LANGUAGE

Most young Balinese speak at least three languages fluently. Among themselves they speak ordinary Balinese, a difficult tongue which few Westerners ever master. To strangers and in the presence of Brahmana they converse in high Balinese. Nearly all the Balinese speak the official national language of Indonesia, Bahasa Indonesia, a language similar to Malay.
     American-style English is the most widely spoken foreign language on Bali, particularly by those involved in the tourist industry. There are proportionally more English-speakers on Bali than in anywhere else in Indonesia.
     You can in fact embarrass an Indonesian working in an international-class hotel by failing to address him in English, thereby implying he lacks necessary language skills. An increasing number of Balinese tourist guides, travel agents, and hotel staff also speak rudimentary French, Italian, Spanish, Dutch, or German.
     Although contemporary Balinese is written in Roman letters, the cleft-like characters of the traditional alphabet are related to Sanskrit-derived Kawi of Central Java. Balinese is a very difficult language to master because of its many subtle pronunciations. Serious students of the language should obtain A Basic Balinese Vocabulary and the handy Bali Pocket Dictionary, both compiled by Rev. N. Shadeg, S.V.D. The Kamus Bahasa Bali Bali-Indonesia and Indonesia-Bali dictionary by Sri Reshi Anandakusuma is available in Bali for around Rp10,000.
 

THE BALINESE LANGUAGE

A mixture of both Austronesian/Polynesian and Sanskrit vocabularies and phrases, Balinese is essentially a spoken language without as many fixed rules of grammar and syntax as Western languages. Until the 20th century, Balinese was written only in the Javanese script, although today it is related more directly to the languages of eastem Indonesia (Sumbawa and the Sasaks of Lombok) than it is to Javanese. Balinese has three speech levels: High Balinese is the polite form or court language, Middle Balinese is used when caste is not stressed but deference is still desired, and Low Balinese is the vernacular spoken by the common people. When Balinese first meet, they will initially talk in High Balinese, then during the conversation the speech level is adjusted to coincide with the rank and caste of the people talking. If he starts his conversation in Low Balinese and finds out later that the person being addressed is of a higher caste, it will cause a Balinese acute embarrassment. If a teacher wants to discipline a troublesome student who is the descendant of a prince, she must scold him in the High Language. A low-caste government official speaking to a high-caste friend selling dance tickets uses polite Balinese.
Balinese
There are four different Balinese languages, each used by a distinct social class, each with a vocabulary of its own. Although each level shares numerous common nouns, many verbs referring to human activities and nouns designating human body parts differ.
     The language of the Sudra caste is of ancient Malayo-Austronesian-Polynesian origin, utilizing many vernacular words from the aboriginal dialects of the eastern islands, particularly Lombok and Sumbawa. This coarse, low Balinese is the oldest language on the island; traces can still be found on the isolated island of Nusa Penida.
     The high Balinese dialects of the Triwangsa classes are largely Javanese in origin, using a great many Sanskrit words derived from the court languages spoken widely on Java from the 10th century. This highly refined sub-language (basa alus) of about 1,000 words consists almost entirely of honorific levels of speech. Reflecting the rigid Hindu caste system once in force here, another form, basa singgih, is used when speaking to high priests or when alluding to sacred objects or ceremonies.
     A person of lower caste must use a posh high language-basa madia, the "Language of Courtesy"-when speaking to a member of a higher caste, although today not many Sudra are conversant in this high Balinese. The lower caste individual should, in turn, be replied to in low Balinese basa sor, the rough everyday tongue spoken in the marketplace. If a conversation begins in low Balinese and one later finds that the person addressed is of higher caste, acute embarrasment can occur. This is why Balinese initiate a conversation in the highest form of Balinese when speaking to strangers whose caste they do not know. In time, a Balinese will ask "Where do you sit?" (i.e., "What is your caste?") so s/he can adjust to the level of speech appropriate to the rank of the person addressed.
     Common Balinese (basa lumrah) is used when speaking to people of the same level, as well as friends and family. There is also a sacred Sanskrit vocabulary employed only by high Balinese priests in their rituals, mantras, and formulas, as well as other vocabularies used in anger, to insult someone, or when referring to animals.

BAHASA INDONESIA

Such is the diversity of tongues in Indonesia (200 indigenous speech forms, each with its own regional dialect) that often the inhabitants of the same island don't speak the same native language. On the tiny island of Alor there are some 70 dialects, on Sulawesi 62 languages have been identified, and Irian Jaya is home to an astounding 10% of the world's languages.
     One language, Bahasa Indonesia, is taught in all schools to all students from age five; it's estimated about 70% of Indonesia's population is literate in Bahasa Indonesia. This language is the only cultural element unifying the entire ethnically splintered population.
     First used as a political tool in 1927 with the cry "One Nation, One Country, One Language," it's the only language used in radio and TV broadcasting, in official and popular publications, in advertisements, and on traffic signs. Taught in Balinese schools, Indonesian is widely spoken by the educated, in government offices, and in communities with mixed ethnic groups. All films shown in Indonesia are required by law to be dubbed in standardized, modern Indonesian.
     Most of the country's regional languages change forms and endings to show deference to the person addressed, but Bahasa Indonesia does not. Thus, Indonesian has been a powerful force for the democratization and unification of the myriad races and classes of Indonesia. Together with the decline of the caste system, Bahasa Indonesia language works to increasingly blur the formerly distinct levels of Balinese speech.
 

