decorative objects in Indonesia is the Golden Buffalo House
of Bronze, on Monkey Forest Road in Ubud, tel. (0361) 96328, fax 752013,
and at Jl. Legian Tengah 412 in Kuta, tel. (0361) 755936, fax 752013. They
can create any kind of motif by designing a piece after one in their catalog
or by creating a sample.