THE "INCREDIBLE
BUSYNESS" OF BALI, in Margaret Mead's apt phrase, produces an endless stream
of festivals, anniversaries, celebrations, dances, dramas, and offerings.
And none of these myriad events takes place without an auspicious date
first being picked for it. There are good days - dewasa luwung - and bad
days - dewasa jelek - for doing any of these things. Even seemingly ordinary
activities, such as chopping wood or building a house, can only be undertaken
when the day is right. And keeping track of all these good and bad, proper
and dangerous dates are no less than three independent calendar systems.In
Bali, two very different systems are overlaid on the familiar Western calendar
-the 210-day Pawukon calendar, and the Saka lunar calendar.
Pawukon
calendar
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TRIWARA (3-day week) | PANCAWARA (5-day week) | SAPTAWARA (7-day week) |
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SAPTAWARA DAY | PANCAWARA DAY | CONJUNCTION DAY |
Buda
Saniscara Buda Anggara Redite |
Keliwon
Keliwon Wage Keliwon Keliwon |
no special name
Tumpek Buda Cemeng Anggara Kasih Pengembang |
Tumpek
Tumpek is one of the most interesting of the coincidence dates. As mentioned above, Tumpek occurs six times in every Pawukon and each of these dates is separately important. Tumpek
Landep
Tumpek
Uduh
The third Tumpek is the most important, partially because it is also a Kajeng Keliwon and partly because it marks the end of the most important of the regular religious ceremonies, called Galungan. Tumpek
Kuningan
Tumpek
Krulut
Tumpek
Kandang
Tumpek
Wayang
GALUNGAN DAYS. The ten days between Wednesday of Dunggulan, the 11th week, and Saturday of Kuningan, the 12th week, are a period called Galungan, or the Galungan Days, starring on the day Galungan and ending on the day Kuningan. During this period the most important regular reli-gious celebration in the Pawukon cycle is held. The deified ancestors of the family descend to their former homes during Galangan, and they must be entertained, and welcomed with prayers and offerings. Families with deceased relatives who are buried and have not yet been cremated thus not yet deified must make offerings at the graves. Everyone gets to work. Penjors, long bamboo poles hung with offerings, are erected everywhere. The tops of the penjors arching over the narrow roads look for all the world like the top of a gothic cathedral. Commerce practically ceases during the Galungan Days. Schools are closed, and the normal life of the village concentrates exclusively upon the events sur-rounding this very sacred period. On the Sunday before Galungan, called Penyekeban, from sekeb, "to cover up," green bananas are sealed in huge clay pots upon which a small coconut husk fire burns. Lots of bananas are required for Galungan offerings, and this heat treatment ripens them quickly. The next day, Penyajaan, is devoted to making the many colored cakes of fried rice dough, jaja, that are so loved by the Balinese and used in many ceremonies as offerings. The village markets are flill of jaja of every description in case a busy housewife has no time to make them herself. On the day before Galungan, called Penampahan - from nampab, "to slaugh-ter an animal" - pigs or turtles are killed for the traditional Galungan morning feasts. Featured at these feasts is the traditional lawar, a spicy hash made of lihely ground turtle meat or pork and dozens of spices. Five differ-ent kinds of hash are prepared, as are sticks of sate'. Galungan day is a time for prayer, family get-togethers, and offerings. Almost no work is accomplished between then and Kburigan day. The day after Galungan - called Manis Galungan because it falls on the day Umanis of the five-day week - is a time for visiring friends, and the roads are jammed with cars and motorcycles. Kuningan marks the end of the Galungan celebration. It is a time f6r family groups, prayers, and still more offerings, as the ancestors return to heaven. (Actually this return is sup-posed to be five days alter Galungan, and the arrival of the ancestors is five days before Galungan, but not many people know that, and it really makes little difference.) The day alter Kuningan is usually called Manis Kuningan (even though it falls in the next week, Langkir), and is a time for a holiday, visiting, and flin. There are two interpretations of the three Sugian days. Some people accept both. Many know of neither. One is that this period is symbolic of the Mayadenawa story (See CHAPTER 4). Sugian Tenten, from enten remember," or "wake up," should bring to mind the triumph df adharma Kajeng
Kliwon
Lunar
Calendar
PAWUKON BEGINNING/END CELEBRATION. The end and beginning of the current Pawukon cycle is punctuated with ceremony, although the celebration is not as grand as Galungan. The very last day of the Pawukon, Saturday of the 30th week, Watugunung, is a special day for Saraswati, goddess of learning and wife of Brahma. Her festival day is a time for making offerings for books, especially the sacred lontar palm leaf books. All books are the subject of devotion on this day. One is not supposed to read on Hari Raya Saraswati, however. Schools have special ceremonies, and students jam the big temple, Pura Jagat Natha, in Denpasar, for a special early-morning ceremony in wluch they pray for success in their studies. The next four days, the first four of the new Pawukon cycle, are special religious days. They are most fervently celebrated in North Bali, where some people put up penjors just as for Galungan, and where special offerings are made for the uncremated dead in the cemeteries. The climax of these four days is on Wednesday of the first week of the Pawukon, a day called Pagerwesi, coming from two words meaning "iron fence." The suggestion is that one should surround oneself with a strong fortification against the forces of evil. Pagerwesi is also a day upon which an ancient battle between good and evil is celebrated. The three days preceding Pagerwesi have special names and are for special activities. Sunday, the first day of the Pawukon, is called Banyu Penaruh. Many people who live near the sea go to the beach at dawn and symbolically puri themselves by bathing. This is a special day for fishermen, who make offerings for their boats and nets. Monday is called Comaribek, a day that is not widely cele-brated. Tuesday is Sabuh-Emas, when one is supposed to make offerings for jewelry, especially that of gold, and for the Chinese coins that are often used in offerings. ANNIVERSARIES. Many Balinese anniversaries are observed according to the Pawukon cycle. The Balinese refer to a period of five seven-day weeks as one month. There are no "months" on the Pawukon calendar, but a division of the 210 days into six 35-day periods conveniently approxirnates the lunar month of a little over 29 days. The first really big ceremony for a newborn child occurs after three of these "months," or 105 days. The ceremony is called ngelubulanin, from telu, "three," and bulan, "month." A child's first birthday, called an oton, takes place six "months" after birth. At this ceremony the baby is allowed to touch the ground for the first time. The Balinese consider it base for a baby to crawl around on the ground, animal-like, so young babies are always carried. When they touch the ground at their oton) a colorfiil ceremony is held. In some areas they are covered by a cage like those used for fighting cocks. In fishing areas a circular throwing net is flung over mother and child. Lots of offerings are made, and many prayers are said for the health and wealth of the baby. From this oton comes the oft-heard saying that a Balinese has two "birthdays" a year. He doesn't really. Many people do celebrate their otons after growing up, but it is a rather private affair, with only prayers and an offering. And it doesn't come twice a year, but rather once every Pawukon cycle - six Balinese "months," or 210 days. Often the calendar date of a birthday is forgotten. It is only the Pawukon date and the year that is remembered. For example, my friend Budi knows that he was born in 1953 on Redite-Menail - Sunday of the 23d week. |