TEN POINTERS FOR LEARNING BAHASA INDONESIA

1) First learn the number, time, and calendar Systems, and how to spell your name in Indonesian. Mastering these will spare you frustration and save you money. Next, leam how to greet people. The formality of welcoming people is of paramount importance to Balinese. Also master the forms of polite speech, a social skill carrying much weight in Bali.

2) Avoid Balinese who try to speak to you in English. They are your most formidable obstacle to learning Indonesian. The fastest way to learn another language is never to speak your own.

3) Concentrate at first on just listening and speaking. It takes only a few weeks to leam the sound system properly. You must hear Indonesian spoken and speak it every chance you get. Listen and constantly repeat words and phrases, impressing them on your memory. Take the word menandatangani, a bit of a stumbler, meaning "to sign something." Have Indonesians teach you how to pronounce it. The more times you use it, the quicker you'll leam to pronounce it correctly and the quicker it will become a part of your vocabulary. Only after you've learned the pronunciation should you take on written language.

4) Don't worry about making grammatical errors or common mistakes. Self-consciousness is a big block to learning. You have to make mistakes to learn. Children are quite willing to be wrong and that's why they're able to learn a foreign language so quickly. They don't care if speech comes out grammatically correct. Speaking "perfect" Indonesian is of little concern to the Balinese, who will always give you the benefit of the doubt. And you still get points for trying!

5) Although at first you may not have a substantial vocabulary, try to use the words you do know skillfully. You'll be flabbergasted at what you can say with a vocabulary of only 200 or so words. It seems you can get along for weeks with just variations of makan, tidur; mandi, terlambat, sebentar lagi, sekarang, belum, and sudah (eat, sleep, wash, too late, in a little while, now, already, and not yet). Infinite combinations of sentences are possible! After one month of diligent work you'll be speaking the pasar melayu or market talk-all you'll need for bargaining, getting around, and meeting and relating to people.

6) After awhile you'll reach a point where you actually speak without having to stop and think. The plateau you want to reach is to ask questions in Indonesian and quickly integrate the answers. The most important phrases toward this end are "What is this called in Indonesian?" ("Apa namanya mi di Bahasa Indonesia?") and "How do you say this in Indonesian?" ("Bagaimana anda menyebutnya?")

7) Warung, bus stops, markets, kiosks, and offices are the best classrooms in the land. While waiting for a friend, a bus, a wayang show or movie to begin, or for a shop or restaurant to open, head toward any foodstall or group of bystanders and start up a conversation. Educated Indonesians in any gathering will make themselves known, and they delight in teaching you. You'll find them very patient, repeating and writing words out, teaching you sayings and idioms, and breaking sentences down for you. Indonesians are also very encouraging, crying "Wah, pintar sekali!" ("Wow, very smart!") the moment you utter just a few intelligible words. These daily, regular Indonesian lessons with the people are the equal of a US$1500 Berlitz Total Immersion Course.

8) For a reference book and vocabulary builder, all you really need is a good dictionary. Never go anywhere without it and never stop asking questions. Usten to the radio and TV, translate songs, labels, posters, signs, newspapers, tickets, and hand-outs.

9) Force yourself to speak in complete sentences. Don't be lazy and speak pidgin Indonesian! Start out with a proper opening and always include a subject, object, predicate. Speak whole phrases, not expletives or one or two word sentences. This will result in a more polished use of the language.

10) If you are determined to learn Balinese, use Bahasa Indonesia as your learning medium. Always ask for the Indonesian-not the English-when questioning a Balinese word.
Characteristics of Bahasa Indonesia
Although Indonesian derives from Old Malay, a trader's language used throughout the archipelago since at least the 12th century, the proliferation of acronyms and infusion of foreign words makes Indonesian reading material barely comprehensible to Malaysians, though known for the economy of its vocabulary and for its simple, even child-like phrases. Bahasa Indonesia is actually an elaborate, subtle, and ambiguous speech form for expressing complex thought.
     Initially, this nontonal language is sublimely easy to learn. It's written in the familiar Roman alphabet, words are pronounced the way they're spelled, the morphology is simple. Nouns and verbs lack cases, genders, declensions, confusing conjugations, not even the verb "to be." Perhaps the most difficult aspect of the language is its use of prefixes and affixes to turn roots into nouns and verbs.
     Indonesian is a poetic language. Matahari means sun, or literally "eye of the day"; rumput laut means "sea hair" or seaweed; merah muda, for pink translates literally as "young red." It's also very picturesque-bunga uang means bank interest, from bunga for flower and uang for money; seperti cari ketiak ular (searching for the armpit of a snake) means looking for something that is nonexistent or impossible to find. Words you may have already run across include amok (blind terror), sarong (the Malay skirt), and bambu (bamboo).
     Indonesian has a tremendous amount of dialectical variation, and each ethnic group speaks its own accented form. The Javanese speak it very slowly and monotonously, the Sundanese use a singsong manner, while the Irianese employ an archaic form taught by missionaries. All dialects are mutually intelligible.

LEARNING INDONESIAN

Learning Indonesian is the miracle drug that helps minimize culture shock, enabling you to settle into Bali more quickly. Using a phrasebook is alright, as long as you realize you're not really using the language. You're simply holding up verbal signs "Where is the toilet?" God forbid you get back an answer not in the phrasebook. In truth, the most important sentence in the phrasebook is "I don't speak the language." Then you can ask your questions. If you don't profess your ignorance, you're likely to receive an outpouring of verbiage impossible to comprehend. To really learn the language requires six months of intensive work.
     On Bali many Balinese in regular contact with tourists obligingly speak an abbreviated, simplified, form of Indonesian, a sort of "Tourist Indonesian" involving much gesticulating and use of body language. Listeners sensitive to your very limited vocabulary and struggles to find the right word will begin to use the same words as you, accommodating you by adopting your method of expression.

Dictionaries
The best dictionary for the truly serious Indonesianist is the brilliantly compiled An Indonesian-English Dictionary. Covering modern Indonesian in its entirety, this dictionary has become the standard work used by English speakers since the first edition was published in 1961. The companion volume is the 660-page An English-Indonesian Dictionary. Both available from Cornell University Press, Ithaca, NY, tel. (607) 277-2338. Another useful dictionary is Contemporary Indonesian Dictionary by A. Ed. Schmidgall-Tellings and Alan M. Stevens, specifically listing words not provided in the E & S tomes. Softcover versions of all three dictionaries are available in Indonesia for around Rp50,000.
     The best available pocket dictionary is Selected Indonesian Vocabulary for the Foreign Executive by Helen and Russel Johnson, which lists the root word in alphabetical order according to prefix. A pocket-size dictionary available in North America is Van Goor's Concise Indonesian Dictionary, English-Indonesian and Indonesian-English by A.L.N. Kramer Sr. Order from Charles E. Tuttle Co., Box 410, Rutland, VT 05701-0410, tel. (802) 773-8930; ask when the new edition is due.
     Also beginning to appear in Indonesia are handheld pocket-sized electronic dictionaries; type in an Indonesian word and immediately the English translation of the word is displayed. It's got a Japanese brand name, Wiz, and it costs around Rp190,000.

Phrasebooks
If staying for a month or less, a good phrasebook will serve you well. Allegedly designed with the traveler in mind, the handy, bilingual (though it doesn't contain "truck") Periplus Pocket Dictionary has 2,000 Indonesian words most commonly used in asking directions, bargaining, simple conversation, and other everyday situations. Brief spelling and pronunciation guide included.
     Everyday Indonesian: A Basic Introduction to the Indonesian Language & Culture by Thomas Oey contains relatively new written and spoken words and phrases divided into the usual phrasebook categories. Very helpful and widely available on Bali.
     A very competent phrasebook available only in the U.S. is Say It In Indonesian by John Wolff. Order it from Dover Publications, 31 E. 2nd St., Mineola, NY 11501, tel. (516) 294-7000. Compiled by a professional linguist; very thorough. A slightly less expensive alternative is Indonesia Phrasebook by Lonely Planet Publications. Memorizing this little booklet will serve you well for a 30 days or less stay. Also try the Bahasa Indonesia section in the back of this guide.

Books and Magazines
Children's school readers, available in bookshops all over Bali for Rp1200-2500, are well suited for foreigners. The Indonesian is idiomatic and has everyday applications; they also contain valuable information about Indonesian culture and history. Some you can almost read by following the pictures.
     A cheap, endlessly reprinted, and competent study book available in bookstores and tourist kiosks all over Bali is A.M. Almatsier's How to Master the Indonesian Language. Almatsier's The Easy Way to Master the Indonesian Language costs Rp8000, and is just as widely available. This book provides a step-by-step method of learning Indonesian, designed especially for the long-term resident. Chapters cover everyday situations frequently encountered-Basic Colloquial Expressions, To the Supermarket, Sports, and the like.
     The Indonesian language courses at U.C. Berkeley use the classic Beginning Indonesian Through Self Instruction by John U. Wolff, Dede Oetomo, and Daniel Fietkeiwicz. Indonesian: A Complete Course for Beginner by J.B. Kwee is a difficult course but one that will provide you with a sound working knowledge of formal spoken and written Indonesian. Bahasa Indonesia: Introduction to the Indonesian Language and Culture by Yohanni Johns is a standard introductory text used in universities around the world. This excellent, in-depth, two-volume set is completely self-contained, providing clear explanations of basic grammar. Extensive notes on usage and etiquette.
     The intelligently produced school reader Pelangi is an excellent resource to learn intermediate-level Indonesian. Order the magazine through USQ Press, Box 58, Darling Heights 4350, Toowoomba, tel. (076) 31-2852, fax 31-1758.

Indonesian Language Tapes and CDs
"Language/30 Indonesian" tapes provide an excellent introductory, self-taught language program which will put you in tune with the language in about six hours. Based on a U.S. Army speed learning method, this concise course stresses only conversationally useful words and phrases. Two cassettes of guided greetings, introductions, requests, and general conversation for use at hotels, restaurants, businesses, and entertainment venues, using only natives speaking flawless Indonesian. Contact Educational Services Corp., 1725 K St. NW, no. 408, Washington, D.C. 20006, tel. (202) 298-8424.
     The standard tapes for audio Indonesian language training in the English-speaking world are "Indonesian Conversations" and "Beginning Indonesian Through Self-Instruction," an extensive set of 60-minute study tapes duplicated from professionally recorded masters. This expensive course (US$441 for the complete 83-tape set) is accompanied by text supplementing the oral training. To order, call Tape Sales, Rm Gll Noyes Lodge, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY 14853, tel. (607) 255-3827.
     Based on their phrasebook, Lonely Planet's "Indonesian CD Audio Pack" records an Australian couple's travels from Australia to Indonesia. The approach is unique because the CD program takes you through a number of real life situations.

Language Programs
A program offering individual and group instruction is located on Bali at the Centre for Foreign Languages (SUA Bali) in Kemenuh, seven km from Ubud. Dra. I.A.A. Mas and other skilled instructors are fluent in German, English, and Dutch. The standard fee for a two-week intensive course, including accommodations, is US$650. Offering a variety of opportunities for foreign visitors to learn elementary or advanced Indonesian in a village setting, individual courses can also be designed for specific needs.
     One of Bali's leading language learning schools is IALF Bali Language Centre, Jl. Kapten Agung 19, Denpasar, tel. (0361) 221782, 221785, or 225243, offering accelerated learning programs five evenings a week for four weeks. Call for an appointment for an individual placement test. The Bali Language Training & Cultural Centre in the Mastapa Garden Hotel, Jl. Legian 139, Kuta (tel. 0361-751660, fax 755098, or write P.O. Box 3013, Denpasar), presents regular 12-week or intensive four-week Indonesian language classes that cost US$515. Tea breaks with Balinese cakes, free cultural excursion, special menus for BLTC students, open-air classrooms. The school is located in one of the nicest family-run hotels in Bali, a Garden of Eden in the Fires of Hell.

BODY LANGUAGE

Such aggressive gestures and postures as crossing your arms over your chest or standing with your hands on your hips while talking, particularly in front of older people, are regarded as insulting. These are the traditional postures of defiance and anger in wayang theater.
     Anger is not shown openly. Loud voices are particularly offensive. In their efforts to make themselves understood, many Westerners speak with exaggerated slowness, raise their voices, or wave their arms about. To Balinese all these gestures may convey anger. The more important and vehement the subject under discussion, the quieter a Balinese is likely to become.
     The feet are considered the lowliest part of the body, and it's offensive to sit with the soles of your feet pointing at people. It's also impolite to use your toes or the tip of your shoe for pointing, as when indicating something displayed on the ground in the pasar.
     To beckon someone with a crooked index finger is rude. If you need to call to someone-e.g., a passing taxi driver-extend your right hand and make a motion using the cupped fingers turned downward. Neither should you point with your forefinger; instead use your right thumb for pointing.
     Since Asians consider the left hand unclean, never use it to touch someone or to give and receive things. If you should use your left hand, say "Ma'af" ("Excuse me"). When giving or receiving something from someone older, or in a high office or elevated status, extend your right arm (but not too far), bring your left arm across the front of your body, then touch your fingers to your right elbow. When passing in front of an elder or high-born person, or person of equal rank whom you don't know, bend your body slightly, particularly if that person is sitting. Avoid blowing your nose into a handkerchief (especially loudly). Make a point of asking a guest to eat or drink when food is served since he will wait until you verbally offer it by saying "Silahkan" ("Please"). Conversely, it's polite to wait until you are given permission before you eat or drink.